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What needs to be done to spare tire holder to fit 33s?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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What needs to be done to spare tire holder to fit 33s?
Getting close to getting 33s for my 06 TJ.
1) Does anything have to be done to the spare tire holder to make the new spare fit securely? 2) Do I need to adjust or relocate the third brake light? TIA
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#2 |
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Registered User
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/33s-stock-spare-tire-carrier-587397/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f15/you-can-safely-fit-33-tire-stock-tire-carrier-door-529999/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/will-33x10-50-stock-rim-fit-stock-tire-carrier-150730/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/spare-carrier-803880/ I got a tire carrier. It's safer, and looks better.
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-Darkstar, judy-judy. I'm going in for guns. -- -Stick, splash one! |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Without a BL, you may run into interference with your bumper. Not sure what wheels you have, but my spare is on an 8" wheel with 4.5" BS. Had to add a couple of washers to the lugs under the wheel for a snug fit to the rubber bumpers. Without the washers, the door was real tight to close. Anything above 4.5 would not work without spacing the carrier out from the door. I think a 4.25" BS would fit perfect on mine. Any less and I believe you would have to space out the bumpers to contact the tire. This is for a 33x12.5 BFG MT.
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2004 Rubicon, 5-spd, RC 2.5" Lift w/RC 2.2 Shocks, 1.25" BL, MML, RC 2.2 Stabilizer, Currie Antirock, 33x12.5-15 BFG MT KMs on Black Steel Wheels, Highrock Rear Bumper, Warn Front Bumper, Warn M8000, A to Z Rocker Gaurds, Pioneer DEH P5000UB, Eclipse 4ch Amp, Infinity 6.5 and 5.5 Speakers, Factory Sub. More to come. |
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#4 |
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Demonic Jeep Freak!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, Va
Posts: 21,946
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I had no problems,but the third brake light mod (center cap)looks cool.
With the backspacing on my wheels,the tire rested on my bumper without a BL.![]() |
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#5 | |
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Drink Oregon Craft Beer!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: where I wheel: N 45º 36.663' W 123º 20.935', Oregon
Posts: 2,665
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Quote:
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1998 TJ Moss Green Sahara w/ numerous scratches & dents whose playground is on a tropical island that's 33 miles long and 4-12 miles wide, in year-round 82 degree weather. [Edit] "Now jeepin in Oregon" [/Edit] |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the replies and info.
I should have mentioned that I'm going to go with 33 x 12.5 on the stock Ravines. Checking out the 4x4xplor website now. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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will the weight of the larger spare be bad for the rear tailgate?
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OIIIIIIIO 99 TJ Sahara, 2.5 RC Lift, 32" BFG Muds.
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#8 |
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Demonic Jeep Freak!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, Va
Posts: 21,946
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#9 | |
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Drink Oregon Craft Beer!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: where I wheel: N 45º 36.663' W 123º 20.935', Oregon
Posts: 2,665
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Quote:
![]() ![]()
__________________
1998 TJ Moss Green Sahara w/ numerous scratches & dents whose playground is on a tropical island that's 33 miles long and 4-12 miles wide, in year-round 82 degree weather. [Edit] "Now jeepin in Oregon" [/Edit] |
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#10 |
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Demonic Jeep Freak!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, Va
Posts: 21,946
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#11 |
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Drink Oregon Craft Beer!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: where I wheel: N 45º 36.663' W 123º 20.935', Oregon
Posts: 2,665
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Yeah, before the BL - mine rested/supported on the bumper too. After the BL, it was totally on the gate and off the bumper. A friend of mine fabricated a piece of scrap metal to mimic the bumper's support while tying into my receiver and pintle hook.
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1998 TJ Moss Green Sahara w/ numerous scratches & dents whose playground is on a tropical island that's 33 miles long and 4-12 miles wide, in year-round 82 degree weather. [Edit] "Now jeepin in Oregon" [/Edit] |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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ive been having a hard time finding long enough bolts to extend the bumpers on the gate to reach my tire. anybody know where i can find the right length bolts? Ive tried home depot and a few local hardware stores/ auto parts stores. I'm thinking of making my own bolt by drilling thru the gate using the existing holes for the bolts and using a nut and washer on the inside of the gate while having a long enough piece of threaded rod go thru the rubber bumpers and thru the extensions i made. I just wanted to check with you guys before i did anything over the top
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#13 |
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Senior Member
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Or you can do what I did. Took a piece of 3/16" steel plate, and (here's the simplified version) bolted the plate to the tailgate, and then bolted the stock spare tire carrier to the steel plate 2.25" "higher up" so the spare tire now cleared the rear bumper (in reality you do it in reverse order; bolt the spare tire carrier to the steel plate, then the plate to the tailgate). If you look at the last picture, the bottom rubber bumpstop doesn't touch the tire. I went to a junkyard and got another rubber bumper thing and trimmed it to be an inch thick, and then placed it between the crossmember and the factory rubber bumper thing (with a longer bolt - the picture was taken before I added this). I raised the center brake light by using four shock bushings with steel inserts that I had sitting in my spare jeep parts box (don't we all have one of those boxes?) and four longer bolts from home depot. I also got carried away and drilled additional holes through the steel plate and tailgate for additional mounting strength (you can see the six bolts on the inside shot of the tailgate) and I added a few additional bolts when bolting the spare tire carrier to the steel plate. Overkill... maybe. Worth it for my peace of mind? Yes.
I have a 285/75/16" tire (33x11.5") on a 16x8" rim. Originally I bought one of those Olympic HD spare tire carriers that advertises it moves the tire up 2" and out 2". It did move the tire out 2" (so in my case it would clear the rear bumper and I could close my tailgate with the spare tire on) but it kept the tire at the same hight. It did raise the center brake light up 2", but again, not the tire. I put them both side-by-side and compared the tire studs to the mounting holes. Same hight. With my modification it keeps the tire closer to the tailgate (less leverage for putting stress on the hinges and such) compared to the Olympic HD mount, and moves it up for better angle of departure. It cost about $30 for the plate and hardware, and an afternoon of my time (and lots of drilling holes). The Olympic HD carrier (still sitting in my garage) was more than twice that. I hope this is helpful. Hopefully the pictures tell the story. ![]() Here you can see the shock bushings I used to raise the center brake light. ![]() Here you can see where the bolt heads bolting the factory spare tire carrier to the steel plate fit inside the recess on the tailgate. You can also put a few button head bolts in where the spot welds were on the factory spare tire carrier to reinfoce it as I did for the added weight of the larger spare and rim. Again, overkill? Maybe... ![]() Here you can see the steel plate sticking up a bit above the tailgate. It does not interfere with the soft top hardware or anything like that. Plus the six extra bolts bolting the steel plate to the tailgate (in addition to the factory bolts used on the outside of the tailgate bolting the plate to the tailgate). Hardware is cheap insurance. If I were to do it over again, I would have drilled the two top bolts in the tailgate about 1/4 - 1/2" higher, and the two bottom bolts in the tailgate about 1/4 - 1/2" lower. ![]() Modified it keeps the spare close to the tailgate, and well above the bumper (but not so high it's blocking my view out the back window). ![]() Last edited by armyRN; 09-11-2009 at 05:37 PM.. |
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#14 |
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Web Wheeler
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I did this for 3.75" BS and 33s. I used pvc pipe and washers to raise up the light and cut some 3/4" pine to make spacers for the rubber things. The tire cleared the bumper with my 1.2"BL. I had to use longer bolts from what i remember.
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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