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What did you do to your TJ today?

11M views 119K replies 9K participants last post by  OldJeepBum 
#1 ·
OK, I stole the idea from the YJ forum but it's a great idea so let this thread be an inspiration for all of us doing mods, maintenance, or repairs to our TJ's! :D

Personally, I installed my trusty Uniden CB into my new Rubicon. :thumbsup:
 
#88,842 ·
Any pictures from inside, did you just bolt through or put a backing plate?

Looks great
I used fender washers. I might have to step it up to flat stock plate though but that'll require new hardware. Maybe next summer when I paint the top
 
#88,843 ·
I used fender washers. I might have to step it up to flat stock plate though but that'll require new hardware. Maybe next summer when I paint the top
When I did the surco on my bronco, I got some thin aluminum stock from Lowe's, and used a solid piece for each side. I then drilled extra holes on each rail. Windshield sealant in each hole, silicon under the rail+ between the aluminum and fiberglass, then silicone all around the outside+bolt holes of the rail and aluminum. I had no leaks, and no problems with cracking. I was comfortable putting 125lbs plus the weight of the rack up there.

Do you have any pics of it on the jeep? I'm wanting to get a hartop and reuse my surco rack on it.

Today: I removed the cheap multiple hole trailer pin sway bar disco's. Got a hex head bolt the same size as the stock end link bolt, and a wing nut. Tightened everything, marked the bolt, drilled it out, and put a pin in to keep the wing nut from backing out. Guess what, my jeep is clunk free. Well for now...and the front feels a little tighter on the highway
 
#88,845 ·
When I did the surco on my bronco, I got some thin aluminum stock from Lowe's, and used a solid piece for each side. I then drilled extra holes on each rail. Windshield sealant in each hole, silicon under the rail+ between the aluminum and fiberglass, then silicone all around the outside+bolt holes of the rail and aluminum. I had no leaks, and no problems with cracking. I was comfortable putting 125lbs plus the weight of the rack up there.

Do you have any pics of it on the jeep? I'm wanting to get a hartop and reuse my surco rack on it.

Today: I removed the cheap multiple hole trailer pin sway bar disco's. Got a hex head bolt the same size as the stock end link bolt, and a wing nut. Tightened everything, marked the bolt, drilled it out, and put a pin in to keep the wing nut from backing out. Guess what, my jeep is clunk free. Well for now...and the front feels a little tighter on the highway
No pics yet still waiting for the rain to start probably put it on next month. Wasn't the bronco hardtop steel?
 
#88,846 ·
No it was fiberglass rear portion. I had a b2, but then later picked up an 85fsb. Sas'd the front, sitting on 35's. Damn I miss that thing, but it was too friggen big and heavy on the trails. Plus it felt like that hard top was 600 lbs
 
#88,847 ·
Installed a Teraflex Hand Throttle today. The kit works awesome, although it comes with approximately half the required hardware for a correct install.

It's great for on-hill starts, and as a low-speed cruise control over rough dirt roads. I always hated bouncing around and jerking the gas pedal. It's also nice on the highway, although it's in no way comparable to OEM cruise control. It's great for the long, empty roads of Northern Maine, though.



 
#88,848 ·
Yep. He now lives about 4 miles from me.

OT: My rough country junk started making noise from the upper rears today. Trying to decide if I want Savvy or Metalcloak to replace. Double adjustable would be nice, but I like the idea of the Duroflex joints. But JJ are very proven...... Decisions, decisions.
FYI, Metalcloak is releasing double adjustable rear uppers very soon. The guy I talked to said he didn't really see the need (set them once and you're done), but he said they have had too many requests for them not to offer them.
 
#88,849 ·
Jmo, double adjustable are just way easier to install and adjust. I half wish I had gone with them on lowers as well.

For rear especially there can be multiple times you may need to adjust, unless you blast out all possible mods and dial it to perfection all at once.

For front I am currently in the process of constant fiddling between caster and pinion, trying to get drivability sorted out.
 
#88,852 ·
Put the doors on her...it has started getting cold on the drive to and from work. Also ordered some ccfabs hood line flat fenders. Should be here next week. Does anyone know where I can buy some spray paint that matches my factory jeep paint locally? I know quadratec has it, but they are really high.
Duplicolor at autozone, oreilly or the like.
 
#88,855 ·
The ease of install is really the main reason I think for double adjustable to me. It would be super handy to be able to adjust it on the alignment rack without removing bolts. I also plan on doing a tummy tuck at some point after the new arms, so I will have to readjust after that.

Back on topic: did a little research on speakers. Both fronts are officially in the rubber surround-less territory, so that will likely be soon.
 
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