[Dave Taylor]

know that buying new longer control arms from a catalog is pretty pricey. From what I have read here and there, they run in the $200-300 range.
I read somewhere, sometime ago, that you can do a budget replacement of your stock TJ control arms, and go longer simply by using the control arms from a Cherokee ZJ....that they are longer, and that they fit the TJ without any problems.

I wanted to check that 'myth' to see if it is true or not, and if any of you guys have went that route, if it works for both the front and rear; and upper and lowers?

I figure there are alot of ZJs on the road, which means there are alot of ZJs in junkyards from wrecks, so it should be pretty cheap and easy to find a set of ZJ control arms there.

Also, if they do work, does anyone know how much longer they are than stock TJs? And what size lift they would best work on?

Thanks in advanced for the replys.

[igofshn]

Actually ZJ control arms are the same as TJ's. I compared my old ones to a friends and they were the same.

[Dave Taylor]

Originally Posted by igofshn

Actually ZJ control arms are the same as TJ's. I compared my old ones to a friends and they were the same.

So does anyone know of any budget or alternative replacements of longer control arms that can swap into a stock TJ?


(I really don't want to pay $300/pair for a couple of extra inches of metal....it just doesn't seem right)

[Jerry Bransford]

There's no budget version of a longer control arm available. If you want to play, be prepared to pay.

[EndlessMtnFab]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

There's no budget version of a longer control arm available. If you want to play, be prepared to pay.

I know peeps that have tried to use the Dodge 1/2 ton uppers and lowers. It's worth a shot I forget how much longer the Dodge arms are. A tape measure will give you the answer (you''ll probably need more lift than a 2 inch BB to be able to even use the Dodge arms. THAT being said, I think the aftermarkets will be better because of strength reasons.

IMO, search for used arms or price up new arms from different vendors. You might be surprised.


Joe
EndlessMtnFab

[Dave Taylor]

Originally Posted by EndlessMtnFab

I know peeps that have tried to use the Dodge 1/2 ton uppers and lowers. It's worth a shot I forget how much longer the Dodge arms are. A tape measure will give you the answer (you''ll probably need more lift than a 2 inch BB to be able to even use the Dodge arms.

Thanks for the suggestion Joe, I am running about a 3.5" spring lift now, and have both a 1" body lift, but haven't installed it yet (11 polyurethane one inch hockey pucks for 99c each)....saves about $60 bucks over the catalog nylon bodylifts, and got a better product out of polyurethane over nylon.

[JeepinBlue24]

Originally Posted by Dave Taylor

Thanks for the suggestion Joe, I am running about a 3.5" spring lift now, and have both a 1" body lift, but haven't installed it yet (11 polyurethane one inch hockey pucks for 99c each)....saves about $60 bucks over the catalog nylon bodylifts, and got a better product out of polyurethane over nylon.

Why do you want longer arms. Unless you are just talking about uppers to change the pinion angle. Longer lowers won't help anything unless you are moving your frame side arm mounts to help with angles. by adding longer arms you are pushing the front axle fwd or the rear axle backwards. under compression, they will move even more causing the tires to rub in the wheel wells. Lower arms, for example, on the RE 4.5" kit are the same length as the stockers, just beefier. You cant make them longer or you will have issues when you stuff the wheel. (This applies when using stock mounting points.)

[Dave Taylor]

Originally Posted by JeepinBlue24

Why do you want longer arms. Unless you are just talking about uppers to change the pinion angle. Longer lowers won't help anything unless you are moving your frame side arm mounts to help with angles. by adding longer arms you are pushing the front axle fwd or the rear axle backwards. under compression, they will move even more causing the tires to rub in the wheel wells. Lower arms, for example, on the RE 4.5" kit are the same length as the stockers, just beefier. You cant make them longer or you will have issues when you stuff the wheel. (This applies when using stock mounting points.)

After the lift, and after getting an alignment, I still have a slight DW from time to time; and from all the info I have read and gathered, longer CAs help get the caster back to where it should be; and it isn't adjustable with the stock TJ arms.

Also, I like the idea of beefier too, which takes me back to the first question; it was stated above that the ZJ arms are the same length as the TJ; are they identical part numbers??? or are they beefier? Perhaps that is what I read about the difference, and can't remember.

I have read that the early 97-98 TJs allowed adjusting of the caster with the bolt; but not the newer models. My DW isn't bad, and after the alignment, doesn't happen very often and I pickup on it quick and brake it down; plus I am more careful reading the potholes in the road to 'avoid' it; however, on wild occasions, when the moon is blue and the stars are crossed and hell is freezing over, my wife does have to drive my Jeep; and as much as she hates to, if she ever hit a pothole and got the DW, if she lived through it, I wouldn't when she got ahold of me.

I figured from what I have read the longer arms puts the angles back closer to stock prior to the lift; and that will help the caster and cure the occasional DW.

[Patton]

My RE non adjustable control arms are exactly 1/4" longer than stock to allow for caster adjustments when lifted over 3". If you can fabricate well it would be easy to lengthen stock arms.