well if u think a rubi 44s are so good. go buy some to replace your dana 35.:flipoff2:
well im done arguing in your thread man but i say build ya a waggy 44. ive got one and i built it my self for a whole heck of alot cheaper than a rubi 44
last thing... the ol turd polisher hahahaha :flipoff2:.. and it looks like he wants a real 44 instead of a rubi so lets get back to the tech.
as far as steering goes u can get a kit from ballistic fab with all your DOM, inserts, hiem or 1 ton ti rod ends, and jam nuts. and to change it from 6 to 5 you need to get chevy small bearing spindles and ford hubs and rotors( that is if u are keeping the waggy knuckles or chevy flattops) ive got ballistic fab xj/ tj coil buckets and lower ca mounts, then rubicon express upper mounts and truss. ive got a 4 inch lift on my tj and i had to go back to a stock pitman arm so i could get the correct geometry on my drag link and trac bar. hope this helps ya man
. Waggy's are not an upgrade and low pinions suck in general. All this talk of "real" 44 is a joke as far as I'm concerned. After you go through the waggy and shine it up (or any other 44 for that matter), you still have the same common failure point as the 30. Everybody cries "bigger ball joints" but how often do you see 30s blow balljoints (on 35s and smaller tires) ? I've seen more Waggy's break ball joints than I have 30s. Typical waggy failure: the ujoint goes, the driver stays in it a second too long and the balljoints go, then the wheel falls off. I've never seen that happen to a 30, have you?.
I've seen way too many friends build d44s, then realize that 44s aren't an upgrade, and build a 60. If you need durability beyond the hp30, go 9", 60, or bigger.
98 XJ:4.0, AW4, HP30/8.25 4.56 Spartan/LSD, alloy shafts & joints, HD steer, SYE/CV, skids, RADesigns gated shifter, RE mix n match lift, 35"mt/rs, THOR guards F&R, weld-in custom rockers & stiffeners, custom front bumper, orfab rear bumper, THOR cowl induction, on board air, on board welder, etc