First, let me mention that without reading through all of MrBlaines posts on over a dozen forums I'd be completely in the dark. While he isn't the first one to do the swap, he is however the first one to do it RIGHT.
Here's a good amount of info that I've come across thus far for the swap. No useful order.
Red = uncertainty
Knuckle/Brake Bracket Spacer
- 1.4", technically .3" [MrBlaine], but 1/4" works. A washer is required to space the caliper bracket ~1/16 1/8 away from the knuckle. The 1/4" spacer will center the u-joints between the balljoints. The bracket spacer will center the rotors between the pads.
- You need to remove the trackbar mount from the XJ/TJ axle. The reason being is the tierod travels straight through the mount. JKS makes an over the axle mount to raise the trackbar. This isn't perfect as you'll need to shorten your stock/aftermarket trackbar now. But it does put the trackbar inline with the draglink (note upper mount on passenger knuckle). This puts the two in a parallel config and prevents bumpsteer.
- The tierod follows closely infront of the axle. Sorta a pain as I'll have to use the original WJ tierod ends. I am currently unsure if a WJ tierod will work. I suspect that the WJ axle is wider. A quick measurement from a WJ in a parking lot reads 56 1/4 from eye-eye for the tierod ends. The pvc mockup shows the eye-eye reading to be 53". I hope the JKS tierod is tapped pretty deep, I'll need to shave off some length. We'll see how this turns out, sadly I'm a bit doubtful.
Fabricating a new tierod would have been easy, but the thread is m24x1.5. It seems impossible or very expensive to buy both a RH and LH tap for this. A threaded isert would have saved my ***, but those too are impossible to find. People talk about using the chevy 1 ton ends, but I fear that the knuckles space the tierod so close to the axle that it would rub against the cover had I used some straight TREs. I've been assured that the JKS tierod is made for my axle setup. So things should be good.
- Cannot confirm the required length yet. I have a WJ draglink, so we'll see.
- 2001/02 Ford Explorer Sport Trac- You may need to remove 1/16" from the unitbearings flange for the rotor to slide over it.
(Not confirmed first hand yet). The rotors are 5x4.5 and 12" (WJ size).
- You'll need to flip both the draglink and the tierod. www.goferitoffroad.com
sells tapered inserts. Drill out the hole in the knuckle to 3/4". Weld the inserts in and flip. You will need a replacement end for the draglink. The end is for a RHD WJ. Part numbers will be given upon completion.
- Undecided on what i'm doing. I plan to install the axles when I install a 3.5 or 4.5" lift. So I might just do extended lines at the same time.
- The upper is the same, the lower is WJ specific.