[roundlitefan]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

This is my point exactly. I don't see how they can claim that tire size at that height and expect to be able to do anything but drive on pavement in a straight line.

You don't see how they can claim that?

They are making and selling the fenders and hood, not the axles, wheels, tires, suspension or steering components.

That is like saying a lift company is misrepresenting their 6.5" lift by claiming it will clear 37" tires.

AEV sells and makes a lot of other products, I am sure if you are that interested they can hook you up with a full new suspension to "properly" run whatever tires you want, new rims with backspacing more appropriate, and they can most assuredly steer you in the direction of some companies who will build some nice axles for you.

Just don't expect a company to make a disclaimer on a new hood and fenders that says "you should probably rebuild your whole Jeep if you buy this and expect to wheel it hard." That is a bit of a ridiculous expectation IMO.

[tavic]

Home Brew Highlines

DIY High Line Hood Mod for cheap : Higher Ground 4×4

[UltimateCC]

Originally Posted by cmoore

Do you two work for MetalCloak?

and yes but then begins the question of function. Is your frame too low (entry, breakover, exit)? High fenders are cool but....

Nope but I certainly love their products and metalcloak has been great getting me what i need for my LJ. At my bodyshop we now are a distributor of their products but that is strictly for local business and only because I really am impressed with the quality of their product. The Gen-Right are also awesome but I wanted the ability to remove the flares as I desired. I like the tube fender idea because it fits the type of wheeling i do. I am not a rock crawling guy at the moment and having lots of clearance isn't a top concern. I do plan to do a savvy TT and gain 4in of clearance and most likely a 2.5 in lift at some point for some additional clearance but who knows. I like mentioning the tube fenders because when I did my first jeep I never thought about doing them and lifted the YJ almost 7in, put waggy d44s and 35s and loved it but I wasn't happy with how it handled on the road. This time around I am paying more attention to a LCG for my own type of wheeling.

[jondotcom]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

I was looking at the AEV Highline kit last night as that look is intriguing to me (granted I couldn't swallow that price and would have to homebrew mine). The Qtec Ad claims that with it, 37" tires can be run with only 3" of lift. Here's what I don't get. Currently, I'm running a 2"BB with 33x12.50 Goodyear MTR's on Soft 8's w/4" Backspacing. Currently I'm rubbing at full cut on the sway bar. How can raising the fender line increase tire clearance by that much? Am I missing something? I really like the idea of running larger tires without massive lift.

Your particular problem is partially due to you still running the factory length end links, so as your axle moved down, so did the rear portion of your sway bar. You need a longer end link to get the sway bar up to its original angle. Adding one washer per steering stop will also help.

Second, did you ever extend your bump stops? With your setup you will bend your fenders while disconnecting your sway bar and go off road. The highline kit resolves the issue of up-travel contact on the fender, so you can retain maximum travel on a minimal lift, with a bigger tire.

[jondotcom]

Originally Posted by Emdot

x2 Im not seeing the relation to high fenders and sway bar rubbing at lock

He probably forgot to get longer end links, so his sway bar probably tilts down a the rear (and since he's been rubbing it it's probably walking from side to side now)

[jondotcom]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

I don't see how they can claim that tire size at that height and expect to be able to do anything but drive on pavement in a straight line.

Just one part of the solution. Highline generally goes with other mods such as tummy tuck, etc. A tummy-tucked high fender with no lift and 35s would have only about 2" less clearance on the skid than a 6" lifted top heavy jeep w/35s.

[0IIIIIII0]

The relation being, how does one run tires LARGER than mine when I rub already.

[0IIIIIII0]

Originally Posted by jondotcom

Your particular problem is partially due to you still running the factory length end links, so as your axle moved down, so did the rear portion of your sway bar. You need a longer end link to get the sway bar up to its original angle. Adding one washer per steering stop will also help.

Second, did you ever extend your bump stops? With your setup you will bend your fenders while disconnecting your sway bar and go off road. The highline kit resolves the issue of up-travel contact on the fender, so you can retain maximum travel on a minimal lift, with a bigger tire.

Now there's an answer. I do still have the factory links and to be honest, it never really occurred to me that that would be a problem. As soon as I read it I can see how that could cause a problem. I'll fix that this weekend.

Yes, I did extend the bumpstops. No fender destruction for me.

Originally Posted by tavic

Home Brew Highlines

DIY High Line Hood Mod for cheap : Higher Ground 4×4

That's a good idea.

[Boodyrider]

Wrong endlink length
Never adjusted steering stops
Inadequate (IMHO) BS wheel


I have flat fenders, run 33x12.50, correctly adjusted adjustable swaybar discos, 3.75 BS, and NO lift. I do not have rubbing issues short of touching the underside of the front fenders at full flex, and it's not enough for me to bother fixing, although even a 3/4 spacer would cure it.

When I go longarm, I'll add 2 1/2" springs. Then I'll be able to run 35s. At that point, I MIGHT have to adjust steering stops a bit once again, but for now I have MORE steering than stock.

[TheBoogieman]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

Sway bar is connected.



This is my point exactly. I don't see how they can claim that tire size at that height and expect to be able to do anything but drive on pavement in a straight line.

They are simpley telling you what size tires will clear.The rest is up to you.Some idiots think they need D60 axles for 31's on the street.

[mpentz1]

It kind of goes without saying (at least, it always has for me) that if you're going to upgrade everything else on a jeep and lift it and throw huge tires on it, it's retarded to think that there will not be severe consequences related to the drivetrain (be it gearing, engine-related stress, axles, etc). People are quick to note that gearing changes will be needed for XX" tires, but nothing along the lines of XXaxles with XXgears are needed for XXtires.

Or am I wrong?

Sorry for the de-rail.

[DevEmp]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

The relation being, how does one run tires LARGER than mine when I rub already.

Change the backspacing of the rims, change your steering stops, or install spacers and move the rims further out.

[jeepinmichguy_]

Originally Posted by TheBoogieman

They are simpley telling you what size tires will clear.The rest is up to you.Some idiots think they need D60 axles for 31's on the street.

so i didnt need the d60's????

[PILL]

Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy

so i didnt need the d60's????

No, you did, but only you.

[mudb8]

Originally Posted by 0IIIIIII0

The relation being, how does one run tires LARGER than mine when I rub already.

the bb is enough to make the axle off center, which will rub one side on the sway bar and cause the sway bar to stick out further..


3.5" DIY highlines on 37's