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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Water Pump Replacement
Quick question. My water pump is leaking, time to replace it. I called around to some local shops and they seem to average about $350 for parts/labor/coolant. On jcwhitney's site I can get the pump for about $60. My question is, is replacing the water pump a real pain? I have moderate mechanical skills and a Haynes manual. I recently replaced the thermostat and radiator myself, so would this be more work than that? Keeping in mind, of course, that it's about 30 outside at the high point during the day. I just have a hard time shelling out almost 300 bucks more than the part costs to have something fixed, but I don't want to get in over my head either. Thoughts?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Ask someone if you can use there garage, it's not that messy of a job, you can put cardboad down, to protect the floor, if need be.
It's a simpel job the hardest part is getting the fan off out of your way, once the fan is gone, you have tons of room. You start by loosening the fan blots, before you move anything, and then the shroud, and they come out together. It's a very stright foward job, just remember to use some teflon tape on the heater hose pipe, or tighten it good before you bolt the pump to the block, I have seen some threads, where this was overlooked. use some sort of sealer, silicone atv, on the gasket, just for insurance. and buy some new antifreeze while you have it apart, you may as well change the juice, don't buy premixed it's a rip off, you get a half a gallon of antifreeze for full price, (1 gal of antifreeze = 2 gallons, of mix) |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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It is an easy job.
Search for a write up on it and you will be golden. I have very limited skills with a wrench and was able to replace my water pump, fan clutch, and radiator with no problems in just a few hours.........
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97 TJ, Doo_Dads all over it, Somewhere in Colorado Wheeling..... |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Replacing a water pump on a TJ is simple. Really no more difficult then the radiator swap or thermostat that you say you have already done. Here is a write up.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/radiator/radiator-4.htm
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Fritz '97 TJ, 4.0L, AW-4, Flipped D300/4:1, ARB's, D44, Swayloc, RK LA, PC coils, Rancho 9000's, 33x12.5 Trxus, etc. |
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#5 |
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Member
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Easy job - even easier if you take out the radiator. Since you recently replaced the radiator, it should come out easily - unlike the OEM PITA that was rusted in place on my 97
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#6 |
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Registered User
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oh it'll be really simple... one thing to look out for that might reallly annoy you is this: on tj's, not sure which years models etc and i'm not sure if there is rhyme or reason to it, there are two kinds of pulley tension. one of them is on the water pump and the other is a tensioner spring thing. my haynes manual only covered one of those kinds and so did the chilton's and FSM. none of them addressed the other style of water pump. If things look a lot different under the hood than they do in the manual, nothing to worry about. just use common sense and you'll be fine. you'd be amazed at how little you need any manual when you just use your head!
good luck.
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[COLOR="Yellow"]Yellow[/COLOR] 2000 Sport RE 4.5 SuperFlex, 1.5in. BL, Rancho RS9000, 35x12.5x15 courser M/T, K&N, Steel Horse Tube Bumpers, Herculined Empty 12in sub box used as a cubby hole where mud doesnt get custom fiberglass safari top (used to be a hardtop then i rolled it) |
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