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Unread 05-09-2008, 01:29 PM   #1
05moabTJ
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Upgrading front brake pads and rotors?

I just ordered EBC yellow stuff brake pads after hearing and reading about their great performance. Should I replace my stock rotors also? They are not worn or warped at all. I stop just fine now, just not as quickly as I would like with my 35's. What's the opinion on replacing rotors at the same time as pads?

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Unread 05-09-2008, 01:46 PM   #2
TheBoogieman
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Unread 05-09-2008, 01:50 PM   #3
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Depends on how worn they are.

If you are replacing the pads, you should definitely have the rotors turned. The minimum thickness is stamped somewhere on the rotor. Just take them to your local NAPA or other parts store/shop... they'll mic them out and cut them if possible.

Oh... and x2 on the Vanco kit. Very happy with mine.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 01:52 PM   #4
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I always replace both the pads and rotors. I don't like the idea of turning the rotors. IMO, this just makes them too thin, which causes more runout or warping due to the increase in heat.

Just my 2 cents
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Unread 05-09-2008, 02:24 PM   #5
FLATFENDER54
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Rotors do not need to be changed or turned just because you are changing pads (inspect them first) They do not have to be perfectly flat/smooth like a brand new set. If they are in good shape and seasoned well just change the pads. ( I wouldnt ever turn them if they dont pass your inspection just replace them.......at least thats me)
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Unread 05-09-2008, 02:31 PM   #6
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaOne View Post
I always replace both the pads and rotors. I don't like the idea of turning the rotors. IMO, this just makes them too thin...
How can turning a rotor make it "too thin" if it's still within the thickness specification stamped on the edge of the rotor? Rotors are too thin when they reach that specification, not before then.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 03:44 PM   #7
DaOne
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
How can turning a rotor make it "too thin" if it's still within the thickness specification stamped on the edge of the rotor? Rotors are too thin when they reach that specification, not before then.
I won't argue that...I just like to replace them. They aren't nearly as expensive as they used to be for a good set of rotors. I'm certainly not well educated in brakes, and much less so than a lot of you, which is why this is just my own preference

I read once about adherrent friction as a braking mechanism, why uneven deposits leading to "shudder", and why it is a vicious cycle once it happens. Even machining the rotor may not neccessarily fix the problem, because if you are overheating the rotor in localized areas -- that's not just a surface problem. As you wear the rotor metal away, the cementite inclusions remain and cause further hot spots. if you drive on the street at low brake temperatures, the braking mechanism is abrasion and you will wear away the transfer layer.

It just seems to me that anyway you cut it (literally haha), removing material from the rotor reduces its ability to dissipate heat much like a "heatsink" which has to increase hot spots and/or the possibility for warping even if it is still above the minimum thickness...no?
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Unread 05-09-2008, 03:51 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by DaOne View Post
I won't argue that...I just like to replace them. They aren't nearly as expensive as they used to be for a good set of rotors. I'm certainly not well educated in brakes, and much less so than a lot of you, which is why this is just my own preference

I read once about adherrent friction as a braking mechanism, why uneven deposits leading to "shudder", and why it is a vicious cycle once it happens. Even machining the rotor may not neccessarily fix the problem, because if you are overheating the rotor in localized areas -- that's not just a surface problem. As you wear the rotor metal away, the cementite inclusions remain and cause further hot spots. if you drive on the street at low brake temperatures, the braking mechanism is abrasion and you will wear away the transfer layer.

It just seems to me that anyway you cut it (literally haha), removing material from the rotor reduces its ability to dissipate heat much like a "heatsink" which has to increase hot spots and/or the possibility for warping even if it is still above the minimum thickness...no?

So what you're saying is you'd rather spend the money unnecessarily, on new rotors then learn something new from the folks who you claim to be more knowledgeable then you

buying new rotors every time you change pads is a waste of money!!
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Unread 05-09-2008, 03:55 PM   #9
DaOne
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Originally Posted by fish4life View Post
So what you're saying is you'd rather spend the money unnecessarily, on new rotors then learn something new from the folks who you claim to be more knowledgeable then you

buying new rotors every time you change pads is a waste of money!!
Not saying that at all...by all means, re-educate me I guess my way of thinking comes from some cars having those "throw away" rotors that didn't have much material at all to turn. Cost of turning was like $20, replacing was like $30. I just like to be safe when it comes to brakes even if it costs me an extra $30 or so.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 03:57 PM   #10
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You can find a pair of quality all-cast rotors for $30? Where? I'll buy a truckload of $30 high quality all cast rotors and sell them on eBay.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 04:03 PM   #11
DaOne
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
You can find a pair of quality all-cast rotors for $30? Where? I'll buy a truckload of $30 high quality all cast rotors and sell them on eBay.
Well, since you put it that way, I suppose you are correct. I think I actually paid around $150 for the Jeep, and $30 for the Honda...
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Unread 05-09-2008, 04:17 PM   #12
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Well, since you put it that way, I suppose you are correct. I think I actually paid around $150 for the Jeep, and $30 for the Honda...
yeah, that sounds more like it ... besides i'd rather turn my original OEM rotors several times then buy over the counter crap that probably barely meets factory specifications in terms of quality....
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Unread 05-09-2008, 04:23 PM   #13
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The OEM rotors are crap as well. Some of the over-the counter rotors are actually better than stock. There aren't very many places that actually turn rotors anymore in my town. When my rotors on my XJ were too thin to turn at 30k miles, I took them back to the dealership where I bought the Jeep and just about blew a gasket! A friend from way back was the SM there and told me they simply aren't designed to last long anymore and are considered a disposable part. Cheaper for the dealerships to replace than spend time turning.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 04:24 PM   #14
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You can find a pair of quality all-cast rotors for $30? Where? I'll buy a truckload of $30 high quality all cast rotors and sell them on eBay.
I paid $34 for a pair at Advance Auto. I have about 8000 miles on them and they are doing great so far.
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Unread 05-09-2008, 04:25 PM   #15
Jerry Bransford
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I paid $34 for a pair at Advance Auto. I have about 8000 miles on them and they are doing great so far.
Your '98 used composite rotors which are less expensive than quality all-cast rotors are that Jeep went back to using in later TJ models.
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