[jbak]

So I'd like some input on not doing a suspension lift at all. I want to build a tj that would mostly stay on the road but be able to handle some light-to-moderate offroading now and then. So I thought of just getting an AEV highline kit (with bodytrim), a 1.25" bodylift by jks, just to comfortably run 35" tires, and a tummy tuck. This would let me increase the clearance by quite a bit while keeping the jeep basically stock, no impact on driving dynamics. Do you think this would work? Will I need to regear to 4.56 or do any other changes to run 35s? any other thoughts?

[Imped]

Fill out your profile. And sure, that will work fine. But you also need to upgrade brakes, steering, and gears or you'll hate it.

[BlueRubiconrich]

We need to know what you are driving? TJ, JK?
You can run a bigger tire on a non litted JK then you can on a non lifted TJ.

Gear's: Need more info: Dana 30 front or 44?
Dana 35 rear or Dana 44 rear? You should add locker if you are doing gears.
Don't spend a dine on any Dana 35 upgrade toss it! go with a Dana 44 or 8.8.

[never monday]

Originally Posted by BlueRubiconrich

Don't spend a dine on any Dana 35 upgrade toss it! go with a Dana 44 or 8.8.

for the OP

Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above

[Imped]

Originally Posted by BlueRubiconrich

We need to know what you are driving? TJ, JK?
You can run a bigger tire on a non litted JK then you can on a non lifted TJ.

Gear's: Need more info: Dana 30 front or 44?
Dana 35 rear or Dana 44 rear? You should add locker if you are doing gears.
Don't spend a dine on any Dana 35 upgrade toss it! go with a Dana 44 or 8.8.

Why in the world do you think he posted in the TJ forum? And why would he be considering an AEV Highline kit if he had a JK? And with the D35 comment....that axle would be just fine with what he'll be doing, especially with a S35 kit. Come on man.

[fishinjeeper]

i vote we make Never Mondays 35 inch tire guide sticky. this is like the 3rd time he has posted it today

[never monday]

Originally Posted by fishinjeeper

i vote we make Never Mondays 35 inch tire guide sticky. this is like the 3rd time he has posted it today

I vote no
(it's only been 1 time today)

[fishinjeeper]

ha, guess today i have been reading different ones you have posted on

[Sobie]

Hmm it might work but I'd look into some highline tube fenders to get all the clearance you can. I think genright or rokmen makes some. Someone will have to chime in to correct me.
Metalcloak claims to be able to run 35s with stock suspension and their fenders. You could probably pull it off with their fenders and a body lift but I think your uptravel would be limited.

[mudb8]

35's will fit with some issues.... personally, if I were in your shoes, I'd stick to 33's with the AEV highline and an nth TT.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by fishinjeeper

i vote we make Never Mondays 35 inch tire guide sticky. this is like the 3rd time he has posted it today

its also in the TJ Tech Boot Camp thread...which REALLY should be a stickie...

[Imped]

It will work fine. Highline fenders clear up A LOT of space and 35's really aren't that big. With highlines and the body lift, you'll have plenty of room and a good amount of up travel. And since you won't be lifted, I highly recommend going with a FLAT belly pan to clear up as much space as you can. And don't forget, you can highline your stock fenders and make it look very nice to save some serious $$.

[jbak]

My goal was to get the most clearance and tire size while keeping things as stock and low as possible. Would I need new brakes, steering and gears for 33's as well? This is for a TJ with auto btw.

[mudb8]

Originally Posted by imped4now

It will work fine. Highline fenders clear up A LOT of space and 35's really aren't that big. With highlines and the body lift, you'll have plenty of room and a good amount of up travel. And since you won't be lifted, I highly recommend going with a FLAT belly pan to clear up as much space as you can. And don't forget, you can highline your stock fenders and make it look very nice to save some serious $$.

highlining the stock fenders gets rid of the rubbing issue with 35's the aev's have at the firewall.

[cgmrdc]

guy in my club just finished this

Originally Posted by WillyNilly

Heres mine on 35s.

but he has hp 44/9 in. full width. twin sticked d300.

no body lift and a flat belly