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Unread 03-12-2014, 06:51 PM   #31
Shiftee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxracer801
I don't believe I do have other issues than my caster. I self checked the Toe and it was correct according to my Internet finding. I've done a dry steer test and ball joints and bushings look good. I don't have a drop pitman arm. - (To my knowledge) My brother in law who is a diesel mechanic has been dumb founded with it also. So with a little research I truly believe my culprit is my caster. How do I check my caster angle myself?
Someone else can probably weigh in and explain exactly why or prove that it was just coincidental but my steering improved the most when I changed the factory tie rod. Perhaps mine was rusting out internally or something but I could grab the factory rod and flex it both ways. My mechanically uneducated theory would be that small bumps or uneven road would cause it to flex and thus momentarily alter the toe...causing a little bump steer. Who knows, maybe the additional 20 pounds of tie rod made the difference, but after I changed that rod it iced my wandering/bump steer issues. I also bought that lifetime alignment deal from Firestone. Setting the toe myself isn't difficult but I wanted to get all my measurements anyway and like jerry said there's no way I could have done that at home. A single alignment was $75,they had a special on the lifetime for $125. Figured it wasn't a bad deal. Now anytime I change a tre, break something etc... I don't even have to worry about it. Plus when I get the spare change for adjustable arms it will make the process of getting my caster right that much easier.

One other thing, do you have an aftermarket damper/stabilizer? If so make sure it's not charged. For example Rancho's rs7407 is charged and will continuously push on your steering. If you hit a bump it will shift left but even on level ground it makes the vehicle a nightmare to drive.

Like I said my tie rod change may have just been coincidental and may not be based in any mechanical truth. Worked for me though.

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Unread 03-13-2014, 11:10 AM   #32
tjitis
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Fixed my problem, kept the stock control arms. Posted here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ju...l#post21194985 Hope it helps you out.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 09:27 AM   #33
motoxracer801
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I know it's been a very long time since I said anything on this topic. Just in case anyone had ever wondered, I put on JKS control arms and adjusted them out to (if I recall correctly) 16 1/4" and it didn't help. It did help a little but my jeep still goes all over the road. Matter of fact, I don't even really drive it anymore because of this. I feel like I've exhausted my options. So I bought a Yamaha r6 and the Jeep has just sat all summer. I'm buying an axle and putting the whole new (used) axle in and see if that fixes the problem. I also realized I have a dropped pitman arm so I'll be replacing that. As of so far, I have absolutely no idea what is wrong with my jeep and probably never will.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 11:26 AM   #34
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Simply adjusting the lower arms to a set length does not mean that the caster is correct. I would recommend taking the Jeep to a capable alignment shop to see what the caster is. From there you can make small adjustments and I would guess you will see improvement. There is a lot of trial and error in making a lifted Jeep drive properly.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 01:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxracer801 View Post
I know it's been a very long time since I said anything on this topic. Just in case anyone had ever wondered, I put on JKS control arms and adjusted them out to (if I recall correctly) 16 1/4" and it didn't help. It did help a little but my jeep still goes all over the road. Matter of fact, I don't even really drive it anymore because of this. I feel like I've exhausted my options. So I bought a Yamaha r6 and the Jeep has just sat all summer. I'm buying an axle and putting the whole new (used) axle in and see if that fixes the problem. I also realized I have a dropped pitman arm so I'll be replacing that. As of so far, I have absolutely no idea what is wrong with my jeep and probably never will.
Have you tried setting your toe to zero or tow out?

All of our race cars are zero or tow out. HTH.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 02:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy View Post

Have you tried setting your toe to zero or tow out?

All of our race cars are zero or tow out. HTH.
Come on Gerald, for your race cars with limited miles, always offroad and Falken standing by tire wear not an issue. For a regular guy with on road driving bad tire wear can be an issue. I know Blaine talks about using toe out as a temporary measure to stop DW while diagnosing, but is that really a valid longer term answer?
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Unread 08-30-2014, 05:43 PM   #37
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The caster setting question seems to come up a lot . For the most part they are told to go for an alignment . As smart as some of the members are here and if all of you telling people to go to a shop have done as they say, I would think their would be an abundance of alignment print outs . I am just trying to think of a better answer to give to something as simple as setting caster. How about if all of those with print outs put there Jeep on flat level ground throw a digital angle finder on something common like the heads of the bolts holding the diff cover on or the round flat spots next to the cover . Some place that is easy to duplicate and post you findings and what your print out says you have . I would think that should produce just about enough popular caster settings to provide a pretty good base line to work with or am I way off base with my thinking .
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Unread 08-30-2014, 07:14 PM   #38
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The caster setting question seems to come up a lot . For the most part they are told to go for an alignment . As smart as some of the members are here and if all of you telling people to go to a shop have done as they say, I would think their would be an abundance of alignment print outs . I am just trying to think of a better answer to give to something as simple as setting caster. How about if all of those with print outs put there Jeep on flat level ground throw a digital angle finder on something common like the heads of the bolts holding the diff cover on or the round flat spots next to the cover . Some place that is easy to duplicate and post you findings and what your print out says you have . I would think that should produce just about enough popular caster settings to provide a pretty good base line to work with or am I way off base with my thinking .
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/en...g-read-663777/

I think the problem is that each incidence of DW, shimmy, wander etc is so deeply individualized from jeep to jeep that making blanket statements becomes problematic. What is right for one jeep may not be right for the next. Factory specs dont apply to modified vehicles and in the very best case is a baseline to start from.

Alot of people getting alignments are being fooled thinking a shop is setting their vehicle up right and in the end still have wobbles and shimmies because other issues still persist.

I have a good mechanic almost next door but he does virtually nothing with lifted vehicles. I talked to him at length about my plans for the jeep and when I discussed alignment and wander and such he kind of just shrugged his shoulders and said..."well thats a jeep for you".
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Unread 08-30-2014, 07:30 PM   #39
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I was mainly addressing setting the Caster issue without have to send people to pay at a shop not really death wobble
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Unread 08-30-2014, 08:07 PM   #40
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I was mainly addressing setting the Caster issue without have to send people to pay at a shop not really death wobble
4-8 degrees..set it til u find the sweet spot. Id start smack in the middle at 6 for my lift height.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 09:06 PM   #41
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03 with 4inch skyjacker lift, 33's. I have the same "wandering" problem. I don't have DW. Feels like the rear end floats side to side and the steering, I always have to correct it at all speeds for the most part. The steering box was recently rebuilt a few weeks ago and it's really tight. Wondering if the tre's are flexing? Think I may take it in for an alignment and see what is going on with the caster and toe.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 10:53 PM   #42
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Worn/cracked control arm bushings will cause that. The axle will shift forward and back with acceleration and deceleration. Each side can shift independently causing the Jeep to steer itself.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:52 AM   #43
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4-8 degrees..set it til u find the sweet spot. Id start smack in the middle at 6 for my lift height.
You are missing my point . I have been doing it for years . I am not asking how . I know what works for me . I am just trying to come up with a way of helping out those who don't rather than sending them to a shop. Like I said post what your print out says you have and then what you get when you measure off of a spot that can be duplicated by others just for a baseline ( jeep being level ). I personally don't care about the numbers as I just reduce caster when either I get vibes or like how it feels driving and the amount of return to center the steering wheel has then Im done . Some do want to know degrees so I am trying to come up with a way to satisfy them . I am fine with mine
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Unread 08-31-2014, 12:17 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by motoxracer801 View Post
I feel like I've exhausted my options. I'm buying an axle and putting the whole new (used) axle in and see if that fixes the problem. I also realized I have a dropped pitman arm so I'll be replacing that. As of so far, I have absolutely no idea what is wrong with my jeep and probably never will.
What's your caster? We want to know. The forum has some posts about measuring your own, but you still want to capture some digital measurements from a shop, because you need to double-check your DIY alignment skills.

Does your lift kit relocate your front trackbar, or is it an adjustable trackbar that attaches at the stock mounting points?

Sometimes, you have to proceed in a trial-and-error fashion. Beginning with the stock set-up, change out parts one-at-a-time until you figure out which component in your current set-up is causing the problems.

I sort of doubt that your axle needs to be replaced? Maybe save the time and money for solving the problem?

Are your tie rod and draglink original? Are either of them bent? How much mileage do you have on TREs, balljoints, steering gear, etc.?
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:35 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Come on Gerald, for your race cars with limited miles, always offroad and Falken standing by tire wear not an issue. For a regular guy with on road driving bad tire wear can be an issue. I know Blaine talks about using toe out as a temporary measure to stop DW while diagnosing, but is that really a valid longer term answer?
Is it any different that tow in?
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