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Unread 04-25-2013, 08:12 PM   #1
JStMarie
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Boston, MA
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Vibration During Acceleration

Hey guys, could really use some help on this one.

2006 TJ 65th Anniversary edition, all stock. About 93k. No recent maintenance.

Symptom 1: Vibration that can be described as shudder during acceleration and ANY time I have my foot even the slightest bit on the gas. Stops as soon as I stop giving it gas. The vibration is somewhat mild, a slight vibration in the steering wheel coupled with a rumble throughout. (can feel it in your bones). Much increased when hitting the accelerator hard, climbing hills, or driving 40+. Feels a lot like being in too high a gear (wants to down shift), except the power is there.

Symptom 2: Squeaks/chirps also when hitting the accelerator hard. I think it's worse when turning corners, but it's difficult to be sure.

I climbed under it tonight to look at the universal joints on all shafts. The shaft from the rear axle to the transmission has no slop whatsoever, won't budge in any direction. Looks clean. The shaft from the other side of the transmission forward about a 1/2 inch of rotation (in the normal direction of rotation) but no side to side or back and forth slop (is this rotation normal?). Neither of the universal joints on the front axle shafts have any play when trying to move them, however I do have some heavy grease on the passenger side around the yoke. (see image below)

Where might this grease be coming from, should I be concerned, and more importantly could this be the cause of the vibration?

I also have some concerning fluid between the oil pan and the transmission...

I've heard of "transmission shudder" and I'm not ruling that out, but the squeaks to me point to a drive-line issue. There is an image below of the oil I found between the oil pan and the transmission. Is this normal for this model or should I definitely address it? It doesn't seem to leak enough to leave stains on the driveway, but it is sure visible on the jeep.

Your thoughts and advice would be highly appreciated.

Thanks

heavy-grease.jpg   oilpan.jpg  
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'06 Jeep Wrangler, 65th Edition, stock.
'98 Jeep Wrangler, stock.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 08:30 PM   #2
Ripper3494
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Warrenville, Illinois
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Only good way to check u joints is to pop the shaft out and check em. Sounds like rear driveshaft u joint to me.

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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #3
JStMarie
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Vibration During Acceleration

Seems your statement is a very true one Ripper3494.

I decided to pull the rear drive shaft this morning. Turns out the universal joint on the differential side was bad. Not much slop but some and some is no good. I took it for a test drive in 4 wheel high with the rear drive shaft out and the vibration was totally gone. Swung by the parts store and picked up two new universal joints. Installed the differential side joint, but decided to leave the other as it was in good shape. Some would have replaced it since they had the shaft out but honestly the shaft removes so easily I decided to leave it.

Took it for a test drive and no vibration, smooth as a babies ***. Well, smooth as a jeep should be anyway.

I took pics throughout so I'll post a writeup when I get the chance for those (like myself before today) who've never done the job before.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 01:37 PM   #4
Ripper3494
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Posts: 5,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
Seems your statement is a very true one Ripper3494.

I decided to pull the rear drive shaft this morning. Turns out the universal joint on the differential side was bad. Not much slop but some and some is no good. I took it for a test drive in 4 wheel high with the rear drive shaft out and the vibration was totally gone. Swung by the parts store and picked up two new universal joints. Installed the differential side joint, but decided to leave the other as it was in good shape. Some would have replaced it since they had the shaft out but honestly the shaft removes so easily I decided to leave it.

Took it for a test drive and no vibration, smooth as a babies ***. Well, smooth as a jeep should be anyway.

I took pics throughout so I'll post a writeup when I get the chance for those (like myself before today) who've never done the job before.
Glad you got it figured out.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
__________________
build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-26-2013, 04:11 PM   #5
JStMarie
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Rear Drive Shaft Universal Joint Replacement

Model: 2006 Jeep Wrangler, 65th anniversary edition stock, Automatic transmission.

Removal of Drive Shaft:

1 - Place the transfer case in neutral (chock the front tires, both before and aft).

2- Lift the rear of the jeep and place on stands, preferably the axle.

3 - The drive shaft is held onto the differential yoke (at the back of the jeep) with 4 bolts which hold two "straps" onto the yoke. Loosen these bolts just to ensure you can get them to move. They are 8mm bolts and should not be an issue.

4 - At the front of the drive shaft is a rubber boot. This protects the spline side of the shaft from dirt and other such evils. There is a small metal strap holding the differential side of the boot onto the shaft.



Using a pair of dikes, cut this strap off. It is easy to do without damaging the rubber boot. You can use a simple zip tie to replace it during assembly or purchase a new strap. i went with the zip tie myself.




5 - With the strap removed now remove the 4 bolts completely on the differential side while supporting the weight of the drive shaft on that end. Place to the side and now push the shaft towards the front end of the vehicle to separate the shaft from the differential yoke (you may need to tap the differential end with a rubber mallet to loosen). Angle the shaft down and then pull the shaft out of the transfer case.

6 - Carefully place the drive shaft on a work surface and tape the ends of the exposed caps on so that they do not fall off and spill needle bearings every which way.




Here is a picture of what the exposed end of the transfer case looks like after the drive shaft is removed.




In my case I did find a bad universal joint (pictured below). I dropped the jeep, threw it in 4 wheel high, and headed off down the road for parts. I wouldn't drive this way for too long as the exposed end to the transfer case I imagine could get pretty gunked up with sand and other road junk.

Pictures of blown uni joint.



and the caps after I removed the bad joint (the left cap had no needle bearings remaining at all).




There are plenty of write ups on how to remove and replace uni joints. This experience was the same, lots of banging (no special tool here) , sweating , and swearing. I used the "bang with a socket" method as imaged below.




This was a technically simple job and I hope this write up will give the next newbie the confidence to tackle it himself. Just don't be afraid to break out your man muscles if you come across a bad uni joint cause you are going to need them.
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'98 Jeep Wrangler, stock.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 09:03 PM   #6
Kayakfisher
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Havre de Grace, MD
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
Model: 2006 Jeep Wrangler, 65th anniversary edition stock, Automatic transmission.

Removal of Drive Shaft:

1 - Place the transfer case in neutral (chock the front tires, both before and aft).

2- Lift the rear of the jeep and place on stands, preferably the axle.

3 - The drive shaft is held onto the differential yoke (at the back of the jeep) with 4 bolts which hold two "straps" onto the yoke. Loosen these bolts just to ensure you can get them to move. They are 8mm bolts and should not be an issue.

4 - At the front of the drive shaft is a rubber boot. This protects the spline side of the shaft from dirt and other such evils. There is a small metal strap holding the differential side of the boot onto the shaft.



Using a pair of dikes, cut this strap off. It is easy to do without damaging the rubber boot. You can use a simple zip tie to replace it during assembly or purchase a new strap. i went with the zip tie myself.




5 - With the strap removed now remove the 4 bolts completely on the differential side while supporting the weight of the drive shaft on that end. Place to the side and now push the shaft towards the front end of the vehicle to separate the shaft from the differential yoke (you may need to tap the differential end with a rubber mallet to loosen). Angle the shaft down and then pull the shaft out of the transfer case.

6 - Carefully place the drive shaft on a work surface and tape the ends of the exposed caps on so that they do not fall off and spill needle bearings every which way.




Here is a picture of what the exposed end of the transfer case looks like after the drive shaft is removed.




In my case I did find a bad universal joint (pictured below). I dropped the jeep, threw it in 4 wheel high, and headed off down the road for parts. I wouldn't drive this way for too long as the exposed end to the transfer case I imagine could get pretty gunked up with sand and other road junk.

Pictures of blown uni joint.



and the caps after I removed the bad joint (the left cap had no needle bearings remaining at all).




There are plenty of write ups on how to remove and replace uni joints. This experience was the same, lots of banging (no special tool here) , sweating , and swearing. I used the "bang with a socket" method as imaged below.




This was a technically simple job and I hope this write up will give the next newbie the confidence to tackle it himself. Just don't be afraid to break out your man muscles if you come across a bad uni joint cause you are going to need them.

Thank you! will be checking them this weekend to see if there is any play.

Just finished installing my new starter..piece of cake.
Thanks again for the photos! definitely gave me something to compare to!
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