What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - Page 10 - JeepForum.com

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post #136 of 158 Old 01-18-2014, 12:41 AM
Maverickxeo
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
The NP231 used in multiple vehicles was cost effective. Modifying it for the TJ to eliminate the TC slip yoke would have driven the production and logistic cost up...
Ah, that makes sense... but why wasnt the NP231 done without slip yokes in the first place?

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post #137 of 158 Old 01-18-2014, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Maverickxeo View Post
Ah, that makes sense... but why wasnt the NP231 done without slip yokes in the first place?
Cost... IMO
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post #138 of 158 Old 01-18-2014, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Cost... IMO
If any model should have had a rear CV DS it should have been the Rubicons since they are running the NP241OR T-case which has a rear fixed flanged output. As well as upgraded axles, gears and lockers.
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post #139 of 158 Old 02-02-2014, 01:15 PM
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Bad front axle pinion angle. Double Cardan at the pinion?

I have a bad front axle pinion angle. Typical solutions are to rotate the pinion up towards the transfer case. This negatively affects the caster and maybe bump stop alignment as well as front spring bowing. Would it be better to have a double cardan joint at the pinion to complement the existing one at the front transfer case output?

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post #140 of 158 Old 02-21-2014, 07:41 AM
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This thread is awesome sauce.
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post #141 of 158 Old 04-30-2014, 08:42 PM
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Thank you, so very much!!! Time for my, now educated, upgrades!!
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post #142 of 158 Old 05-20-2014, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
not quite, LJ's can take about 4-4.5" of lift before needing a Double Cardan Shaft. I updated that section a bit to clarify.
With that said I should be okay with my stock drive shaft I only have a four inch lift with 1 inch MML with a 1.5 inch BL. I also have the factory SYE I have a Rubicon. I would like to upgrade my drive shaft so I can use 1350 u-joints I know I would need a new drive shaft, transfer case flange and rear pinion yoke. Has anybody had this done w/o a Double Cardan Shaft and had no troubles? Currently I do not have any vibration I just want a stronger drive shaft. Thanks

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post #143 of 158 Old 05-20-2014, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vooodo1 View Post
With that said I should be okay with my stock drive shaft I only have a four inch lift with 1 inch MML with a 1.5 inch BL. I also have the factory SYE I have a Rubicon. I would like to upgrade my drive shaft so I can use 1350 u-joints I know I would need a new drive shaft, transfer case flange and rear pinion yoke. Has anybody had this done w/o a Double Cardan Shaft and had no troubles? Currently I do not have any vibration I just want a stronger drive shaft. Thanks
First off if you have a Rubicon, you don't have a "factory SYE". You can't eliminate something that was never there. I thought this was made clear in the very first post. You have a fixed flange output. A SYE is a method which eliminates the slip yoke to obtain a fixed yoke or fixed flange.

lastly, if you're upgrading the driveshaft anyway, go to a double cardan. it's easy since you already have a fixed flange, no reason you wouldn't do it that way.
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post #144 of 158 Old 05-20-2014, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for setting me straight on the SYE. And as for the double cardan I am still not convinced it's worth the extra cost if you donít have extreme drive shaft angles. What is the real gain?

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post #145 of 158 Old 05-20-2014, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vooodo1 View Post
Thanks for setting me straight on the SYE. And as for the double cardan I am still not convinced it's worth the extra cost if you don’t have extreme drive shaft angles. What is the real gain?
take a picture your jeep at ride height, just like you drive around. Now drop your axle to full droop. then take another picture of your driveshaft and see what you consider "extreme angles".

remember the double cardan is capable is SIGNIFICANTLY more misalignment. The single cardan only operates in a much more narrow range.

if you still don't get it after that little experiment, I don't know what to tell you other than you're missing the boat.
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post #146 of 158 Old 05-20-2014, 10:57 AM
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One other thing - you mention "upgrading" to 1350s. In the double cardan joint (which is what you should be thinking) that is not necessarily an upgrade. I believe there is a writeup on this in the tech section on Tom Wood's website, but the increase in strength is not sufficient enough to justify the decrease in angle tolerance that the larger ujoints have.

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post #147 of 158 Old 05-21-2014, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
take a picture your jeep at ride height, just like you drive around. Now drop your axle to full droop. then take another picture of your driveshaft and see what you consider "extreme angles".

remember the double cardan is capable is SIGNIFICANTLY more misalignment. The single cardan only operates in a much more narrow range.

if you still don't get it after that little experiment, I don't know what to tell you other than you're missing the boat.
Thanks, I am on the boat now. LOL

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post #148 of 158 Old 05-21-2014, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
One other thing - you mention "upgrading" to 1350s. In the double cardan joint (which is what you should be thinking) that is not necessarily an upgrade. I believe there is a writeup on this in the tech section on Tom Wood's website, but the increase in strength is not sufficient enough to justify the decrease in angle tolerance that the larger ujoints have.
Understood, when I do upgrade with a double cardan (at this point in time not sure what u-joint size the double cardan uses) I was looking to upgrade to the 1350 u-joint at the pinion connection (which would require a new pinion yoke). However I am thinking whatever size u-joint the double cardan utilizes I should use that size in the rear to stay consistent with all the u-joints. Thanks

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post #149 of 158 Old 05-21-2014, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
remember the double cardan is capable is SIGNIFICANTLY more misalignment.
This is not true. The single joint shaft is capable of more total deflection. This is one of the most common misconceptions with driveshaft tech.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
The single cardan only operates in a much more narrow range.

This is true, and why the use of the double cards is often necessary.


If you can maintain satisfactory operating angles with a single joint shaft you are better off all day long. It's just that we don't often have that option unfortunately.
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post #150 of 158 Old 05-21-2014, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Vooodo1 View Post
Understood, when I do upgrade with a double cardan (at this point in time not sure what u-joint size the double cardan uses) I was looking to upgrade to the 1350 u-joint at the pinion connection (which would require a new pinion yoke). However I am thinking whatever size u-joint the double cardan utilizes I should use that size in the rear to stay consistent with all the u-joints. Thanks
Cv shaft is really not an upgrade. It's a necessary evil, high maintenance pain in the *** component that if you can get away without, you are better off.


1310 is enough joint but if you really want more, 1350 is it. 1350 stuff has more angle range than 1330.
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