Whats wrong with this lift?

**phillies4752** · 10-06-2009, 10:58 PM

Hey im just wondering what the pros and cons are for this lift.

Skyjacker 4" Economy Lift Kit with Hydro Shocks for 03-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ - Quadratec

Its pretty cheep for a 4inch lift. I was surprised. My jeep is a daily driver but every now and then i love to go muddin in it. Would this kit do the job for the complete 4inch lift or do I have to buy other things?
Thanks a lot

**2003X** · 10-06-2009, 11:09 PM

Go with the Rough Country 4" Lift, its only $499, and if you order through the vendor on here, you get 10% off. Not a bad deal.

Jeep TJ Suspension Lift

Also, they have a 60day money back guarantee, now how can you beat that.

I run the 4" RC with a 1" BL and 33s, here's how it looks.

**Imped** · 10-06-2009, 11:14 PM

Or don't buy anything with poly bushings in the control arms, that works too. First off, what size tires are you wanting to run? Secondly, you probably don't need 4" to run those tires. Third, stock control arms are better than either the standard RC or Skyjacker arms. Either don't lift high enough to warrant 'needing' new control arms (3" or under suspension) or get good control arms. I consider both of those kits overpriced unless your jeep stays on the road 100% of the time.

**phillies4752** · 10-06-2009, 11:24 PM

I run 33's with a 2inch skyjacker lift. I am not worried about clearing 33's. I am more focused on a better flex. Im starting to like this RC 4" that you put up. They make good kits from what I hear. Now I guess it comes to which company has the better kit. The Skyjacker 4" or the RC 4". Do I have to buy anything else for my jeep or can I just install the lift and be road ready?

**Imped** · 10-06-2009, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlllllllllO

I run 33's with a 2inch skyjacker lift. I am not worried about clearing 33's. I am more focused on a better flex. Im starting to like this RC 4" that you put up. They make good kits from what I hear. Now I guess it comes to which company has the better kit. The Skyjacker 4" or the RC 4". Do I have to buy anything else for my jeep or can I just install the lift and be road ready?

First off, if you want better flex, more height won't do that for you. Secondly, if you're considering 4" of suspension lift, I'd expect you to know that it's too much for the stock rear driveshaft to handle. You'll either need to a) drop the t-case down by lowering your skid plate and, therefore, lowering your ground clearance that you just paid $$ to raise, or b) get a SYE and new CV driveshaft. Just so we're clear, what's your definition of "flex"? I'm assuming 'more room for the tire to tuck'? I'm also assuming you're rubbing right now when fully flexed. I would advise that you get a 1" body lift. That is 1" of pure clearance and doesn't effect the distance between your bump stop and spring seat. That body lift will allow you to do many great things in the future and it won't effect your suspension at all....ie, control arm angles, driveshaft angles, etc. will remain unchanged. More 'flex' comes from downtravel. You really only NEED 4.5-5.5" of up travel, which you have now. In order to gain more downtravel/flex, you'll need to be able to run longer shocks. In order to do that, you'll need to extend the upper mounting points. At that point, your control arms will be your limiting factor, so that's next. Then the track bars.....see where I'm going? You're not going to get better "flex" out of those two kits. The control arms will actually flex LESS than your stock arms and at that point, they'll be ripping control arm mounts off of your frame. Need recommendations on what you should do?

**phillies4752** · 10-06-2009, 11:40 PM

Yes please =)

**Imped** · 10-06-2009, 11:48 PM

Are you wanting to replace the spacers with springs or does it matter? IMO, there isn't a better way to run 33's than the following:

RC 2.5
1-1.25" body lift
1" MML

If you want to "complete" things, get adjustable track bars f/r and some nice sway bar links. You'll have has much usable flex as your current control arms can provide, plenty of room for 33's and larger in the future, accommodations for a tummy tuck and gas tank tuck, and can still use the stock control arms just fine. The springs and shocks are excellent and ride great. You can use the provided t-case drop spacers as bump stop extensions or seat risers. Best bang for the buck and one of the best choices, regardless. I run 35's on that amount of lift currently (with other stuff) and will be running 40's on the same amount of lift when I swap in some D60's.

**phillies4752** · 10-06-2009, 11:51 PM

Cool thanks a ton!! only question i have is what is the 1" MML? never heard of that one, im still kinda new, really thanks a lot for your help

**phillies4752** · 10-06-2009, 11:56 PM

and I feel like going from 2inch skyjacker to a 2.5inch RC isn't worth it. It might just be me but i don't want to spend 1k on .5inches. Im not arguing with you because I see your point and it works really well. With the 4" lift I just need the SYE and a new Driveshaft? Sorry if im being a pain I just don't understand the whole deal.
Thanks!

**Imped** · 10-06-2009, 11:57 PM

1" MML is Motor Mount Lift. If you can visualize why lifting the motor mounts up 1" will take care of vibes, great job. Just take a look at your motor mounts. They are like hinges where, if viewing your engine from the side, your engine can rotate around them. If you lift the mounts up by 1", the engine "tilts" back slightly, which tilts the transmission/t-case back as well, just slightly, since they're all connected in a straight line. This will take care of any vibrations that you may get from 2.5" of lift. It's also a great thing to do with a body lift since you won't have to modify the fan shroud at all (lift the body up 1", lift the motor up 1"--orientation is virtually stock). Lastly, you probably won't have any shifter issues since the orientation will be very close to stock as well. BTW, you have a NSG370 transmission and NP231 t-case. You'll learn all of this stuff as you go on, but I can't stress enough on how important it is to know and understand how all of the suspension and drivetrain components operate and move through their cycles. If you can get to the point where you can visualize these things, it makes things very convenient. Your suspension is very simple....just get down there and check things out.

**Imped** · 10-07-2009, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlllllllllO

and I feel like going from 2inch skyjacker to a 2.5inch RC isn't worth it. It might just be me but i don't want to spend 1k on .5inches. Im not arguing with you because I see your point and it works really well. With the 4" lift I just need the SYE and a new Driveshaft? Sorry if im being a pain I just don't understand the whole deal.
Thanks!

You're not paying 1k. The RC 2.5 + the body lift is like $370 combined. Additionally, you'll be gaining "flex." Currently, your springs can only provide a certain level of flex. The spacers don't give you anymore flex than stock....they just provide you with a bit more clearance. Taller springs will give you that much more available articulation.....so 2.5". Plus, the RC springs are softer and taller than most 2.5" springs, like a slinky. So they will keep pressure on your drooped tire in flexed situations. Don't think of this is paying money for a certain amount of height.....quit thinking in terms of $/inch. You're replacing your stock components with better components. Who cares how high it is? You don't need more height anyway. And the SYE + new driveshaft is going to run you at least $400. It's a great thing to do, but not totally necessary at that height.

EDIT: http://roughcountry.com/jeep_tj_combo_2.html
$390, my bad.

http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_motor-mounts.html
$55 for the MML.

So that's $445 for 3.75" of overall lift. And, it will ride better than the 4" kit, along with not needing you to drop the transfer case skid at all. With the 4" kit and no SYE, you'll need to drop the t-case skid a good inch or more to take care of vibes. So that's only a 3" net at the t-case skid at most. And, do you realize how ugly 1" between your skid and frame is? Additionally, you would have some major shifter issues with that much of a drop. And, you don't want those control arms. That's literally wasted money. Keep stock or go to an arm with a "flex" joint of some kind on at least one end.

**phillies4752** · 10-07-2009, 12:05 AM

oooooooo I see what you mean with the 1 inch body lift and the 1 inch MML!!!!! Usually in the BL kits they have the fan raisers, but if I got the 1"MML I wouldn't have to raise the fan.... right?

**Imped** · 10-07-2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlllllllllO

oooooooo I see what you mean with the 1 inch body lift and the 1 inch MML!!!!! Usually in the BL kits they have the fan raisers, but if I got the 1"MML I wouldn't have to raise the fan.... right?

Correct. And look at my previous post...I added a few more items.

squigy123 · 10-07-2009, 12:10 AM

i have the kit from RC that has the 2.5" lift and the 1.25" BL i also have there disco's. I run 33s with rubbing issues whatsoever. they are 33/10.50 incase you were wondering that. on rims with 3.5" BS i believe...i think.

**Imped** · 10-07-2009, 12:12 AM

As for wheels....on 4" of backspacing is perfect. It won't stick you out too wide and you'll be able to run 12.50 width tires in the future.

10-07-2009, 12:10 AM	#14
squigy123 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: altoona pa Posts: 253 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	i have the kit from RC that has the 2.5" lift and the 1.25" BL i also have there disco's. I run 33s with rubbing issues whatsoever. they are 33/10.50 incase you were wondering that. on rims with 3.5" BS i believe...i think.