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When buying a Wrangler, what to look for, what to avoid:
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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When buying a Wrangler, what to look for, what to avoid:
I am looking to buy a Wrangler, have about 10K to spend, and have had small import cars allmost all my life. I have little idea what to look for in Wranglers and what to avoid. I found a list in the "FAQ" section specifically one by Todd Murray, but what are your opinions?
What to loook for: What to avoid:
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#2 |
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JEEP FREAK
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Did you see this link yet?
http://www.geocities.com/jeepboy49028/changes.html Its all the changes to the TJ over the years. The most common problems you'll run into: 1. Cracked manifold/header. This isn't a problem on 2000+ models due to DC switching to a 2 piece design. 2. Leaking radiator. Easily fixable with a $150-200 aftermarket all metal replacement. 3. Addiction to modify which causes a shrinking bank account. I'd look for a 2001+ model so you get the distributor-less ignition, the new design exhaust header, and if its a soft top it will be the heavier sailcloth material which is much quiter. Welcome to the board. ![]()
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98 TJ |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Main thing is look at the pros and cons for 6cyl vs 4cyl (power, resale value, etc) then weigh the pros and cons for softtop vs hardtop. Everyone seems to have a different opinion on these. Just decide what works best for you, everything else can be fixed.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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look for a dana 44 rear - - decide if yo want full hard doors and hard top -
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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'00 Sport. 5-speed, Detroit TrueTrac Dana 44 rear, Detroit TrueTrac front, 4.10's, 2" RE BB, OME shocks, 31" BFG MT, JKS Quicker Disco's, Borla, Chicago Electric 10k winch '99 Z28 M6, some goodies '94 'Vette, A4 all stock |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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Id go with a 4.0 myself. From 98 on check the head casting numbers at the drivers side right at the base of the valve cover on the head casting about 1" back from the oil fill cap. If the numbers are 0331 seems a significant number of them are prone to cracking between the #3-4 cylinders. Pull the oil cap and see if it looks milky. There are 0680 and 0730 (I think) that are non problematic.
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#7 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#8 |
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Farm Wheeler
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Check for evidence of off-road use (abuse). Look under the Jeep for scrapes, gouges, and dents. Look for bent control arms, control arm brackets, tie rod,... Check the wheels for bends and scrapes. The more of this you see the harder it's been ridden and probably the less you should want it. Ideally what you want is a Jeep that never went off-road - there's a lot of them out there.
The D44 rear axle has already been mentioned, you can tell by looking at the fill plug on the cover. If it is a rubber plug it is not a D44. If it has a metal plug it is probably a D44 but it may be a D35 with an aftermarket cover. The D35 axle is not the end of the world. If you find a good Jeep at a good price don't let it having a D35 turn you off. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In a van down by the DesMoines river
Posts: 485
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In MN especially look for rust, signs of rust or rust repair.
Although most in your price and age range are going to have a little as there are spots on the TJ that seem weak or prone to it from the factory. Places to look are inside the door sills, under the rear tailgate and under the rear taillights. Also look under the carpet. If it was ever wet and not drained or dried out the floor could be mostly rust or full of junk? There are a lot of products to mask and cover these spots up such as corner guards etc. Again dont be turned off by a little or some rust, but check how extensive it is first or how well it was repaired etc. Also be sure to take it for a good test drive and shift it into 4wd and make sure that all works and is smooth or like it should be. |
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