[rdcox23]

I'm trying to figure out if this factory switch can be adapted to work with an Auburn ECTED locker.

Here's the information I have been able to find thus far:

The factory switch



The ECTED switch



Anybody have a clue how I would go about accomplishing this? If I can make this work, I don't have to cut up my dash, and it will look somewhat "factory", which is what I am going for here.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge you can share with me!

[GOLENJEEPTJ]

Your links no worky?

[rdcox23]

It's fixed now.

TTT.

[rdcox23]

What if I ran the ground wire coming back from the coil plug to jumper #4, then ran a bridge between #5 and #7? Seems like that would send power to the ECTED, then return the current back to the switch to indicate that it was on. Then the second time I hit the switch (which was originally supposed to turn on the second locker), the current would just flow from #7 to #5.

Supposedly, if you hit the switch and it lights solid, you are locked. It will blink if you are not. Do you think the signal coming back from the factory locker is 12 volts also?

And what do the letters beside the pin numbers in the diagram above mean (i.e. #7 is G304 20VT/DB)?

It seems that everything in this switch is grounded through that one wire.

I will also have to jump the panel lighting from one of the other switches. That should be rather easy though.

[numchuck]

I'm assuming that your jeep is not a rubicon . . . I don't know . . . does your wiring harness have a place for this switch to plug in to; or can you buy its mating connector . . . I'm not certain that this switch will allow any locker indicator lights on your instrument panel to function because I don't think your engine computer will "recognize" the switch, even if you do already have the connector in your harness . . . but regardless . . . that switch can be made to work -- but perhaps with less of the indicators than it would have on a rubicon . . . answer back, and then I'll draw something up, once I know more about your jeeps wiring.

[Strizzy]

A bit OT, but I find it funny how Rubicon owners are looking to add switches to control our lockers independently (which makes the factory switch useless), and a non-Rubi owner is looking to use the factory switch.

Here is a better pinout diagram


Pin 1 is obviously the ground. I'm assuming Pin 3 is the power in. I have pin 6 going to a switch to pin 1 (ground). Than in turn activates my rear locker. Same with Pin 7, running it through a switch to pin 1.
So, you may only need to utilize those 4 pins to control your lockers.
In your case, you should be able to route pin 6 or 7 to the coil plug and then the ground.

[GREASEMONKEY]

Originally Posted by rdcox23

And what do the letters beside the pin numbers in the diagram above mean (i.e. #7 is G304 20VT/DB)?

The first set of numbers relates to the circuit & harness that the wires are apart of. The second set of numbers are the wire size 20VT/DB = 20 gauge wire, Violet in color with a Dark Blue tracer stripe.

[rdcox23]

Originally Posted by numchuck

I'm assuming that your jeep is not a rubicon . . . I don't know . . . does your wiring harness have a place for this switch to plug in to; or can you buy its mating connector . . . I'm not certain that this switch will allow any locker indicator lights on your instrument panel to function because I don't think your engine computer will "recognize" the switch, even if you do already have the connector in your harness . . . but regardless . . . that switch can be made to work -- but perhaps with less of the indicator functions than it would have on a rubicon . . . answer back, and then I'll draw something up, once I know more about your jeeps wiring.

Sorry, not a Rubicon. Mine is a 2003 TJ-X. I am not worried about the indicator lights or the computer. I just want to be able to hit the switch and it turns on my electric locker in the rear. Nothing more, nothing less. If you can draw something up for me, it would be much appreciated.

And I checked to see if the harness was there for the switch last night.......unfortunately it's not. I also checked with the local stealership, and they only want $1600 for it. That's just not in my budget right now.

[base shakers]

Two things:

1: I used a pair of modified fog light switches, you can pick them up cheap from a junkyard. I was able to shave down the front and put in new backlit labels, looks good.

2: I hope you haven't purchased the ECTED yet, it is a POS.

[vector6]

Originally Posted by base shakers

I hope you haven't purchased the ECTED yet, it is a POS.

Dont hold back... tell us how you really feel..

[numchuck]

Since you don't have a rubicon, I think that all you need is contact 5 and 6 . . . verify this for yourself with an ohm meter . . . but when the switch is pressed, you should get continuity between 5 and 6 . . . the original circuit is switching a ground connection with these contacts; but you could supply +12 volts to contact 5 if you wanted, to instead have your locker operate in the manner that your schematic shows . . . if you connect 1 and 3, to ground and +12 volts, respectively; then the switch should light up when you activate your locker . . . when contact 2 is supplied with power, the backlighting of the switch is illuminated . . .

[Strizzy]

Originally Posted by numchuck

Since you don't have a rubicon, I think that all you need is contact 5 and 6 . . . verify this for yourself with an ohm meter . . . but when the switch is pressed, you should get continuity between 5 and 6 . . . the original circuit is switching the ground connection with these contacts; but you could supply +12 volts to contact 5 if you wanted, to instead have your locker operate in the manner that your schematic shows . . . if you connect 1 and 3, to ground and +12 volts, respectively; then the switch should light up when you activate your locker . . . when contact 2 is supplied with power the backlighting of the switch is illuminated . . .

Incorrect. he will need pins 6 or 7. As I said before, Pin 1 is the ground. Pin 3 is the 12V supply. Pins 6 and 7 turn the lockers on and off.
Pins 4 and 4 are used to allow locker operation once the vehicle is in 4Low and under 10MPH. Those are the safety "switches," so to say.

[BlueFlame]

The Rubi switch is a momentary On, is it not? It just sends a signal to the ECU that you hit the switch. The logic of one press, two presses etc is in the ECU. So it would only work if you hold it "on."
You can do it with the factory switch and a "latch relay."
Two lockers would require two switches and two latch relays.
(A latch relay turns on when you give it a momentary shot of power, and turns off when you again give it a momemtary shot of power.)

[rdcox23]

A local friend of mine mentioned the possibility of needing a "latch relay" to activate the locker.

It looks like I still don't have a definitive answer.

[Mitchss]

I did exactly what you are trying to do. I actually took a factory fog light switch, took the cover off, then took the cover off of a factory locker switch and put it on the fog switch. The fog switch is on/off and not a momentary switch. The covers fit the same with just a little modifying to the inside of the cover to create a tab. I have one for my front and one for my rear and I love the factory look on the dash. This was much easier than trying to modify or figure out the factory locker switch.