Here are a couple more. I need to redo the brake line on the passenger side. Not happy with it right now. I also need to take one of the rear tires off and get a shot at ride height so the control arm angle can be seen.
Have you had it out on the trails yet? Just wondering how the setup is performing for you.
Nope, not yet. Hoping for some time in the next couple weeks. Work is all I can think about the last few weeks. Very little room left for fun stuff.
It is my daily driver and it rides far better than it did before. Much more compliance from the rear. Especially with the new Fox shocks. Worlds better than anything I've had in the past. The only down side right now is the front and rear are horribly imbalanced. I'm getting ready to start on the front though. Already have the Currie/Savvy progressive springs to go in and a new Currie Track Bar. I haven't decided if I'm going to leave the arms stock length or go a little longer.
I still don't fully understand what a 4-link is but this has got me wanting to build one.
Thanks a lot. I was trying to make it look like it was supposed to be there and not like someone cobbled it together in their barn.
A four link is just the term for how the axle is connected to the frame. There are four links all in a relatively straight line. There is actually a fifth link, the track bar, which locates the axle from side to side. There is some argument as to whether it is actually a 4-Link or 5-Link in stock form. I can't remember the general answer.
However, usually, nowadays when someone says "4-Link," he or she is usually describing the removal of the track bar from the system. This necessitates some way to locate the axle laterally. This is where the triangulation comes in. Take either the two upper arms or the two lower arms and triangulate them so they either meet over top or beneath the differential housing or on the other side. A little more to it, but that's it in a nutshell. Getting rid of the track bar results ina smoother ride and less binding. Generally speaking.
Can you elaborate or are you meaning that the front suspension is still the stock SA setup?
Well, it is stock as far as length, but I have Currie lowers, Rough Country springs, track bar and uppers. I also have ACOS spacers on springs due to my heavy Warn 8274. I plan to put my new Currie front springs and track bar on and then see where I'm at. I am going to take off the ACOS stuff and hopefully it will ride much better. I am going to shoot for 9-10" of travel in the front. As soon as I tear it apart and cycle it, I will decide on shocks. I am okay with modifying the mounts to get a longer travel shock in there.
I would like to lessen the front control arm angle either by moving the axle mounts up or by lengthening the arms or both. But I don't want my Jeep down for that long again, so might put it off for awhile.
Take either the two upper arms or the two lower arms and triangulate them so they either meet over top or beneath the differential housing or on the other side.
Triangulated lowers will converge at the frame end and will always be wide at the axle. Triangulated uppers will always converge at the axle. I've never seen it done another way, likely due to some funky numbers that would cause.....especially with converging lowers below the diff, where you'd also experience a huge loss of clearance.