When adjusting Autotrans links... few questions - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
opticalwaveguy
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When adjusting Autotrans links... few questions

When adjusting the linkages is it helpful to remove the forward driveshaft? or is that just more work than it is worth. I'm having similar problems as described in this link. The Haynes Manual sort of sucks when laying out a procedure. I'm having trouble seeing where the links enter the top of the transmission where some of the adjustments are made.


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post #2 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 06:30 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I adjusted my transmission shifter cable length with the front driveshaft in place. Did you figure out how to adjust the shifter cable length yet? The shifter cable length is adjusted by moving the shifter cable housing where it is held in place by the forward-most bracket on the transmission itself. So the entire thing is moved forward or back, whichever way it needs to go. There is a clip that holds it in place that you pull out for the adjustment, then lock it back into place once you've moved it. It's been almost two years so I don't recall how that clip is released but it's somewhat self evident if you stare at it with a good strong light long enough. I basically adjusted my cable length to the point the shifter was in neutral, the transmission was in neutral, and it would start indicating it was in precisely the right position since the NSS is fairly critical.

The kickdown cable length is adjusted so there is no slack in it with accelerator pedal at rest. No tension on the kickdown cable, just no slack.

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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It's been a while since I've been on the forum. Some of the info about my jeep no longer appears in my profile...
2000 TJ with 3sp Auto Trans Dana 30/35 Stock height.
I think I can feel to make the adjustments but its a PITA

Edit:just saw your post Jerry. Thanks. I think I can see the piece you're talking about. just having trouble "feeling" the detents for the Park, which should be the most rearward position.

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post #4 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Do you remove the angled metal bracket or the black round center piece to make the adjustment?
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Bracket.JPG  

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post #5 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 07:47 PM
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opticalwaveguy View Post
Do you remove the angled metal bracket or the black round center piece to make the adjustment?
The bracket is bolted into place and doesn't move, the cable housing itself is moved back or forth as needed.

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post #6 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. That makes so much more sense. I checked the TV cable as described in the link on post 1. It wasn't off much at all. BTW the reason I started this whole project: I can't find the gears or even reverse without "hunting" with the shifter. I'm back to the Garage but I'll post an update later tonight...

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-04-2009, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm pretty sure I found the problem.
1. The shift lever connected to the shaft that goes into the transmission is so loose it's just flopping around on the shaft. I can't see a way to tighten it towards the direction of the transmission, just a way to make it tighter on the shaft.
2. There is nearly 1/4 in between the centerline of the eyelet at the end of the shift cable and the centerline of the knob it connects to with it in the proper "park" position. I'm calling it a night and will try to make all the adjustments in the morning.

If anyone thinks I missed something (or has a better written procedure than the Haynes manual) please let me know.

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post #8 of 14 Old 09-05-2009, 09:59 AM
Jerry Bransford
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Tighten the lever, then adjust the cable length as described several times.

I would stop referring to that Haynes manual and get yourself the factory service manual which covers this type of stuff in detail. Haynes and Chiltons manuals are a waste of money for anything beyond the basics.

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post #9 of 14 Old 09-05-2009, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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This is the loose piece (white arrow). Once tightened, the shift cable was already at the correct length and did not need to be adjusted. The TV (yellow arrow) still needs to be tweeked. The throttle still must be slightly compressed for the gear to make, especially when slowing to a stop. Fluid level was correct. So I believe the TV cable needs to be [adjusted] shorter.
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-09-2009, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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For anyone searching through the threads. The final solution to hard starts and gear slipping was to adjust the throttle valve cable another 1/2 cm (shorter). I also found the symptoms were starting to go away after I had driven it a couple of days and had frequently checked the fluid level, adding a total of 1/2 quart after the initial check (following work) was in the middle of the OK band.

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post #11 of 14 Old 01-08-2012, 08:11 AM
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In the FSM on page 21-191 is the adjustment procedure for both the
Gearshift cable and the Throttle valve cable. (Nice pictures too)

For those of you that are also having starting problems, its better to check
this before you look at the neutral safety switch (NSS).

I replaced the NSS. Jeep started right up only, to have not start 2 days later.
I did all suggestion of cleaning all grounds and connection with no joy.

So I continued to search the forums and found this post. Checked my FSM for
the adjustment procedure and now will see it this is it Wish me luck.

Will post results
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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Well after spending about hour out in the cold adjusting the cable, it' a no go.
I give up!
I guess I'll have to take it some one.
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-08-2012, 07:04 PM
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What were your initial symptoms?

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post #14 of 14 Old 01-20-2012, 05:09 PM
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No start condition, fixed by moving shift handle or starting in neutral.
Checked battery condition, cable connection and condition. Fuses and relays.
Switched horn relay with starter relay, had the starter checked at AZ and all the other suggestion others had.
I guess I'll have to have someone check the electrical.
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