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Unread 12-08-2012, 08:39 AM   #1
M1ark
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Who has installed NVG241OR?

Looking at Atlas II versus NVG241OR from JB Conversions. I am looking to install it myself and wondering how much fab work is required. I am looking for a plug and play option but my research does not tell me to that level of detail. I am leaning towards a tera low only because it looks fairly easy for me to do and once I've rebuilt the transfer case it goes back on the jeep as plug and play. Don't want the gear whine that tera low has and once I've put in the wide chain, sye and 2wd low kit I am at the Atlas or JBC's NVG241OR price point.

Need your comments from experience please.

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Unread 12-08-2012, 09:20 AM   #2
Spyder05
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im in a very similar boat as you. i need to upgrade my crawl ratio and im stuck between finding a 241 or a d300 with 4.1. ive ruled out an atlas simply due to the cost and i know i don' need more than 4.0-1 tcase. i have read that the 241 is pretty much a straight swap, you just need to do something with your 4wd switch if you care. the one piece i don't know about is how you would get the speedo to work properly due to it being electrical and the 231 being gear driven. you shouldn't have to get a new front shaft, but obviously the rear would have to be redone. the only reason im leaning more towards the 300 than the 241 for me is the ability to twin stick.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 09:31 AM   #3
M1ark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post
.... i have read that the 241 is pretty much a straight swap, you just need to do something with your 4wd switch if you care. the one piece i don't know about is how you would get the speedo to work properly due to it being electrical and the 231 being gear driven. you shouldn't have to get a new front shaft, but obviously the rear would have to be redone. the only reason im leaning more towards the 300 than the 241 for me is the ability to twin stick.
Exactly my questions for a guy who has done the 241 swap.

1. How did you solve the 4wd switch? Might be optional.
2. How did you solve the speedo problem? Not optional.
3. What rear driveshaft did you use?
4. Did the 241 otherwise bolt in to an AX15?
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Unread 12-08-2012, 11:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post
im in a very similar boat as you. i need to upgrade my crawl ratio and im stuck between finding a 241 or a d300 with 4.1. ive ruled out an atlas simply due to the cost and i know i don' need more than 4.0-1 tcase. i have read that the 241 is pretty much a straight swap, you just need to do something with your 4wd switch if you care. the one piece i don't know about is how you would get the speedo to work properly due to it being electrical and the 231 being gear driven. you shouldn't have to get a new front shaft, but obviously the rear would have to be redone. the only reason im leaning more towards the 300 than the 241 for me is the ability to twin stick.
Have you considered the Rubicrawler given that you have the 42RLE?
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Unread 12-08-2012, 11:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1ark View Post
Exactly my questions for a guy who has done the 241 swap.

1. How did you solve the 4wd switch? Might be optional.
2. How did you solve the speedo problem? Not optional.
3. What rear driveshaft did you use?
4. Did the 241 otherwise bolt in to an AX15?
IIRC, there are some good threads on getting the 4x4 switch to work.

Pretty sure the speedo cable should just plug right in and you will just need something like a Blue Monkey Speedo healer. Similar to doing a SSYE on a 231.

You will need to modify existing driveshaft or get a new one that mounts to the 241 fixed flange.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #6
brianmlove
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1ark

Exactly my questions for a guy who has done the 241 swap.

1. How did you solve the 4wd switch? Might be optional.
2. How did you solve the speedo problem? Not optional.
3. What rear driveshaft did you use?
4. Did the 241 otherwise bolt in to an AX15?
I did the swap from a 241 into my jeep and my 231 into the rubi. So I swapped the 4wd switch one both tcases

You have to get a programmer or take it by a dealership or 4wd place

I ended up using a stock rear drive shaft from a rubi 3 3/4" suspension lift

Dunno if it bolts to that tranny.


Something else to consider is a Novak tcase shifter cable
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:39 PM   #7
Spyder05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Have you considered the Rubicrawler given that you have the 42RLE?
yes, but they dont suggest using it with a 231.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post

yes, but they dont suggest using it with a 231.
That opinion is out there. With upgraded planetary and chain I intend to try.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 04:44 PM   #9
MisfitSeven
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The 241, 231, Dana 300 all have the same mounting bolt pattern. The 241 will bolt to the AX-15.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 06:03 PM   #10
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post
yes, but they dont suggest using it with a 231.
Is that due to the increased torque the input side of the t-case would see?
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Unread 12-08-2012, 08:49 PM   #11
BimotaBruce
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I've just done the conversion (from 231 & going to 241) this week, along with a UCF tummy tuck & Novak shifter.

FYI> The Novak shifter SO NICE!! I should have put one in the Jeep a long time ago, but never had the "extra" coin. The TC shifts like butter now...and unbelievable difference from stock.

The UCF TT is well made too, a very nice part.

Without all the extra work/parts involved with the TT, the 241 conversion went pretty smoothly. Of course, I have an '05, so the speedo plug seamlessly fit my LJ.

I decided not to connect the 4x4 light plug. I'll do it later if it bothers me.

Being in Los Angeles, I had a local driveshaft shop make up a CV driveshaft for the rear for $400 & it took 1 day.

One "trick" I did was get rid of the balancer & flat flange on the rear of the 241. That balancer feels like it weighs 20 lbs! Losing that will help offset some of the weight that the 3/16" steel TT added. (I opted not to use aluminum TT, as aluminum gouges & dig into rocks, where the steel will be more likely to slide).

The 241 TC has a 1330 U-joint flange for the front driveshaft. Non-Rubi Jeeps have a 1310 U-joint on the front driveshaft. I pulled that front flange off, and it installs onto the rear of the TC after you pull that balancer/flange part.

I ordered a new flange from Tereflex with a 1310 flange. It was about $70. This was installed onto the front of the TC....but not that easy> All aftermarket flanges come without the OEM oil slinger, so the seal had to be replaced with another seal that has the smaller ID of a non-Mopar U-joint flange. (BTW, that oil seal # is 3946.)

If you're wondering why I didn't just use a Mopar flange, or simply buy a new Mopar oil slinger, I'll tell ya'> The genuine Mopar flange is over $250, and includes a new oil slinger. However, the oil slinger isn't available for purchase separately.

Hope all that was explained well, it's a bit convoluted.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #12
Spyder05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Is that due to the increased torque the input side of the t-case would see?

thats what i read. i guess it could cause premature case fatigue. but in the same post they simply suggest upgrading to a 6 gear planatary on the input and a thicker chain.


ive thought about looking into the planetary upgrade and thicker chain, but couple the cost of those with my need to get a new sye...my jeep came with the hack'n crap...it puts me in the ball park of a 241. then add the rubi crawler and i have an awesome crawl ratio.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 10:15 AM   #13
Spyder05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimotaBruce View Post
I've just done the conversion (from 231 & going to 241) this week, along with a UCF tummy tuck & Novak shifter.

FYI> The Novak shifter SO NICE!! I should have put one in the Jeep a long time ago, but never had the "extra" coin. The TC shifts like butter now...and unbelievable difference from stock.

The UCF TT is well made too, a very nice part.

Without all the extra work/parts involved with the TT, the 241 conversion went pretty smoothly. Of course, I have an '05, so the speedo plug seamlessly fit my LJ.

I decided not to connect the 4x4 light plug. I'll do it later if it bothers me.

Being in Los Angeles, I had a local driveshaft shop make up a CV driveshaft for the rear for $400 & it took 1 day.

One "trick" I did was get rid of the balancer & flat flange on the rear of the 241. That balancer feels like it weighs 20 lbs! Losing that will help offset some of the weight that the 3/16" steel TT added. (I opted not to use aluminum TT, as aluminum gouges & dig into rocks, where the steel will be more likely to slide).

The 241 TC has a 1330 U-joint flange for the front driveshaft. Non-Rubi Jeeps have a 1310 U-joint on the front driveshaft. I pulled that front flange off, and it installs onto the rear of the TC after you pull that balancer/flange part.

I ordered a new flange from Tereflex with a 1310 flange. It was about $70. This was installed onto the front of the TC....but not that easy> All aftermarket flanges come without the OEM oil slinger, so the seal had to be replaced with another seal that has the smaller ID of a non-Mopar U-joint flange. (BTW, that oil seal # is 3946.)

If you're wondering why I didn't just use a Mopar flange, or simply buy a new Mopar oil slinger, I'll tell ya'> The genuine Mopar flange is over $250, and includes a new oil slinger. However, the oil slinger isn't available for purchase separately.

Hope all that was explained well, it's a bit convoluted.
couldn't you have used the front output flange from the 231, since you took the 241 front flange off and used it in the rear??
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Unread 12-09-2012, 10:25 AM   #14
BimotaBruce
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That was a possibility that I never checked into because I had the 231 TC pre-sold.

Good stinkin' thinkin' though!
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Unread 12-09-2012, 10:26 AM   #15
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post

thats what i read. i guess it could cause premature case fatigue. but in the same post they simply suggest upgrading to a 6 gear planatary on the input and a thicker chain.

ive thought about looking into the planetary upgrade and thicker chain, but couple the cost of those with my need to get a new sye...my jeep came with the hack'n crap...it puts me in the ball park of a 241. then add the rubi crawler and i have an awesome crawl ratio.
I'd note that the only place I have ever seen those issues specifically raised is by a single poster here. Yes it was someone who is generally very knowledgeable so not saying wrong but haven't seen it said officially by AA.

Confused about your math. Six gear planetary, wide chain and SYE probably runs you 600-700 area total. Seems like most 241s I see for sale go for double that at least.
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