Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 6

**Unlimited04** · 06-09-2009, 07:27 PM

NEastUnlmtd - where do you get control arm interference? front or rear? upper or lowers? frame side or axle side mount?

I didn't look at the control arm, just the track bars. Let me know where you see interference and I'll check mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

Very nice. Looks like it's ready for regear and 33's.

How is it on the highway? I know this is a ridiculous question, but notice anything with gas mileage? Your gonna love that OME kit even more after a while. Even with 80k miles on mine, it still felt great.

I haven't noticed a big change in gas mileage yet, but I haven't been keeping track. Just guessing off the Scanguage. I don't really care about mileage much anyway. Thats what my pedal bike is for. Its a 4.0L, I'm happy as long as its over 11mpg city and 15mpg hwy. I feel the wind resistance more, especially with the 42RLE's relentless search for Overdrive.

It rides awesome on the highway, even up to 80mph, especially after I got the wheel spacers back on. I have noticed more pre-death wobble with the wheel spacers tho - I've narrowed it to them for sure. They may not be perfectly balanced, or more likely it is a result of the change in scrub radius. I'm searching locally for some cheap alloy or steel 15x8 wheels w/ 4" backspacing. The reduction in caster with 31s does make the Jeep want to wander, especially around 55-65mph. It wants to follow ruts in the road, causing it to pull left slightly at times. The higher profile is definitely noticeable too, I can feel pushing more wind, and I can feel strong crosswinds causing the body to sway more. Keep in mind my roll cage + hard top makes my Jeep somewhat top heavy to me, even when I was on stock springs. I'm very cognisant of center of gravity, probably more so than most.

But overall, I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Still a great daily driver, still fits in the garage and its the tallest lift i'd ever fell comfortable with. I'll probably use these tires up, then put some 33s on aftermarket wheels, sell the Ravines, and save the Moab's for some winter tires.

Jeepguy1977 · 06-09-2009, 07:40 PM

That Rubi Crawler thing is cool....oh wait, won't work with my 32rh

**Unlimited04** · 06-09-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeepguy1977

That Rubi Crawler thing is cool....oh wait, won't work with my 32rh

you can get a Klune

a D300 + Klune will fit in a TJ. So should an Atlas + Klune. A supershort NP231 SYE + Klune may fit too.

**mudb8** · 06-09-2009, 08:47 PM

the front lower arms hang up on the shock pad mounts, the rear also hang up on the top of the axle mount with stock ca's. most round aftermarket arms clear both...

you can clearance both...

my rancho arms only hit the fronts with 26" shocks... I raised the rear lower mounts, so I clearanced them..

sorry about the small photo, took me a while to find it. must be why it wasn't in the apropriate album..

I run hard, it yank'd the mount off the axle from pounding on it...

**Unlimited04** · 06-09-2009, 08:56 PM

what should the eye-to-eye lengths be for front and rear lower CA's with 2.5-3" of lift?

**mudb8** · 06-09-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

what should the eye-to-eye lengths be for front and rear lower CA's with 2.5-3" of lift?

16" works well with stock uppers and keeps enough caster.

**elkfan2** · 06-09-2009, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

you can get a Klune

a D300 + Klune will fit in a TJ. So should an Atlas + Klune. A supershort NP231 SYE + Klune may fit too.

Why not just go 4 speed atlas?

**Unlimited04** · 06-09-2009, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elkfan2

Why not just go 4 speed atlas?

4-speed Atlas: $2875
3-speed Stak: $2900

Klune: $2600
^^damn thats expensive.

My idea:
Rubicon NV241J: $800-1000
AA Rubicrawler: $1600
Total: $2400-2600

Saves a few hundred bucks and doesn't change the drivetrain length at all.

**elkfan2** · 06-09-2009, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

4-speed Atlas: $2875
3-speed Stak: $2900

Klune: $2600
^^damn thats expensive.

My idea:
Rubicon NV241J: $800-1000
AA Rubicrawler: $1600
Total: $2400-2600

Saves a few hundred bucks and doesn't change the drivetrain length at all.

I would rather spend a few hundred more and have a gear driven transfer case, and I only had to shorten the rear drive line a half inch, so I don't think changing the drivetrain length was a big deal in my case.

**mudb8** · 06-10-2009, 12:01 AM

I'll be going after the rubicrawler also.. wont' need any new driveshafts, shift linkages... ect.

I'd say since I havn't busted the 241 yet, it'll prolly last a long time...

I do like the atlas tho.. that's for sure

**elkfan2** · 06-10-2009, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudb8

I'll be going after the rubicrawler also.. wont' need any new driveshafts, shift linkages... ect.

I'd say since I havn't busted the 241 yet, it'll prolly last a long time...

I do like the atlas tho.. that's for sure

If I had a 241 I wouldn't replace it for an Atlas, but by the time you buy a used 241 and add a rubicrawler to it its getting too close to the price of a brand new atlas 4 me.

**Unlimited04** · 06-10-2009, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elkfan2

If I had a 241 I wouldn't replace it for an Atlas, but by the time you buy a used 241 and add a rubicrawler to it its getting too close to the price of a brand new atlas 4 me.

but you can put a 241 in for the same price as a SYE installed. Run it for several years, then add a Rubicrawler for less than half the cost of Atlas 4-speed once you figure new driveshafts, tub hammering and linkages. I can't afford a Rubicrawler or an Atlas right now. But a NV241J + $20 used Rubicon front driveshaft + 1310/1330 u-joint + Tom Woods rear shaft is doable, and will work forever if I want. Once I do get the money saved for a Rubicrawler, I can install it with zero changes to the drivetrain.

Compare that with an SYE in the NP231, a Teralow in the NP231, then blowing it up. Then going to an Atlas. Thats very spendy for the same result.

klimb2xs · 06-10-2009, 09:45 AM

What do you have planned for the 241 linkage? Factory or aftermarket? I thought about reusing my factory stuff, but I did not like the feel of the engagement. After having the Novak 231 shifter I went with their new 241 cable shifter.

**Unlimited04** · 06-10-2009, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klimb2xs

What do you have planned for the 241 linkage? Factory or aftermarket? I thought about reusing my factory stuff, but I did not like the feel of the engagement. After having the Novak 231 shifter I went with their new 241 cable shifter.

Interesting, i'll look into that. I was just going to fabricate something if necessary or bend the stock linkage to make it work. Do you have any pics of the cable shifter?

klimb2xs · 06-10-2009, 07:06 PM

Here is the only picture I have of it.

It uses the stock lever so you don't have to bend the shift arm like the old models.