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Unread 05-18-2009, 09:34 PM   #46
mudb8
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1 3/16" drop...

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shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
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Unread 05-19-2009, 10:45 AM   #47
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
1 3/16" drop...
interesting. how long are the bolts??? I've got a 1" tcase drop I made...just need to buy the bolts from McMaster.

This makes me wanna cry! Called around & priced stuff on the internet yesterday - ~$440 labor for a SYE install, $160-230 for the SYE itself, $290 for the driveshaft...then I'll still need adjustable uppers and shock relocators to rotate the pinion angle. But, I'm soooo close to no vibes...course thats with a hard top, 400lbs of tools, a full tank of gas and a bike hanging off the hitch - but the vibes are very minimal.

I just don't want to polish a turd - for the $1300-1500 w/ tax I'd have in the NP231, I could get a used Rubicon NV241OR w/ a double cardon shaft & adjustable uppers.
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Unread 05-27-2009, 09:13 PM   #48
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Homemade T-case drop -

Material: 6061-T611 solid 1" x 2" aluminum <--use T6 or better only!!!

I didn't radius the edges like shown in the drawing, I simply didn't care that much. It would make it a little more 'pretty' tho. I ended up having to overbore the front two holes to allow for wiggle room.

Installed:


New driveline angle:


No more vibes!! Kinda sucks that I have a tummy tuck w/ a t-case drop...but at least I've got a much beefier-than-stock setup. Haven't tried 4wd yet, but I'll probably need to adjust the shifter linkage. Muffler & tailpipe does hang down lower, but I don't care unless it causes problems...so I'm going to leave it for now.

*** I'd like to thank scotch740 for his flat t-case build thread linked here. I used his drawing to determine the bolt pattern to make this t-case drop. And I used 4x4xplor for the procedure.

EDIT: oh yea, bolts I got from www.mcmaster.com. They are Grade 10.9 M12x1.75, 60mm long, fully threaded. Used 1/2" Grade 8 washers. Nutserts were no problem thanks to suggestions from this forum...PB Blaster + propane torch + 2 ft cheater bar. Some bolts were fine but some were rusted bad.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 05-27-2009 at 10:14 PM..
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Unread 05-27-2009, 10:27 PM   #49
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sorry I missed that question.. I still have the stinking box with the bolts laying next to my chair!

looks good...
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 05-28-2009, 12:32 AM   #50
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Unlimited04, do you know how the LJ specific springs compare to the HD springs on the OME lift? The reason I ask is because I just got an LJ on monday, and I'd like to put my OME HD lift from my TJ onto it.
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Unread 05-28-2009, 03:30 AM   #51
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I am fairly surprised you are getting vibrations. I have nearly the same setup in the terms of height differences, but different brands of parts.

It furthers proves how every Jeep is different.

How do you like the new brake pads and rotors? I am considering those as well even though they cost so much.
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Unread 05-28-2009, 05:43 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
sorry I missed that question.. I still have the stinking box with the bolts laying next to my chair!

looks good...
its all good thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7 View Post
Unlimited04, do you know how the LJ specific springs compare to the HD springs on the OME lift? The reason I ask is because I just got an LJ on monday, and I'd like to put my OME HD lift from my TJ onto it.
If you've got a LJ, you want at least the 949 rear springs (LJ specific) to get 2.5" of lift, especially if you've got heavier accessories or plan to add them. I've got a Kilby gas tank skid (~80lbs) and a heavy tire carrier (~120 lbs), and I like to be able to haul lots of heavy gear.

member "-sean-" has an LJ with OME's soft springs, but take a look at his rig, he's going to for a specifc Low Center of Gravity on big tires look.

Another popular option for those front accessories (winch + bumper) is to add 934 ZJ springs, but these will yield more than 2.5" of lift. My friend has this setup, with a lot of heavy accessories - he added 1.5" spacers to the rear to sit level when towing a trailer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexia View Post
I am fairly surprised you are getting vibrations. I have nearly the same setup in the terms of height differences, but different brands of parts.

It furthers proves how every Jeep is different.

How do you like the new brake pads and rotors? I am considering those as well even though they cost so much.
First, You have a RC 2.5" lift. I highly doubt you really got 2.5" or more out of it. Its designed for TJ's, not heavier LJ's. Secondly, I have a JeepMedic tummy tuck which gains 2.5" of clearance over stock. So like I mentioned before, I'm seeing about 5" of lift (6" before settling) at the driveshaft before the t-case drop - well into the SYE/CV territory for an LJ. Clearance at the t-case skid after settling was 14.125", now with the drop its 13.125", giving 2" of clearance with the t-case drop over stock w/ TT.

New pads and rotors have been on for nearly 15k now, working awesome. gotta heat them up in the morning with some quick stops as I pull out of my complex, but the hotter they get the better they grip. If you don't warm them up before driving in cold winter (< 30*F) they can be a bit worrysome if you have to panic stop from 50mph. The complete opposite happens on hot days in traffic - because you're heating the brakes up...you get up to 50mph and panic stop and your face will be on the windshield.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 05-28-2009 at 05:55 AM..
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Unread 05-28-2009, 07:45 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
First, You have a RC 2.5" lift. I highly doubt you really got 2.5" or more out of it. Its designed for TJ's, not heavier LJ's. Secondly, I have a JeepMedic tummy tuck which gains 2.5" of clearance over stock. So like I mentioned before, I'm seeing about 5" of lift (6" before settling) at the driveshaft before the t-case drop - well into the SYE/CV territory for an LJ. Clearance at the t-case skid after settling was 14.125", now with the drop its 13.125", giving 2" of clearance with the t-case drop over stock w/ TT.
I am getting exactly 2.5" of lift with the hard top in place. With the soft top the rear sits 3" higher than stock. My tummy tucker gave 2.75" of ground clearance and moved the transmission up about 1.5". About 4" of effective lift against the drive shaft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
New pads and rotors have been on for nearly 15k now, working awesome. gotta heat them up in the morning with some quick stops as I pull out of my complex, but the hotter they get the better they grip. If you don't warm them up before driving in cold winter (< 30*F) they can be a bit worrysome if you have to panic stop from 50mph. The complete opposite happens on hot days in traffic - because you're heating the brakes up...you get up to 50mph and panic stop and your face will be on the windshield.
I should consider swapping out my unknown brand pads and such then.

Good luck with the build!
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Power Door Locks with Keyless Entry

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Unread 05-28-2009, 09:17 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
This makes me wanna cry! Called around & priced stuff on the internet yesterday - ~$440 labor for a SYE install, $160-230 for the SYE itself, $290 for the driveshaft...then I'll still need adjustable uppers and shock relocators to rotate the pinion angle. But, I'm soooo close to no vibes...course thats with a hard top, 400lbs of tools, a full tank of gas and a bike hanging off the hitch - but the vibes are very minimal.

I just don't want to polish a turd - for the $1300-1500 w/ tax I'd have in the NP231, I could get a used Rubicon NV241OR w/ a double cardon shaft & adjustable uppers.
If you installed the lift by yourself (and changed your own brakes), you can install a SYE and save yourself the $440 in labor.

I did one in my driveway, with all hand tools, leaving the case in the Jeep. I am not very mechanically inclined, but the instructions (at least from AA) are good. You need lock/snap ring pliers and a torque wrench, but the ones from Harbor Freight continue to work for me.

Plus, why are you leaving out labor to install that new NV241OR you are going to buy for the same price? If you can install that, the SYE will be a walk in the park and take significantly less time. Also, you'll need a new driveshaft either way.
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Unread 05-28-2009, 10:03 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
Plus, why are you leaving out labor to install that new NV241OR you are going to buy for the same price? If you can install that, the SYE will be a walk in the park and take significantly less time. Also, you'll need a new driveshaft either way.
Well the NV241J has a 1.25" wide chain and 6 planetaries, plus 4:1, vs the NP231J with 1" wide chain and 3 planetaries with 2.72:1. The NV241is also significantly stronger than the NP231 w/ SYE.

I'd like to get a NV241J, so that I can get a AA Rubicrawler later. I'll then have a 4-speed box for less than the price of a 2-speed Atlas...1:1, 2.72:1, 4:1, and 10:1. I'll likely never use 10:1, but I'll use 2.72:1 on trail rides, and 4:1 in rock crawling. Plus the driveshaft on a NV241J is bolt on.

I'd pay for labor for a SYE because the t-case is still under warranty, and if something happened, I'll need that install receipt as proof for jeep. But I still think putting $1500 into a NP231 is a waste of money (for me anyway).

Last edited by Unlimited04; 05-28-2009 at 11:04 AM..
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Unread 05-28-2009, 10:57 AM   #56
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Great thread, lots of good info.
How are things looking for tailpipe vs shock?
& shocks vs. spring cups?


WITH the re3.5s:
I have my tailpipe hacked after the muffler and have been putting off a remedy because of the routing issues I see along the tank/passenger shock. At full droop with the Currie relocators my shock moves back toward the tank a bit, as it becomes more vertical, cutting into the best path of the pipe. I keep looking at the passenger side in front of the CA bracket for a pipe exit but the Jeep isnt exactly a 70s nova so I plan to do the right thing and thread it back and out the cornerish. With a less drastic hoop over the rear.
Before the relocators I had about 1/4 between shock and cup just sitting level and clangs on droop. The shock taped the exaust too at times.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 09:53 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Well the NV241J has a 1.25" wide chain and 6 planetaries, plus 4:1, vs the NP231J with 1" wide chain and 3 planetaries with 2.72:1. The NV241is also significantly stronger than the NP231 w/ SYE.

I'd like to get a NV241J, so that I can get a AA Rubicrawler later. I'll then have a 4-speed box for less than the price of a 2-speed Atlas...1:1, 2.72:1, 4:1, and 10:1. I'll likely never use 10:1, but I'll use 2.72:1 on trail rides, and 4:1 in rock crawling. Plus the driveshaft on a NV241J is bolt on.

I'd pay for labor for a SYE because the t-case is still under warranty, and if something happened, I'll need that install receipt as proof for jeep. But I still think putting $1500 into a NP231 is a waste of money (for me anyway).
Not arguing that the NV241J is a better t-case and without a slip-yoke, but it's not $1500 better than the 231 (231 failures are not that common).

I've also been there, done that on warranty work. I understand your concerns, but from experience I think you're concerns are invalid.

But if you are seriously thinking of 241 + rubicrawler ($1500 + whatever the RubiCrawler is $1200? + install), you could also just add a Klune to your 231 and save money in the long run.

To me, the $500 you'd spend on the SYE and driveshaft and if you install it yourself, would be worth it for the strength advantage, the fact that you could lose the spacers, and add a stronger driveshaft. Plus, 231s with SYEs installed are more easily salable and you could recoup most, if not all of your SYE price if and when you upgrade down the road.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 08:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
Not arguing that the NV241J is a better t-case and without a slip-yoke, but it's not $1500 better than the 231 (231 failures are not that common).

I've also been there, done that on warranty work. I understand your concerns, but from experience I think you're concerns are invalid.

But if you are seriously thinking of 241 + rubicrawler ($1500 + whatever the RubiCrawler is $1200? + install), you could also just add a Klune to your 231 and save money in the long run.

To me, the $500 you'd spend on the SYE and driveshaft and if you install it yourself, would be worth it for the strength advantage, the fact that you could lose the spacers, and add a stronger driveshaft. Plus, 231s with SYEs installed are more easily salable and you could recoup most, if not all of your SYE price if and when you upgrade down the road.



I sure wish I hadn't left the camera on the tool box today... pics of a 231 I tore apart today, the customer said it was making a little noise.. for the cost to fix it, a 241OR could be bought... the 231 is a waste of funds IMO. the klune adds way to much length for the drive line... it'll bind up even with a 1350 high angle cv with 3" of lift.


pics tomorrow... lol
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 05-30-2009, 08:25 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post


I sure wish I hadn't left the camera on the tool box today... pics of a 231 I tore apart today, the customer said it was making a little noise.. for the cost to fix it, a 241OR could be bought... the 231 is a waste of funds IMO. the klune adds way to much length for the drive line... it'll bind up even with a 1350 high angle cv with 3" of lift.


pics tomorrow... lol
my thoughts exactly. A Rubicrawler + NV241J gives you a great gearing combo and doesn't add any length to the drivetrain.

The search for a sub-60k 03-06 NV241J under $800 shipped to my door has begun
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Unread 05-30-2009, 09:59 PM   #60
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So, no shock relocators or exhaust mods in the "comprehensive" plan then?
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