Water Pump Bolt Hole Ear on Engine Block Broke Off - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
jake2savage
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Water Pump Bolt Hole Ear on Engine Block Broke Off

So I was installing a new water pump on my TJ and the top right bolt threads into a little ear off the engine block and it broke off.
I was going to try cleaning it up and putting some JB weld over where it broke and hope for the best. But I wanted to drill, tap and heli coil the hole afterwards to be safe so I'm not sure if the JB weld would be strong enough to hold with all that torque.
Anyone got some creative solutions?? I read a few other threads on similar water pump problems where people just decided to install the pump sans one bolt, but I'd prefer to fix it if possible.
Thanks!
(the last two picture are upside down. sorry)

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water pump bolt 1.jpg   water pump bolt 4.jpg   water pump bolt 2.jpg   water pump bolt 3.jpg  
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 02:26 PM
Luuca
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I doubt JB weld would hold even if you did everything right on the prep. You (or a skilled welder you know) can weld that piece back on, but in my experience, welding cast iron is a crap-shoot at best. If you did find someone to weld it back on, i would move from a threaded hole to a through bolt with a nylon nut or spring washer. In this way, the torque would actually "help" hold the two pieces together as pressure from both sides, not internal pressure to hold the bolt.

To weld that piece back on, you'd probably need to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and all that entails to get a shot at the top weld at a minimum. You could make a temporary (semi-perm) bracket shaped like this "[" with holes top and bottom and run a bolt through with the nylock nut or spring washer if you just want that similar pressure on that one hole for the water pump. it would clamp it down enough to keep that section from leaking IMO, and even with the engine vibes from throttle/bumps, it should stay on as long as it runs from the top side of the water pump hole to the back of the broken section and was 1/8" steel or better.

Just sucks to see this, but it's better than a crack in the water jacket near the water pump.

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post #3 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 03:22 PM
Stinky7-11
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Watch this video, if you know a good welder it can be done. Will most likely not use the same filler but at least it seems possible .
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 04:20 PM
NashvilleTJ
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Agree with above, JB weld will not work. But, if you can get behind it there may be enough of the mounting tab left to simply put a nut with a large washer behind it.

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post #5 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 08:43 PM
JEK3
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How about just welding a piece of all-thread (or a cut off bolt) to what's left of the hole, so you convert it from a bolt holding that corner to a nut holding it? Or maybe a fully threaded bolt welded backwards in there, so the head is behind what's left of the tab so it adds strength?
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 10:31 PM
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
How about just welding a piece of all-thread (or a cut off bolt) to what's left of the hole, so you convert it from a bolt holding that corner to a nut holding it? Or maybe a fully threaded bolt welded backwards in there, so the head is behind what's left of the tab so it adds strength?
I like this idea... make it a stud of sorts. just make sure the belt is not running by that area before you commit to the stud idea.

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post #7 of 7 Old 08-21-2017, 05:07 AM
JEK3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
just make sure the belt is not running by that area before you commit to the stud idea.
If it is, it won't be for long.
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