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post #46 of 82 Old 10-23-2009, 07:11 PM
littledevilTJ
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not sure if its a "real" bearing, does it really matter? if its bad its bad and you cant independently change out the bearing on these things. you might as well just replace the whole thing. but mine got clay caked in it from a PO and the clay stayed in there and destroyed whatever bearing is in there. i justed replaced mine, its alittle different type of senser. mine cost about 50 for the shaft with a discount from napa auto parts store.

btw my new shaft did not come with a seal like the old one and it started leaking oil. so tonight i took it apart and put some grey rtv(just alittle bit) and it sealed it up.

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post #47 of 82 Old 10-23-2009, 09:02 PM
JLSargent
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Quote:
and you cant independently change out the bearing on these things.
You probably can't do it, but If I had one with a bad bearing I would just replace the bearing. Then again, that's the kinda guy I am. The instrument cluster went out on my wife's tahoe. I took it apart and replaced the bad stepper motors in it for $25 bucks. Most people would have paid $300+ at the dealership for a replacement cluster. Open your mind to what you can do and don't try to tell others what they can't do.
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post #48 of 82 Old 10-23-2009, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
Fropleyqk
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Originally Posted by JLSargent View Post
You probably can't do it, but If I had one with a bad bearing I would just replace the bearing. Then again, that's the kinda guy I am. The instrument cluster went out on my wife's tahoe. I took it apart and replaced the bad stepper motors in it for $25 bucks. Most people would have paid $300+ at the dealership for a replacement cluster. Open your mind to what you can do and don't try to tell others what they can't do.
I'm with you man. I just don't know if trying to tear apart the shaft and replace a bearing is cost effective. The shaft itself is only $65 or so. But hey if you can that's awesome!
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post #49 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 06:15 AM
mmf
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Originally Posted by fropleyquark View Post
Edited write up. I forgot the new seal at the base of the assembly and now have a very messy oil leak. If any of you followed this, I hope your new assemblies came with the gasket. Mine did not.
I used a standard distributor base gasket available from advance auto for the 1997-1999 4.0L cost like 2 bucks or so. Its the exact same gasket all the way up through 2006 for the base unit.
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post #50 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 11:08 AM
littledevilTJ
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Originally Posted by mmf View Post
I used a standard distributor base gasket available from advance auto for the 1997-1999 4.0L cost like 2 bucks or so. Its the exact same gasket all the way up through 2006 for the base unit.
dangit, wish had known this. i would have doen that instead of rtv. i may just get the rtv off and go get that seal.
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post #51 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
Fropleyqk
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Originally Posted by littledevilTJ View Post
dangit, wish had known this. i would have doen that instead of rtv. i may just get the rtv off and go get that seal.
I would definitely do that. I didn't etc it because I didn't want to take the chance of rtv chunks dropping down into the engine.
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post #52 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 04:12 PM
roadkill
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I think it'll be fine. mine has an rtv dressing on it and I'm not worried
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post #53 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
Fropleyqk
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
I think it'll be fine. mine has an rtv dressing on it and I'm not worried
haha thats cool that youre not worried about it... I wouldnt do it though. More than likely itll be fine but again, I dont want to take the chance of getting chunks of rtv in my engine.... but hey, to each his own. I guess its the same as rtv'ing the oil pan.... either way, Id opt for the gasket.
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post #54 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 07:25 PM
Buckster
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Originally Posted by fropleyquark View Post
Just looked up a replacement part at auto zone and the pic they have looks nothing like what Im looking at....?
didn't realize this thread had more than one page and I cant delete my post for some reason?
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post #55 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 07:34 PM
roadkill
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its on already and it was a thin layer. it takes a lot to make it break off. also by taking it off and putting a gasket on your running a risk of dropping some in the hole when you remove the assembly and scrape the block. damn if you do damn if you don't lol.
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post #56 of 82 Old 10-24-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Fropleyqk
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its on already and it was a thin layer. it takes a lot to make it break off. also by taking it off and putting a gasket on your running a risk of dropping some in the hole when you remove the assembly and scrape the block. damn if you do damn if you don't lol.
lol either way, if it doesnt leak I guess youre good.
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post #57 of 82 Old 12-16-2009, 03:20 PM
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OK, believe me or not -

There is no bearing inside of the oil pump drive assembly (at least on a 2006 LJ 4.0) AND timing the engine - even if you lose your marks or the engine moves position - does not require anything but a little trial and error (unless I got freakishly lucky).

Ask me how I know…..
So my Jeep started squealing like a stuck pig Sat Morning. I remembered this thread from some time back ( love wasting time on JF, saves soo much money…) and knew it was the oil pump drive "bearing." Called local Chysler dealer, she gave me a part number and said thet there was not one in a dealership for 400 miles. NAPA same story. Found a dealer in Kansas that had one, he shipped it to me….all is well so far.

Follow my trusty JF write up, remove the old part. Hmmm resembles the new part but is clearly not a match, no way to make it work. Rather pssd decided to disassemble the one that came off… punched out roller pin, took shaft out…………….. NO BEARINGS. The shaft spins in 2 metal bushings, a top one and a bottom one. So I cleaned and greased the shaft (there was a ring of "stuff" towards the top end of the shaft that must have been making the noise) and put it back together. Lesson 1. No bearing, don’t buy a new part until you take yours apart clean it and try it again. Mine has not made a peep since reassembly.

Tried to put it back in correctly, did not. Thought I had it seated and I did have the marks lined up - tightened it down fired it off: start sputter die damn. Did not get it seated originally, it seated when I started it, in the wrong timing. Now I have lost the reference marks (i.e., the engine is in a different position than before) and think I am up a creek. BUT - similarly to an old distributer, you can turn the housing in increments and then try to start the motor…3rd time she fired and ran perfectly. So far soo good (drove 40 miles today). Seems to be in perfect time? So I guess lesson 2 is pay attention and follow the directions so you get it back on correctly….

Any chance it is not in perfect time? Sounds perfect, power is fine, idles fine?
Sorry for the longwinded post - but if I wasted your time it is your fault for reading it!!

And there is no bearing!!!!

77 CJ5 - Sold; 05 Built KJ CRD - sold; 80 Built CJ7; 06 Silver TJ Unlimited SoftTop - OME N66/67, 934/949 - etc. - and a big black lab in the back
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post #58 of 82 Old 12-16-2009, 07:45 PM
roadkill
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what kind of grease did you use (ie is there a special grease or a preferred grease to use here)?
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post #59 of 82 Old 12-16-2009, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepinjohnboy View Post
OK, believe me or not -

There is no bearing inside of the oil pump drive assembly (at least on a 2006 LJ 4.0) AND timing the engine - even if you lose your marks or the engine moves position - does not require anything but a little trial and error (unless I got freakishly lucky).

Ask me how I know…..
So my Jeep started squealing like a stuck pig Sat Morning. I remembered this thread from some time back ( love wasting time on JF, saves soo much money…) and knew it was the oil pump drive "bearing." Called local Chysler dealer, she gave me a part number and said thet there was not one in a dealership for 400 miles. NAPA same story. Found a dealer in Kansas that had one, he shipped it to me….all is well so far.

Follow my trusty JF write up, remove the old part. Hmmm resembles the new part but is clearly not a match, no way to make it work. Rather pssd decided to disassemble the one that came off… punched out roller pin, took shaft out…………….. NO BEARINGS. The shaft spins in 2 metal bushings, a top one and a bottom one. So I cleaned and greased the shaft (there was a ring of "stuff" towards the top end of the shaft that must have been making the noise) and put it back together. Lesson 1. No bearing, don’t buy a new part until you take yours apart clean it and try it again. Mine has not made a peep since reassembly.

Tried to put it back in correctly, did not. Thought I had it seated and I did have the marks lined up - tightened it down fired it off: start sputter die damn. Did not get it seated originally, it seated when I started it, in the wrong timing. Now I have lost the reference marks (i.e., the engine is in a different position than before) and think I am up a creek. BUT - similarly to an old distributer, you can turn the housing in increments and then try to start the motor…3rd time she fired and ran perfectly. So far soo good (drove 40 miles today). Seems to be in perfect time? So I guess lesson 2 is pay attention and follow the directions so you get it back on correctly….

Any chance it is not in perfect time? Sounds perfect, power is fine, idles fine?
Sorry for the longwinded post - but if I wasted your time it is your fault for reading it!!

And there is no bearing!!!!
bearing or no bearing, I could tell a huge difference between spining the old shaft and new one by hand. The old one bound in half a turn while the new one spun like a well oiled gear. For me, $80 was worth the piece of mind that the shaft wouldnt explode sending shrapnel into the oil pan. 3k miles later, no squealing and no problems.....
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post #60 of 82 Old 12-16-2009, 10:15 PM
Jeepinjohnboy
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Id likely agree with you if the bloody part I ordered fit...

But -$20 later in shipping (to and fro) no new parts installed...Im ok with a happily running Jeep. I was far more concerned with fubared timing in the heat of the moment last night. Guess the Jeep lords were in her favor last night. If I get 4 mpg this tank Ill rethink my timing job

I used reg'ler old lithium farm greese. It turned with about the same resistance (using the trusty index finger-thumb gauge) pre- and post-greasin' ..... just didnt squeal after a greasin'

At least next time it starts squealing Ill know what part not to order...that was the thing that pssd me off the most, she straight up gave me the wrong part number..

77 CJ5 - Sold; 05 Built KJ CRD - sold; 80 Built CJ7; 06 Silver TJ Unlimited SoftTop - OME N66/67, 934/949 - etc. - and a big black lab in the back
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