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Unread 12-02-2013, 08:24 PM   #91036
chrisejandaddi
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilyBayXJ
You got a discount because your rocker guards were scraped up? That's a pretty good deal! O/T, we got 3" of snow in Northern Maine today, so I mounted my Fisher plow and cleared the driveway for the first time this year!
Ironic huh? They were pretty banged up and I had to wait on replacement hardware. Still a good deal for $74 though!

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Unread 12-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #91037
Mr_Speakeasy
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: La Puente, Ca
Posts: 458
Removed rear DS, dropped tranny skid, and installed novak cable shifter. The frame had some rust where the factory skid was so i put some rust converter on it and will paint it tomorrow before bolting the ucf skid on. Gonna check for clearence issues and get the sye installed somehow.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #91038
lockedwheels
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mboelts View Post

Holy f-ing nuts!!! $400 for an aluminum switch holder for the top of my dash? Damn that's crazy...nice looking...but crazy.
That's the truth.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:06 PM   #91039
sjones26573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mboelts View Post
Holy f-ing nuts!!! $400 for an aluminum switch holder for the top of my dash? Damn that's crazy...nice looking...but crazy.

I got the blank in dash panel, not the dashtop panel.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:39 PM   #91040
cjlinn
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Posts: 133
Found an old Speedo gear from my previous TJ and swapped it in. Still a couple miles slow. On the upside I won't get a speeding ticket and my cheap*** saved some money until my OCD kicks in and I finally buy the right gear.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 11:08 PM   #91041
RDPAYNE
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: KAILUA, HAWAII
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbradUSMC View Post
Very nice line. What tape did you use?
I used the blue scotchbrite tape if i remember correctly. I'm not sure if it helped any, but I applied the tape the night before and went over the edges many times to ensure there were no bubbles or areas where it wasn't pressed all the way down. I also put it down about 1/2" below the bottom of the door area because that's the part that is always getting hit with my size 12 getting in and out. Here are a few more pics



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Unread 12-03-2013, 02:30 AM   #91042
bbradUSMC
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Speakeasy View Post
Removed rear DS, dropped tranny skid, and installed novak cable shifter. The frame had some rust where the factory skid was so i put some rust converter on it and will paint it tomorrow before bolting the ucf skid on. Gonna check for clearence issues and get the sye installed somehow.
I was gonna ask why in the hell you would drop the skid and rear DS to do the install for a novak shifter but I see you are doing more than just that. Great mod though isn't it?
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Unread 12-03-2013, 02:34 AM   #91043
bbradUSMC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDPAYNE View Post
I used the blue scotchbrite tape if i remember correctly. I'm not sure if it helped any, but I applied the tape the night before and went over the edges many times to ensure there were no bubbles or areas where it wasn't pressed all the way down. I also put it down about 1/2" below the bottom of the door area because that's the part that is always getting hit with my size 12 getting in and out. Here are a few more pics



I can't wait to get some time to do mine. How many gallons did you use and did you go over the seam sealer or remove it? For the the bottom of the door are I am just going to stay at the last edge and bring it all the way up to the door strap mount.
I see you used ear plugs for your bolt holes. How did those work out and at what point did you pull them out. And last question, if you pulled your roll cage how was the install back on top of the ML? Did the ML crack or compress at all?
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Unread 12-03-2013, 06:21 AM   #91044
cordel0
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Posts: 1
Rearranged stock fog lights.
1376375_10202229180233838_1427657711_n.jpg  
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Unread 12-03-2013, 06:31 AM   #91045
bbradUSMC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cordel0 View Post
Rearranged stock fog lights.
Now you just need to cut your bumper down to a stubby
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Unread 12-03-2013, 07:31 AM   #91046
Richisinyoface
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Location: Wilmington, North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbradUSMC
Now you just need to cut your bumper down to a stubby
^^this^^

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Unread 12-03-2013, 10:30 AM   #91047
jeepwrangler97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00bz View Post
It feels weird, doesn't it? I had to roll FWD weekend before last until my TW shaft came in.
I did this for a month once at school until I time to fix things.

Haha, 4.6L stroker+Fwd+rain = safety
...it was interesting to say the least

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Unread 12-03-2013, 01:55 PM   #91048
RDPAYNE
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Location: KAILUA, HAWAII
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbradUSMC View Post
I can't wait to get some time to do mine. How many gallons did you use and did you go over the seam sealer or remove it? For the the bottom of the door are I am just going to stay at the last edge and bring it all the way up to the door strap mount.
I see you used ear plugs for your bolt holes. How did those work out and at what point did you pull them out. And last question, if you pulled your roll cage how was the install back on top of the ML? Did the ML crack or compress at all?
First off, Semper Fi Devil. For your questions, I didn't use any type of seam sealers, just the plain ol' 5 finger press job. I do live in Hawaii which made the install progress quickly and Monstaliner dries very fast with the humidity out here. I Monstalined my previous Jeep, so I kind of knew what to expect going into it. Might sound crazy, but i Applied the second coat in less than two hours after I got on the first one because it was drying so fast.

I only used the 1 gallon kit but I used every last drop of it but def lost some from the fruit roll up film that would be created on the top even after I resealed the can. I only did the "entry guard" spots as of right now but might go ahead and do the whole door entry part in the future. I also did the tailgate. All had two coats.

Yes I used the ear plugs to fill all of the screw holes. They worked great but in a few areas I had to combine about 3 for them to work and a few areas I had to cut them in half (long ways) because the holes were to small. I guess I could of used the rolled newspaper method but didn't have any newspaper at the time. The part that I wasn't expecting was that the liner would dry so fast so I had to "adapt & overcome" on the fly. I noticed that even after 2 hours when I was about to put on the second coat that this stuff was already drying around each ear plug, which would create problems if I let it dry any longer around the plugs once I went to remove them. I went ahead and pulled all the ear plugs after 1 coat and put new ones in, which were removed directly after the second coat was applied.

I really didn't do anything with the roll cage except for unzip the black fabric and pull it up some. I only put the liner up far enough that you couldn't see the line with the fabric zipped back down.

The tape lines for the entry guard spots were done the same way. After the first coat, I wanted to check to see how dry they were so I pulled up one piece of tape and noticed I better get this tape off quick because it was already drying. After I took the tape off, i reapplied all the tape using the same lines. I was worried that I wouldn't get the same lines but it seems it turned out all good.

All in all, I was a bit shocked how quick the liner dried this time around. My timeline looked like this:

Wednesday- took out all the interior (except for the drivers seat, it's my DD)

Thursday- Sanded, removed the permanent drain plugs both front and back, primed, M.E.K'ed, and put all the tape on Turkey day ( I highly do not recommend having any plans of this after eating yourself into a coma on Thanksgiving haha).

Friday-Starting Lining at about 0800, second coat about 1100 (after having to redo the ear plugs and tape), spray misted about 1600, spray misted again about 2200.

Saturday- Checked about 1000 and this stuff was rock hard. I know some people might say that it has to have time to fully cure. I started installing stuff like the seat belts, brackets, and other little stuff. I actually waited until Sunday to install the rest and give it one more day to dry (just in case)

Sunday- Reinstalled all the interior, center console, etc. Took it for a drive around town and have had zero problems with it since.

One note for the general pop, I sanded and repainted some of my bolts that were starting to look aged. One thing I did not redo is the rear seat brackets and now I have orange rust on the part where the seat bracket on the seat catches on the bracket attached to the floor. Looks like I know what i'll be doing this weekend. I was amazed it only took one rain with the windows out for it to look like this. Also, since this stuff was drying so fast, I missed a few spots where you are suppose to go back over to "texture" the end result and have some areas that appear to be a little flat. I've already ordered the 1 qt repair kit and will probably go back over a few areas or to have just in case.

Hope I answered everything, I just realized I kind of rambled haha. Good luck with doing it and I highly recommend. Also I seen a great idea after I did the install was to take a sharpie and outline your center console and other areas the liner will/won't be.
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Unread 12-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #91049
DezertTJ
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Took it out to stretch it's legs. Then put a price tag on the windshield finally
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Unread 12-03-2013, 02:34 PM   #91050
jeepwrangler97
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 3,609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDPAYNE View Post

First off, Semper Fi Devil. For your questions, I didn't use any type of seam sealers, just the plain ol' 5 finger press job. I do live in Hawaii which made the install progress quickly and Monstaliner dries very fast with the humidity out here. I Monstalined my previous Jeep, so I kind of knew what to expect going into it. Might sound crazy, but i Applied the second coat in less than two hours after I got on the first one because it was drying so fast.

I only used the 1 gallon kit but I used every last drop of it but def lost some from the fruit roll up film that would be created on the top even after I resealed the can. I only did the "entry guard" spots as of right now but might go ahead and do the whole door entry part in the future. I also did the tailgate. All had two coats.

Yes I used the ear plugs to fill all of the screw holes. They worked great but in a few areas I had to combine about 3 for them to work and a few areas I had to cut them in half (long ways) because the holes were to small. I guess I could of used the rolled newspaper method but didn't have any newspaper at the time. The part that I wasn't expecting was that the liner would dry so fast so I had to "adapt & overcome" on the fly. I noticed that even after 2 hours when I was about to put on the second coat that this stuff was already drying around each ear plug, which would create problems if I let it dry any longer around the plugs once I went to remove them. I went ahead and pulled all the ear plugs after 1 coat and put new ones in, which were removed directly after the second coat was applied.

I really didn't do anything with the roll cage except for unzip the black fabric and pull it up some. I only put the liner up far enough that you couldn't see the line with the fabric zipped back down.

The tape lines for the entry guard spots were done the same way. After the first coat, I wanted to check to see how dry they were so I pulled up one piece of tape and noticed I better get this tape off quick because it was already drying. After I took the tape off, i reapplied all the tape using the same lines. I was worried that I wouldn't get the same lines but it seems it turned out all good.

All in all, I was a bit shocked how quick the liner dried this time around. My timeline looked like this:

Wednesday- took out all the interior (except for the drivers seat, it's my DD)

Thursday- Sanded, removed the permanent drain plugs both front and back, primed, M.E.K'ed, and put all the tape on Turkey day ( I highly do not recommend having any plans of this after eating yourself into a coma on Thanksgiving haha).

Friday-Starting Lining at about 0800, second coat about 1100 (after having to redo the ear plugs and tape), spray misted about 1600, spray misted again about 2200.

Saturday- Checked about 1000 and this stuff was rock hard. I know some people might say that it has to have time to fully cure. I started installing stuff like the seat belts, brackets, and other little stuff. I actually waited until Sunday to install the rest and give it one more day to dry (just in case)

Sunday- Reinstalled all the interior, center console, etc. Took it for a drive around town and have had zero problems with it since.

One note for the general pop, I sanded and repainted some of my bolts that were starting to look aged. One thing I did not redo is the rear seat brackets and now I have orange rust on the part where the seat bracket on the seat catches on the bracket attached to the floor. Looks like I know what i'll be doing this weekend. I was amazed it only took one rain with the windows out for it to look like this. Also, since this stuff was drying so fast, I missed a few spots where you are suppose to go back over to "texture" the end result and have some areas that appear to be a little flat. I've already ordered the 1 qt repair kit and will probably go back over a few areas or to have just in case.

Hope I answered everything, I just realized I kind of rambled haha. Good luck with doing it and I highly recommend. Also I seen a great idea after I did the install was to take a sharpie and outline your center console and other areas the liner will/won't be.
When I did ML, it was drying about as fast as I could do it. I think my 2nd coat was less than 2 hrs as well.

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