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Unread 10-11-2009, 11:14 AM   #16
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubaDub06 View Post
I bought the whole assembly from the dealer for about $130 when mine went out earlier this year. I installed it myself.
Any tricks to replacing it? Alignment? Positioning? Or is it a simple swap?

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Unread 10-11-2009, 12:26 PM   #17
Fropleyqk
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OK, nevermind, I found a FSM for an 03. Im assuming everythings the same in an 06?

Either way, it says after installation that a "DRB Scan Tool" must be used to ensure proper positioning. Is this neccessary if I havent torn the whole engine down? Anyone done this before and want to chime in?
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Unread 10-11-2009, 01:03 PM   #18
RubaDub06
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I didn't need a scan tool for mine. As long as you don't allow the engine to turn over you should be fine, as long as you put the new one in exactly how the old one came out. I used a sharpie to make marks to make sure that it lined back up. Kinda hard to explain. I posted in your other thread and I don't think that the parts for the 06 are the same as the 03. I could difinitely be wrong, but I would confirm 100% before you made the purchase.
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Unread 10-11-2009, 01:25 PM   #19
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubaDub06 View Post
I didn't need a scan tool for mine. As long as you don't allow the engine to turn over you should be fine, as long as you put the new one in exactly how the old one came out. I used a sharpie to make marks to make sure that it lined back up. Kinda hard to explain. I posted in your other thread and I don't think that the parts for the 06 are the same as the 03. I could difinitely be wrong, but I would confirm 100% before you made the purchase.
ok ill do that. Ill probably give the dealer a call. The reason I ask is there are some ebay listings that have the shaft for 00-06. But I think I agree with you. The picture break down in the 03 manual looks different than my engine. Thats good to hear I wont need the Scan tool. I know what youre saying when you say its hard to explain, I read through the procedure in the FSM. You got any tips? Im pretty mechanincally inclined and not really intimidated by this I just want to make sure I dont miss something important and make a bigger problem.
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Unread 10-11-2009, 01:43 PM   #20
RubaDub06
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Actually, as I was typing what I did I realized what I was describing was when I took the original part off to see if I could fix it. I believe it was just a pull and replace with the whole new assmebly. Pretty straight forward and easy.
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Unread 10-12-2009, 08:26 AM   #21
Fropleyqk
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So I called the dealer, the sensor is about $45 bucks and the shaft is $130. By the sound of the noise, Im thinking its the shaft not an electrical sensor. If I can save $45 bucks and reuse my old sensor, Id rather do that. Is there a way I can rule out the sensor? I have no starting issues and it goes above 2500RPM just fine. Those are the only signs of a failing Camshaft Sensor Ive found.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 08:40 AM   #22
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Do you have an update? Was it easy to install? I have 31,000miles on my 06 and it started making the same noise. Only for 1 minute on start-up and at higher RPMs. I will check the belt, it was dark this mourning.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 10:10 AM   #23
mmf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fropleyquark View Post
So I called the dealer, the sensor is about $45 bucks and the shaft is $130. By the sound of the noise, Im thinking its the shaft not an electrical sensor. If I can save $45 bucks and reuse my old sensor, Id rather do that. Is there a way I can rule out the sensor? I have no starting issues and it goes above 2500RPM just fine. Those are the only signs of a failing Camshaft Sensor Ive found.
You can reuse the old CMP sensor. The dealer price on the oil pump gear drive assembly for me (2004 4.0L) was $65. Transferred the old sensor to the new drive assembly, and it runs fine. I turned the engine over by hand to line up the plate and mark specific reference points on it and the housing so the new asembly was installed exactly the same as the original position. Did not need to resync the CMP. Do not allow the engine to turn over while assembly is out of the engine. I disconnect the battery and leave manual trans vehicles in neutral to avoid any accidents.

A CMP sensor that is failing would set DTCs and/or cause hard start or no start problem.

edited to add. Look up the TSB and see the description of the shaft endplay measurement to determine if your assembly needs to be replaced.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 10:32 AM   #24
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heyyou View Post
Do you have an update? Was it easy to install? I have 31,000miles on my 06 and it started making the same noise. Only for 1 minute on start-up and at higher RPMs. I will check the belt, it was dark this mourning.
Mine was the same way when it started to go. It would only squeak for a minute real quietly when starting. Over the past 2 weeks it progressively got much worse. This morning I was afraid I wouldnt make it back home because the stupid thing was making so much noise... replace it before it fails!

I just picked up the assembly an hour ago. Ill be putting it in today as soon as the engine cools down. My sensor is fine but I ordered the entire assembly just for safe measure. Looks pretty cut and dry. Ill take some pics and do a little write up when Im done.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 10:34 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmf View Post
You can reuse the old CMP sensor. The dealer price on the oil pump gear drive assembly for me (2004 4.0L) was $65. Transferred the old sensor to the new drive assembly, and it runs fine. I turned the engine over by hand to line up the plate and mark specific reference points on it and the housing so the new asembly was installed exactly the same as the original position. Did not need to resync the CMP. Do not allow the engine to turn over while assembly is out of the engine. I disconnect the battery and leave manual trans vehicles in neutral to avoid any accidents.

A CMP sensor that is failing would set DTCs and/or cause hard start or no start problem.

edited to add. Look up the TSB and see the description of the shaft endplay measurement to determine if your assembly needs to be replaced.
I never could find that TSB... Why did you turn the engine over? I know what youre saying but I figured Id set the new assembly to the same point as the one coming out... I havent messed with it much yet so I might be missing something....
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Unread 10-13-2009, 12:23 PM   #26
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OK here's how to do this thang:

1. Put in gear
2. Pull ebrake
3. Disconnect batter (just for safety)
4. Remove 2 hex screws from top of assembly then remove the cover.

5. Unplug Camshaft Sensor harness. The trick is to pull the little red thing. It locks the plugs together.

6. Make note of the positioning of the "wheel" inside the assembly. Take a picture if you have to (I did). Just make absolutely sure you know where it was positioned before you take it out. This was my pic:

7. Remove that little SOB bolt thats up under the assembly. Its hidden under on the right side viewed from the passenger side of the vehicle. In other words, towards the front of the engine. Once the bolt comes out, drop the bolt and the bracket down onto the engine mount . Fish them out with a telescopic magnet!

8. Remove the entire assembly by pulling it up and out. When it comes out the shaft will turn. And this is where the problem lies. The shaft serves 2 purposes. 1. gives camshaft orientation to the sensor though the grooves about midway down the shaft. 2. turns your oil pump with the flathead shaped end of the shaft. When you pull it out, the shaft will rotate (because the camshaft input itself is stationary, circled in green below). When it does this, it will rotate the oil pump a little. Look down into the hole with a flashlight and you can see the slot it rides in. (Red arrow below)

9. Orient your new assembly about 1/4 turn counter clockwise from where you want it to be when installed. Grab a long flathead screwdriver and turn the oil pump input to the same position as the bottom of the shaft.

***NOTE: there's a small seal on the base of the assembly where it mates to the engine block that keeps oil from spurting out. MAKE SURE YOUVE GOT ONE before the next step!!! Just realized my new assembly didnt have a new one on it. Stupid mistake but now Ive got a nasty oil leak. Getting fixed today***
10. Carfully slide the new assembly back into the hole. If you lined the oil pump up correctly, it should slide down all the way flush with the engine block. And the "wheel" should be oriented correctly. If not, trial and error fit and position the oil pump until it all lines up the way its supposed to. Just make absolutley sure that the wheel is in the exact position it was when it came out.
11. Put the bracket and bolt back in place dropping it often and cussing a lot.
12. Plug in harness.
13. Put cap and 2 hexs screws back on.
14. Reconnect battery
15. Say a little prayer and then crank the engine. Keep an eye on the oil pressure since you just played with the oil pump as well. If all went well have a beer. If not, cuss and throw things.


***Keep in mind this was on an 06. The 03 FSM I have (linked in my sig) doesnt really help, theyre different***
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Last edited by Fropleyqk; 10-23-2009 at 05:50 AM..
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Unread 10-13-2009, 01:52 PM   #27
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Could you tell what was making the noise?
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Unread 10-13-2009, 01:55 PM   #28
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heyyou View Post
Could you tell what was making the noise?
It was the shaft. Theres a bearing inside of it that was on its way out. The difference between how easy it was to spin the shaft between the old one and new one was like night and day,
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Unread 10-13-2009, 04:58 PM   #29
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Do you have a part number for your 2006?
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Unread 10-13-2009, 05:51 PM   #30
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A real bearing? I ask this cause back in the day of regular distributors the bearing was just a bushing that was lubed by eng oil and did real well for many miles.
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