Wrangler coming out of storage--what to do? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
WranglerTom
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Wrangler coming out of storage--what to do?

I stored my Wrangler for the winter last October, and this is is the first chance I've had to get it out for the summer. Before putting it away, I changed the oil, added some Sta-Bil to a full tank of gas, and put it in the garage. Because the garage is close to the furnace the temp in the garage never drops below 45 degrees F all winter.

Here's what I need to know--what do I need to do to get it ready to drive? I've heard of pulling the spark plugs and putting some oil in the cylinders to lube them up. Do I need to do this? What about changing the oil again? Anything else?

Usually I try to start it once a month or so but this winter I couldn't find the time to do it. I'm afraid if I just start it the way it is I may do some damage to the engine. I plan on keeping this Jeep for a very long time and want to do everything I can to make sure it runs forever.

So help me out--it's June and I want to drive!

Thanks!


2005 Wrangler Unlimited
4.0L, 6-Speed, D30/D44 axles with 3.73s
OME 2.5" lift, JKS adjustable track bars, Currie Anti-Rock
Jeeperman front and rear bumpers, ORO taillights
Skid Row steering and engine skids
AEV Bridger wheels and Toyo Open Country M/T tires--much more to come!
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 08:08 PM
GSSFC
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Just start it, these aren't 70's vehicles! Put fresh gas in as soon as possible, change the oil and enjoy it.

Tim
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 08:26 PM
Thunderstrike
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Would be nice to lubricate engine with oil before starting it. Otherwise I can't think of anything. Should start OKAY after battery charge.

2009 JK Rubicon (Former Daily Driver); 2014 VW Jetta GLI Autobahn w NAV.
Auto, Power, Remote Start, Towing Package, MyGig Navigation with Lockpick, Rear View Camera, B&M 70268 Transmission Cooler, Aeroforce Interceptor, Valentine 1, Tub Sound-Deadened with Raamat and Ensolite, Hard Top Heat Insulated with 1/2" Styrofoam Insulation, Bilstein Shocks Front & Rear, PIAA Dual Horns, IPF 920H4 Headlights.
Protection: Skid Row Engine Skid, Lower Control Arm skid & Evaporator Skid; Rock Hard Gas Tank Skid; Warn Stainless Steel Differential Skid Front & Rear.
Recovery Gear: Warn 9.5Ti Winch, 11,000# Pull-Pal.
Communication: Uniden 520XL CB, Diesel External Speaker, 3' FireStik Whip.
Shrockworks Mid-width Front Bumper with Warn 9.5Ti Winch -- Ordered 7/17/2009; Bumper Received 12/4/2009.
1" Coil Spacer Front & 1/2" Coil Spacer Rear restored OEM Rake.
4x4 Trips:
Moab - 4/2006, 5/2008, 4/2009, 5/2011, 4/2013
Ouray - 8/2007
Rubicon - 9/2008
Gone, but not forgotten: 2004 TJ, 1999 Audi A4, 1992 VW Jetta GL 5 Speed
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
WranglerTom
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How can I lubricate the engine with oil before sarting it? Do I have to pull the plugs and dump oil down the cylinders or is there a better (easier) way?

2005 Wrangler Unlimited
4.0L, 6-Speed, D30/D44 axles with 3.73s
OME 2.5" lift, JKS adjustable track bars, Currie Anti-Rock
Jeeperman front and rear bumpers, ORO taillights
Skid Row steering and engine skids
AEV Bridger wheels and Toyo Open Country M/T tires--much more to come!
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 08:30 PM
Thunderstrike
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I've heard you can disconnect ignition source and crank engines for short durations. I've heard during this engine cranking oil pump pumps oil. Can any I-6 4.0L engine expert charm in on this?

The logic here is during slow engine cranking the damage is less when compare to a full engine start up. My wife's car for instance gets driven once every 2 months, and I can hear dry engine valve taps during start up. I think one should avoid this.

2009 JK Rubicon (Former Daily Driver); 2014 VW Jetta GLI Autobahn w NAV.
Auto, Power, Remote Start, Towing Package, MyGig Navigation with Lockpick, Rear View Camera, B&M 70268 Transmission Cooler, Aeroforce Interceptor, Valentine 1, Tub Sound-Deadened with Raamat and Ensolite, Hard Top Heat Insulated with 1/2" Styrofoam Insulation, Bilstein Shocks Front & Rear, PIAA Dual Horns, IPF 920H4 Headlights.
Protection: Skid Row Engine Skid, Lower Control Arm skid & Evaporator Skid; Rock Hard Gas Tank Skid; Warn Stainless Steel Differential Skid Front & Rear.
Recovery Gear: Warn 9.5Ti Winch, 11,000# Pull-Pal.
Communication: Uniden 520XL CB, Diesel External Speaker, 3' FireStik Whip.
Shrockworks Mid-width Front Bumper with Warn 9.5Ti Winch -- Ordered 7/17/2009; Bumper Received 12/4/2009.
1" Coil Spacer Front & 1/2" Coil Spacer Rear restored OEM Rake.
4x4 Trips:
Moab - 4/2006, 5/2008, 4/2009, 5/2011, 4/2013
Ouray - 8/2007
Rubicon - 9/2008
Gone, but not forgotten: 2004 TJ, 1999 Audi A4, 1992 VW Jetta GL 5 Speed
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 10:40 PM
GSSFC
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You will not get oil pressure without sufficient cranking. I think it would be better to start it and get good oil pressure than bump starting it. Again I don't think it makes much difference. If it was me it would be started without worry. I have had vehicles sit for months and started them without a second thought.

Tim
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-18-2008, 12:32 AM
LJameson
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I'm not too sure about this, but it might be worth a shot. Maybe try draining the oil, and putting it back in. that way you can get some oil up in the heads before it starts. Maybe if your going that far, you can just do an oil change. Just something I thought of in a few minutes. Cant hurt to try right?

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post #8 of 13 Old 06-18-2008, 06:15 AM
jchappy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7 View Post
I'm not too sure about this, but it might be worth a shot. Maybe try draining the oil, and putting it back in. that way you can get some oil up in the heads before it starts. Maybe if your going that far, you can just do an oil change. Just something I thought of in a few minutes. Cant hurt to try right?
I would do this ^^^^^ if your really worried about it but if it were me i would just start it and keep an eye on the oil pressure for a min. i would also run it through a heat cycle be for you drive it and make sure everything still works
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-18-2008, 04:57 PM
Thunderstrike
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You figured at least 3-5 seconds of dry running after a start up, so it may not be that bad.

2009 JK Rubicon (Former Daily Driver); 2014 VW Jetta GLI Autobahn w NAV.
Auto, Power, Remote Start, Towing Package, MyGig Navigation with Lockpick, Rear View Camera, B&M 70268 Transmission Cooler, Aeroforce Interceptor, Valentine 1, Tub Sound-Deadened with Raamat and Ensolite, Hard Top Heat Insulated with 1/2" Styrofoam Insulation, Bilstein Shocks Front & Rear, PIAA Dual Horns, IPF 920H4 Headlights.
Protection: Skid Row Engine Skid, Lower Control Arm skid & Evaporator Skid; Rock Hard Gas Tank Skid; Warn Stainless Steel Differential Skid Front & Rear.
Recovery Gear: Warn 9.5Ti Winch, 11,000# Pull-Pal.
Communication: Uniden 520XL CB, Diesel External Speaker, 3' FireStik Whip.
Shrockworks Mid-width Front Bumper with Warn 9.5Ti Winch -- Ordered 7/17/2009; Bumper Received 12/4/2009.
1" Coil Spacer Front & 1/2" Coil Spacer Rear restored OEM Rake.
4x4 Trips:
Moab - 4/2006, 5/2008, 4/2009, 5/2011, 4/2013
Ouray - 8/2007
Rubicon - 9/2008
Gone, but not forgotten: 2004 TJ, 1999 Audi A4, 1992 VW Jetta GL 5 Speed
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-19-2008, 04:34 PM
Slugger
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I wouldn't worry too much about an oil change before startup,but maybe after a few cycles of heating and cooling down of the engine.Also I would roll it out of the garage to start for the first time,who knows what sort of critters might have wintered over in it as well.
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-19-2008, 05:16 PM
dmadzia
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Everyone is waaaay over-ANALyzing this. You did the winterization correctly - (changed the oil, add fuel stabilizer and put her away). Now, just charge the battery, start it up, let it sit (idle) for about 5 minutes, then GO!
Us northerners do this every year with RV's exactly the same way. Have done it that way for years.
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-19-2008, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
WranglerTom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmadzia View Post
Everyone is waaaay over-ANALyzing this. You did the winterization correctly - (changed the oil, add fuel stabilizer and put her away). Now, just charge the battery, start it up, let it sit (idle) for about 5 minutes, then GO!
Us northerners do this every year with RV's exactly the same way. Have done it that way for years.
I tried to do everything correct as to eliminate any problems at startup. But the plan was to store it for four months, not eight like it has been. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't going to do any engine damage because I plan on keeping this rig for a very long time.

2005 Wrangler Unlimited
4.0L, 6-Speed, D30/D44 axles with 3.73s
OME 2.5" lift, JKS adjustable track bars, Currie Anti-Rock
Jeeperman front and rear bumpers, ORO taillights
Skid Row steering and engine skids
AEV Bridger wheels and Toyo Open Country M/T tires--much more to come!
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-19-2008, 08:55 PM
Rayvins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WranglerTom View Post
I tried to do everything correct as to eliminate any problems at startup. But the plan was to store it for four months, not eight like it has been. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't going to do any engine damage because I plan on keeping this rig for a very long time.

Sorry to hear it has been sitting for so long
Glad to hear you are getting it back out
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