Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 3

LJameson · 05-17-2009, 09:54 PM

mudb8, are the drive shafts on TJ's ''timed'' or not? What I'm getting at is do you need to mark the position of the drive shaft before you remove it?

**Knuckelhead** · 05-17-2009, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudb8

nothing wrong woth cam bolts and they don't cost 150 bucks... a little tack weld does wonders...

I had to put these in last week to correct a 3.5" re that has adjustable uppers... it wasn't enough including cutting off the end of the threaded shaft to make the upper even shorter...

Isn't he talking about the rear axle?...

**Knuckelhead** · 05-17-2009, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

or that fluid is going to spill all over.

Not on a TJ NP231...

**Unlimited04** · 05-17-2009, 10:08 PM

can't i just pull the driveshaft off without touching the slip yoke in anyway? like by pulling the u-joints off or something? or is that even more trouble than its worth?

**spyder6** · 05-17-2009, 10:16 PM

you have to remove the rubber boot between the shaft and the output shaft for it to slide off. it weighs about 35-40 lbs so be careful to not catch it with your face.

fluid wont come out of the transfercase, the slinger is protecting the bearing and seal on the back.

**mudb8** · 05-17-2009, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

mudb8, are the drive shafts on TJ's ''timed'' or not? What I'm getting at is do you need to mark the position of the drive shaft before you remove it?

only the slip shafts like the rubi or cv shafts. they need to be in phase, not necessarily marked tho.. the wranglers are fixed and slide in and out of the extention housing of the t-case

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead

Isn't he talking about the rear axle?...

yep, and the front has a wobble that may be needing some caster to fix... that's the stink I was making about the cams.. In the rear they are a real PITA..

**Unlimited04** · 05-18-2009, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead

Isn't he talking about the rear axle?...

the theory is i've got two things going on. Pre-death wobble and t-case vibes. trying to divide and concur...which may need FWD to diagnose.

Shakey · 05-18-2009, 10:38 AM

I'd also check the control arms as a cause for any wobble. I know that once I added my lift after about two years of wheeling it stock, the bushings in my stock arms were shot and were the sole cause of death wobble. After I installed my Currie arms, problem solved. The way you describe your problem is exactly how mine started, FWIW.

I would also add rocker guards ASAP, assuming you plan on wheeling it places like Spring Creek, Wheeler Lake or Holy Cross. I know that even with 3" of lift and 33s, those three trails routinely abuse the rocker guards on my Unlimited.

irishgearhead · 05-18-2009, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

The ZJ tie rod is in the "Next on the List" section. I've been doing mods methodically in stages with a finally goal in mind, but funds are short right now.

BUT...the GOOD NEWS...FINALLY got the rear shock in!

It took 4+ hours and several idea attempts, chisels, BFH's and a case of beer, but one weld-nut is busted off and one is drilled through and mangled pretty good. I didn't have enough Class 10.9 or Grade 8 washers, so we ended up stacking a bunch of Grade 2 or less washers to get me home. The bolts torqued just fine to ~25 ft-lbs, the recommended spec, so I'm going to run it like this for a while and watch for problems.

Got 400+lbs of tools in the back right here (still sits level!):

I've decided to drive around with all my tools in back for a week to try to settle the springs a bit.

I also re-centered the rear axle today. Its still slightly pushed to the drivers side, but I don't think I can get it much better. One more turn on the JKS track bar may push it too far the other way.

The BAD NEWS - I've got vibes and a steering shimmy. I'm going to get the tires balanced and re-torque the front track bar some more tomorrow.

The vibe symptoms - slight steering wheel shimmy/wobble under 40mph - very tolerable. BUT - as soon as you hit 48-50mph the steering wheel shimmy hits, the vehicle doesn't become uncontrollable, but its definitely two hands on the wheel and annoying as hell. I didn't get over 55mph - and its worse under throttle, 3rd gear or OD don't matter - vibes the same. Steering wheel just shimmy's and vibes side to side rapidly. Goes away after getting below 45mph. DEATH WOBBLE? OR SYE/CV??

Until this thing settles, I'm getting ~3.5" of lift from the 2.5" lift kit, and I've got a TT

.

did you set the toe an 1/8 inch out? thats what fixed mine.

LGriffith · 05-18-2009, 02:05 PM

I have the same steering wheel shaking problem as you I believe. Atleast it sounds the same. I got back from Rausch and my steering wheel wasn't centered so I think I messed up the alignment.

I'll wait until I get my front track bar before I get it aligned though. Not enough shaking to be a problem yet...

**Unlimited04** · 05-18-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irishgearhead

did you set the toe an 1/8 inch out? thats what fixed mine.

the desired toe isn't effected by the lift or tire size. you do need to adjust it, but it should remain in the stock spec range. As I stated in post #1, a laser alignment was done, and as I stated in post #8, the toe is at 0.15/0.14 degrees (L/R).

The steering shimmy is 99% fixed. I over-torqued the track bar and put the stink arm on a crescent wrench w/ locktite to the JKS adjustment nut. Had the tires balanced, they were both road force balanced and were 1-2oz off. The Jeep pulls to the left slightly and wanders more, but I expected this due caster decrease w/ 31s.

I've still got vibes from the driveline, but its not bad at all. Tolerable, but since I know thats the t-case vibrating itself to death, I'm going to start with stacking washers.

The new thing is every time I hit a big bump going slow, when the front axle drops and rebounds, I get a loud clunk. No idea what that is.

Shakey · 05-18-2009, 06:50 PM

I had the same lift and front diff cover, but different track bar, but mine did the same thing. It was the track bar hitting the diff cover. (that's one of the many reasons I ditched the OME springs as well).

Did you loosen any control arms when you added the lift? If so, did you re-torque them?

**Unlimited04** · 05-18-2009, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shakey

I had the same lift and front diff cover, but different track bar, but mine did the same thing. It was the track bar hitting the diff cover. (that's one of the many reasons I ditched the OME springs as well).

Did you loosen any control arms when you added the lift? If so, did you re-torque them?

did not loosen any control arms. I'm pretty sure its not the track bar hitting the diff cover - no signs of hitting my diff cover, no paint marks - and my stock track bar did hit the diff cover, so I know what to look for. I also added bumpstops to the front, which should help keep the track bar off the diff cover.

Maybe shocks? I had no idea what the torque spec is on the upper shock mounts, OME's instructions just said three turns past the poly beginning to compress, whatever the heck that means. Give me a quantitative spec and I'll hit it, this qualitative spec sucks. I just compressed them till there was over 1/2" of stud thread sticking out.

**mudb8** · 05-18-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

I've still got vibes from the driveline, but its not bad at all. Tolerable, but since I know thats the t-case vibrating itself to death, I'm going to start with stacking washers.

your's for shipping if you want it....

**Unlimited04** · 05-18-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudb8

your's for shipping if you want it....

that 1"? for 2003+ metric bolts right?