another trick I had done years ago was to install a smaller pulley on the alt that way you still had a normal idle speed but helping out the charging issue . I picked it up where you can buy under drive pulleys which was to slow down all of the things connected to the fan belt to gain some HP but then on some vehicles they found that they created charging issues and had to sell smaller atl pulleys to speed up the alternator again .
So let me get this straight, if I were to order a higher amp alternator for a 04 Durango 4.9l from advance auto or someone, it would bolt up to my 97?
Edit: No such thing as a 4.9L 04 Durango, I'm assuming whoever posted that earlier meant 4.7L.
No. Read this again.
Originally Posted by sduncan
Today my Dad and I swapped alternators on our TJs. There have been several threads lately about this but there was a bit of confusion on the earlier models. We both used Duralast alternators that we bought at Autozone. They easily bolted on with no fitment issues.
For my 98 w/ 4.0 : Autozone part #13387 136amp, is a DIRECT FIT. No changes are needed. This is an option for 1998 Dodge truck/Durango w/ 5.9 V8. Price was $147.00
For A 2003 w/ 4.0 : Autozone part #12328 160amp, is a DIRECT FIT. No changes are needed. This is for a 2004 Dodge Durango w/ 4.7 V8. Price was $121.00.
As I mentioned, for a '98 and an '03, these were direct fits and a great upgrade for the money spent.
The one for the 136 would probably work for you, pretty sure the 160 will not.
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someone asked csn this fit a 2.5?? they are very simimular to a 4.0??
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Not sure if this was asked before, but can the wrangler wiring handle the extra amps the new alt throws out?
The output of the Alternator doesn't matter for circuit wire size unless you ADD more load to the circuit /wiring in question. You could have a 1000 amp alternator as long as the LOAD your using doesn't draw more current than the wire designed to carry the current is designed to handle. The load on the end of the circuit determines what the wire size should be. For instance:
Say that A Stock OEM 55 watt headlights draws 10 amps at 14 volts, The circuit is fused at 15 amps. The current draw would be around 8-10 amps The wires in the circuit would designed to handle 15 amps without limiting current flow(overheating).
Then you purchase some 100 watt lights and install them in the same circuit. That circuit would be drawing close to 14 amps and the wires would be at their MAX current rating.
All the loads in your jeep will remain the same and will draw NO MORE current than they did with the Old OEM alternator. If you add a new circuit (like an electric Fan) you should install wires designed to carry the current draw of the new electric fan. The circuit will also be FUSED to properly protect the circuit.
The higher amp alternator shines when you turn ALL you jeep loads on. You will see less light dimming and less voltage fluctuations because the Alternator can provide the proper current for more loads.
For those that have MONSTER Stereos, some BASE Hits can draw 40 amps for a very short period of time. With all the other jeep loads on the alternator, you can easily overload a stock OEM alternator.
If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw).
This is why if you have a large stereo system and there is a long bass note, the car lights may "flicker" or dim. If they flicker that means the voltage regulator is just slower to increase the current. If they dim that means you are pulling more amps than the alternator can produce.
So if you upgrade to a higher output alternator upgraded wiring isn't necessary. However if you upgrade to a higher output alternator, and add more accessories then you should upgrade the cables. Another thing is you don't have to tear out all the cable and add big thick ones. Simply adding another larger gauge wire in parallel will accomplish the same thing.