UPDATE: hi-amp alternator swap - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 76 Old 07-10-2012, 04:34 PM
Gary2
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whout the correct wire you wont get the benefits of the alternator swap . its all part of it besides the bad things already mentioned .

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post #62 of 76 Old 07-10-2012, 05:12 PM
02ws666
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so what size wire is needed? im not an electronics expert sorry for newb questions...

2003 Wrangler - Light Khaki Metallic - 4.0 w/ nv3550, Smittybilt Stinger, Warn M8000 Winch, 4 Hybrid lift, G2 Dana 44s w/ 4.56 and E-Locker in front 30 spline, Detroit in rear 33 spline, 33x12.5 KM2s
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post #63 of 76 Old 07-10-2012, 05:20 PM
Gary2
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I am not either which is why I did a little research when did it years ago . these and many more answers were found on this forum by using the search tool in order to not add another thread for someone to wade through when searching for an answer . I used 6 gauge if I remember correctly some say 4
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post #64 of 76 Old 07-30-2012, 11:36 PM
dragginwagon406
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I did this swap on my '98 "4.0"L last week while traveling on vacation...

The swap is straight forward with a couple of notes:
1. You will want the insulator from your current alternator as it is clocked differently than the 136A alternator. Check the pin location in the photos for the difference, the pin hole in the case is in the same location on both.
2. The pulley has an extra groove, it will work as is but why not change it out?

Both alternators will fit out the bottom with very little hassle, ask me how I know
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post #65 of 76 Old 07-31-2012, 07:31 AM
Night Wolf
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I'm content with the capacity of the stock alternator, but would prefer to find a smaller pully if available. Just a bit more speed at idle would allow it to produce a lot more current and the 4.0 doesn't spin fast enough to cause problems on the upper end. Gets annoying having the lights dim slightly when stopped at night but as soon as RPM slightly increases, they return to normal.

-Rick

-1987 BMW 528e 5spd e28 - personal Panzer for the daily driven battlefield, just broken in at 300k

-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

-2005 TJ Sport - stuff
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post #66 of 76 Old 08-05-2012, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Wolf View Post
I'm content with the capacity of the stock alternator, but would prefer to find a smaller pully if available. Just a bit more speed at idle would allow it to produce a lot more current and the 4.0 doesn't spin fast enough to cause problems on the upper end. Gets annoying having the lights dim slightly when stopped at night but as soon as RPM slightly increases, they return to normal.
I think you are over thinking this. It is not an upgrade you should pull a working alternator for. It is an upgrade that is often times cheaper than a straight replacement. Going to a smaller pulley is probably going to lead to faster wear on your alternator and your belt.

Chris

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post #67 of 76 Old 08-06-2012, 09:54 AM
Night Wolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bojang View Post
I think you are over thinking this. It is not an upgrade you should pull a working alternator for. It is an upgrade that is often times cheaper than a straight replacement. Going to a smaller pulley is probably going to lead to faster wear on your alternator and your belt.
What exactly am I over thinking?

-Rick

-1987 BMW 528e 5spd e28 - personal Panzer for the daily driven battlefield, just broken in at 300k

-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

-2005 TJ Sport - stuff
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post #68 of 76 Old 08-06-2012, 01:42 PM
TwIsTeD OfF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Wolf View Post
What exactly am I over thinking?
I think maybe he should have read your entire post before replying. LOL

A slightly smaller pulley should bump up the amperage at idle.

Please post up a source if you find one.
Thanks
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post #69 of 76 Old 08-06-2012, 04:09 PM
Night Wolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwIsTeD OfF View Post
I think maybe he should have read your entire post before replying. LOL

A slightly smaller pulley should bump up the amperage at idle.

Please post up a source if you find one.
Thanks
I think you're correct.

-Rick

-1987 BMW 528e 5spd e28 - personal Panzer for the daily driven battlefield, just broken in at 300k

-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

-2005 TJ Sport - stuff
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post #70 of 76 Old 08-06-2012, 04:40 PM
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ba...ction-1368144/

^ that's what you wanna do for a wiring upgrade. It will totally cure any dimming light issues with a stock alternator. It's all 4 guage wire with all new grounds and pos leads. I used a breaker between alt and battery for those times when I'm stuck way out in Moab. The stock wiring harness sucks.
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post #71 of 76 Old 08-06-2012, 08:34 PM
Night Wolf
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Interesting, saved that page, thanks! I'll give it a try. I notice the dash volt gauge isn't quite where it should be(little low), if it's a real volt gauge, which I doubt.

-Rick

-1987 BMW 528e 5spd e28 - personal Panzer for the daily driven battlefield, just broken in at 300k

-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

-2005 TJ Sport - stuff
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post #72 of 76 Old 08-07-2012, 12:38 PM
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My volt gauge sits just below 14 and it didn't change when I did the upgrade.
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post #73 of 76 Old 08-07-2012, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwpilot20 View Post
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ba...ction-1368144/

^ that's what you wanna do for a wiring upgrade. It will totally cure any dimming light issues with a stock alternator. It's all 4 guage wire with all new grounds and pos leads. I used a breaker between alt and battery for those times when I'm stuck way out in Moab. The stock wiring harness sucks.
What's the purpose behind the breaker?

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post #74 of 76 Old 08-07-2012, 01:29 PM
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Normally you would use a mega fuse or an ANL fuse between the alt and battery in case the regulator on the alt goes haywire and causes the alt to overcharge the battery. The stock wiring uses a fusible link to achieve this protection. I used a breaker just in case I ever need to force a recharge out in the bush or manually break the connection for whatever reason. The fusible link design uses a section of smaller gauge wire and defeats the purpose of an upgrade.
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post #75 of 76 Old 08-07-2012, 04:00 PM
Night Wolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwpilot20 View Post
My volt gauge sits just below 14 and it didn't change when I did the upgrade.
Mine dips at idle slightly, below running normal. Same time when the lights dim a bit.

-Rick

-1987 BMW 528e 5spd e28 - personal Panzer for the daily driven battlefield, just broken in at 300k

-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

-2005 TJ Sport - stuff
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