Using OEM steering stabilizer with Currie CurrectLync - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Using OEM steering stabilizer with Currie CurrectLync

Any tips on using the stock stabilizer with the Currectlync? Do you just press the tapered bolt out of the end of the stabilizer and use Currie's bracket instead?



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post #2 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 09:28 AM
Jerry Bransford
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Cant do that, the stud is a permanent part of the OE steering stabilizer.
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post #3 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 10:03 AM
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Just buy a cheap Monroe stabilizer. For fun, drive a bit without one just to see what difference there is.

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post #4 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 07:07 PM
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I have not used one for years . Last Currie steering lasted over 15 years .
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post #5 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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I took her for a spin without the stabilizer and I can't notice any difference at all. I had forgotten all about it until I was half way home and only then realized that it was no different. Gravel roads, back roads, and highways.

Are there any concerns running without? Increased wear on the steering gear? If so, any difference or experiences between a cheapy like the Monroe or expensive like the Fox?


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post #6 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
I took her for a spin without the stabilizer and I can't notice any difference at all. I had forgotten all about it until I was half way home and only then realized that it was no different. Gravel roads, back roads, and highways.

Are there any concerns running without? Increased wear on the steering gear? If so, any difference or experiences between a cheapy like the Monroe or expensive like the Fox?
Steering dampers do exactly that. They decrease shock and stress to rest of the front end. I would not run without one, but in almost every case it would be a Monroe parts store part.
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post #7 of 25 Old 06-17-2017, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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I figured as much.

I ordered a Monroe with a boot (hoping it'll protect slightly against the sand on the roads around here which tends to sand blast things.)!

Thanks for the help guys!


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post #8 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 05:49 AM
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I ran without a stabilizer for a short while when I switched to Currie steering. I didn't need it, but I did like the steering and handling better once the stabilizer was installed.

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post #9 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 07:18 AM
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So in the Monroe like, what part number should I look for. '01 TJ
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post #10 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 07:19 AM
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I am running this one.

Monroe SC2928 Magnum Steering Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C53XRK..._CsxfF8sCTCdjY

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post #11 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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I am running this one.

Monroe SC2928 Magnum Steering Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C53XRK..._CsxfF8sCTCdjY
That's the one I purchased too.


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post #12 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 09:15 AM
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I figured as much.

I ordered a Monroe with a boot (hoping it'll protect slightly against the sand on the roads around here which tends to sand blast things.)!
Boots that cover the shock strut just keep crap/sand/dirt/salt trapped inside against it and make it hard to wash them off.

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post #13 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 09:40 AM
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Boots that cover the shock strut just keep crap/sand/dirt/salt trapped inside against it and make it hard to wash them off.
While I've never seen damage from road salt sand blasting that he mentioned, I've definitely seen it from desert sand. If I was doing a lot of higher speed stuff in sand I'd run boots or more likely the removeable covers.
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post #14 of 25 Old 06-18-2017, 09:43 AM
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While I've never seen damage from road salt sand blasting that he mentioned, I've definitely seen it from desert sand. If I was doing a lot of higher speed stuff in sand I'd run boots or more likely the removeable covers.
Yep, not thinking of desert racing.

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post #15 of 25 Old 06-20-2017, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Nearly all of the roads here are covered with varying amounts of sand and gravel year round. For how cheap it is I suppose I could run without a boot and just see what happens. Being front and center it probably won't get the beating that shocks seem to get.

Are there any tricks to the cotter pin in the recess? I opened the pin up and just stuck half of it through. It seems that with the proper torque and how often I inspect things it really shouldn't lead to catastrophic issues. The nuts would have to back off a bit to reach the cotter pins anyway. Maybe if I removed the drag link from the pitman arm I could get it through?


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