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Unread 04-01-2013, 06:39 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin_N View Post
So when installing a MML, would it be best to adjust pinion also with adjustable uppers (which I will need later on anyway when installing the SYE) to get everything as much in line as possible?
no, just leave the arms alone for now. see if the MML fixes the vibes, if not, drop the t-case down with some washers. if you're one of the unlucky folks where none of that helps, you'll just have to do the SYE.

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Unread 04-01-2013, 10:33 PM   #122
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Unlimited04 this is an awesome thread you put together. Very informative! Kudos to you sir!

I do have one thing that is leaving me confused and maybe I somehow over looked it, but here's my question. If the Rubicon's drive shaft slips within itself and has the fixed flange then why would I need to make any changes after a lift if the DC shaft also slips within itself? I think I may just found my answer.....is it only because of the double joints on the transfer case side? Also, you said that the Rubicon will most likely not need the DC, if not should I do a MML with a 2.5-3" lift first and start from there?
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Unread 04-02-2013, 06:58 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by FireMedic82 View Post
If the Rubicon's drive shaft slips within itself and has the fixed flange then why would I need to make any changes after a lift if the DC shaft also slips within itself?
more suspension travel = more movement required of the driveshaft. DC shaft = more travel & movement capable than stock shaft.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 12:19 AM   #124
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Great write-up, thanks. I'll add my stupid question:

How exactly to get the axle to roll to set the pinion angle?
I understand the control arms set the angle, but don't the stock springs and shocks resist the change in angle?
Is it as simple as jacking the rear to take the weight off the tires then installing the adjustable control arms and cranking on the adjusting sleeve?
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Unread 09-26-2013, 05:28 AM   #125
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Typically what I do is set my lower control arms where I need them to square the axle. The upper CAs are not connected at this point. Using an angle finder and hydraulic bottle jack I raise the pinion until it is directly inline with the DS. Then adjust my UCAs until the axle side bolts slide through by hand, then snug down. Next I pull the springs and cycle the axle looking for interference problems. Watch the axle on the gas tank skid and the shocks on the lower coil perches. If something hits you may need to readjust. If the shock contacts the spring perch the perch can either be notched or shock relocated. When everything clears torque all bolts and jam nuts.
Unless you relocate the upper coil perch the spring will develope a bow. The amount the axle was rotated will determine how severely the spring bows.

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Unread 01-15-2014, 06:44 PM   #126
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Can anyone tell me if the above is a CV driveshaft? My buddy and I pulled this out of his front end but I have never seen a double cardan driveshaft (much less the SYE that would accompany it) in person so we would appreciate some input.



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Unread 01-15-2014, 06:59 PM   #127
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Yes that shaft has a double cardon (cv) joint. It's the joint with two ujoints.

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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:12 PM   #128
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Thanks AATJ. I wonder why his PO bought such a crappy drive shaft lol... that thing is a rust bucket and doesn't look near as pretty as the ones shown in this thread.

Does a SYE always complement a front CV drive shaft?
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:16 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasChris View Post
Thanks AATJ. I wonder why his PO bought such a crappy drive shaft lol... that thing is a rust bucket and doesn't look near as pretty as the ones shown in this thread.

Does a SYE always complement a front CV drive shaft?
Transfer case front output is a fixed yoke not a slip yoke so nothing to eliminate. The "slip" section for the front is in the middle of that drive shaft.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:16 PM   #130
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Unread 01-17-2014, 12:39 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasChris View Post
Thanks AATJ. I wonder why his PO bought such a crappy drive shaft lol... that thing is a rust bucket and doesn't look near as pretty as the ones shown in this thread.

Does a SYE always complement a front CV drive shaft?
TJ's come stock with a front double cardon drive shaft. Probably the original which explains the rust. Still a good drive shaft though.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:40 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by bbradUSMC View Post
TJ's come stock with a front double cardon drive shaft. Probably the original which explains the rust. Still a good drive shaft though.
Makes ya wonder why they just don't put one in the rear too.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:59 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by geroux View Post
Makes ya wonder why they just don't put one in the rear too.
Because the TJ OEM NP231 comes with a slip yoke rear driveshaft output, it was cost effective...
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Unread 01-17-2014, 11:51 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Because the TJ OEM NP231 comes with a slip yoke rear driveshaft output, it was cost effective...
Is it really cheaper though? I mean, a replacement tailhousing and mainshaft is the same as a SYE kit; and the driveshaft is similarly priced isnt it?
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Unread 01-18-2014, 12:07 AM   #135
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Is it really cheaper though? I mean, a replacement tailhousing and mainshaft is the same as a SYE kit; and the driveshaft is similarly priced isnt it?
The NP231 used in multiple vehicles was cost effective. Modifying it for the TJ to eliminate the TC slip yoke would have driven the production and logistic cost up...
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