Ordered an S35 kit, Eaton E-Locker, and 4.88's for front and rear. Will be getting her back from 4WP with new 35x12.50-15 BFG KM2's, a patched up floor pan, new fuel lines, new fuel pump and assembly, missing steering box skid installed, unbolted bump stop bolted down, new bolt in the rear trackbar relocation bracket, and every single bolt on the vehicle and piece of the lift gone over with a fine-toothed comb so as to prevent future mishaps.
Well the check engine light had come back on after just two days of replacing the O2 sensor last Saturday. But this time the code was P0138, which meant the rear unit that was replaced was faulty. Yep, new O2 sensor was faulty!!!!!
So today the faulty one has now been replaced again. All seems fine for now.
the EVIL check engine light I had an evap leak. Replaced the gas cap....no luck. Found a split hose coming off of the evap canister. I replaced it and I was good for about 300 miles....WOOHOOO...it's FIXED! FAIL!!! It came back after it rained on the Jeep a bit the other day. So, was that just a coincidence? I think I'm just going to fix this issue with a piece of electrical tape over the annoying light
removed the rust from the door handles, tailgate and windshield hinges.. painted it all a pretty black to match the rest of the jeep.. and then did the clay bar treatment on the paint.. that stuff is good!
Changed the oil, the KJ gets it tomorrow as well. Then started looking at the lack of heater blower. Pretty much all settings don't work.
I went through the FSM and the following is true:
1. Connectivity in the switch works
2. The relay works when putting power across it (tested it with a 9v battery)
3. Connectivity on the blower resistor is there but I think it is on its last legs.
I am planning on replacing the resistor but the blower is intermittent. After I fiddled with it all, all of a sudden it started working. Turned off the engine and then restarted and then it didn't. Although when it was working, the lowest speed was pretty much nonexistant.