yea, i'm not crazy about how high it sits actually. I tried to do spring under axle, but there was only like 1/2" of uptravel and it wasn't going to work unless i fabricated new spring mounts. so....i had to do spring over. I could have gotten the frame about 3" lower if I outboarded the springs, but that would have been even more work. I will eventually hang a spare tire, storage and fuel/water cans under the frame to keep the COG low.
I pulled it on the road up to about 40mph, and my friend followed me. he said it pulls well centered and straight behind the jeep like belongs there.
Progress is looking good on the trailer. I had similar issues with my "bomb shelter" build and went spring over so I could match tires/rims with the Jeep. I'm at 28" clearance between ground and bottom of main frame currently. BUT, I've had it fully loaded a few times with pretty heavy loads, then pulled across uneven terrain-no issues, with the Lock and Roll hitch, it did very well. Better than expected even so I'd say you have nothing to worry about. Load it smart and you'll be fine. Looking at adding dual batteries to mine now for welder and winch duties... Probably going under the body, just above the axle for both batteries with leads running up to the tongue box for welder hookup, and whatever else I need there. We'll see how it works. Trying to keep any additional weight as low as possible. Likely have water tanks recessed in the frame as well at some point. How much does that weigh and are you adding sides? Looks pretty light-nice work!
Trying to keep any additional weight as low as possible. Likely have water tanks recessed in the frame as well at some point. How much does that weigh and are you adding sides? Looks pretty light-nice work!
been poking around on ebay the past hour and thinking of hanging an 120mm mortar ammo box or two under the frame for storage....thought i could shove water containers or fuel in there maybe. something with doors on both sides or pull out drawers would be perfect...hmm...
I'm not positive on how much it weighs...I'm guessing around 250lbs as you see it. I can lift the whole back end off the ground by hand if the tongue is supported, but I need to eat my wheaties beforehand .
Yes, I'll be adding sides. Something M416/Adventure Trailer style...1" thin wall tubing frame, a CJ tailgate and I haven't decided what I'll skin it with yet. the tub & floor will be removable if all goes to plan. Sheet metal is so freaking expensive, and I don't really want to have to pay big bucks to get it bent on a press...
How much angle are on those shocks?? How effective are they?? Can you mount the upper mount in front of that crossmember?? Might have to use some short shocks though. Hard to tell in the pic...
I doubt they'll be the most efficient shocks . The angle is pretty bad, but it's leaf spring, so the springs will move back with the shackles some anyway. I did try to mount them in front of the crossmember, they were too long...and I didn't want to mess with a shorter shocks. I may get a set of 2-4" lift XJ rear shocks if I can find a set for cheap enough.
The AT Chaser's have their shocks at a similar angle. If it bounces a lot or becomes a problem, I'll cut em off and move them...which won't be too hard since the tub, floor and all, will be removable with a few bolts.
Well, I know you weren't asking me, but I LOVE my Duratracs. My Jeep is mostly a DD, I get offroad once a month at most. They are very quiet on the street. They seem to be wearing well.
Traction is good, in snow and mud. They are fine in the rocks so far. I'm a little worried about the thinner sidewalls, but most of the rock that we see is more rounded granite up in the Sierras (Rubicon, etc.). Haven't torn anything yet.
I run mine between 23-25 on the street, and usually down to 12 PSI offroad. In the deep snow last month I went lower (8 PSI).
For my uses, unless something new comes out, I would buy the Goodyear Duratracs again.
Unlimited04 how do you like your Duratracs? If you were to purchase new tires would you stay with them?
I like the Duratrac's, I'd buy them again. My only complaint is they don't come in 33x10.50R15 or 35x12.50R15. I wouldn't call them "very quiet", but they are definitely quiet compared to other hybrid AT/MT options. They work well for the DD/weekend warrior who sees a wide variety of seasons & terrain, like myself. No issues with sidewalls or keeping balance over time, unlike the previous BFG's. As to their rock-worthiness, I've rubbed off much of the markings on the side, if that tells you anything. For instance, you can barely read 33x12.50R15 on some of them.
Originally Posted by -sean-
Hey Sean Did you get a new wheeler yet? I've been very busy with work...so the trailer is not getting much attention. Things will slow down in a few weeks, and I hope to get it finished for wheeling season.
Luckily a few weekends ago I got the end caps on the frame rails welded on and the base of the tub frame started. No pictures...doesn't look much different than before. I'll get more pics next time.
I also got another interesting project in the works....a used AutoMotion Performance supercharger kit...they were based in Denver area back in 2005-ish, but have since went out of the business. They claimed 265 hp/330 lb-ft w/o IC, and 315hp/390 ft-lbs "Stage 2". It's a Procharger C2 head unit model, which is still in production and used on Nissan 350Z's. Guy I bought it from had it bolted to 4.0/42RLE/4.88s/35s and could light up both tires from a stop...I couldn't even do that on 31s. Bracket puts the blower over the alternator. Tuning will be handled via Unichip (already installed) and possibly 28 lb Ford injectors. May try w/ stock injectors and see what A/F looks like on the dyno. Pulley locations aren't disrupted, and you can remove the longer belt, reinstall stock belt, bypass blower and just suck air through the centri if need be. As you know Sean, I'm not looking to squeeze every drop of performance out of this, I just want to be able to hold 65mph going up I-70...with my trailer
The AutoMotion kit got some bad reviews based on what I read online, and I see why. Mounting bracket & pulley spacers were problematic...giving bad pulley/belt alignment. I bought some stuff from McMaster and had to visit the junkyard to get pulley spacers off ZJ/XJs to make it all work.
However, my favorite problem was this:
I wanted to see how many people would catch the problem.
Notice the standard Bosch diverter valve has no vacuum reference connection, and is mounted to the intake side of the supercharger.
Yeah, got an 05' Rubicon (see sig). Actually just got done removing the BL and MML a few minutes ago. One hour flat.
I like the supercharger idea, I will be keeping an eye on how that goes. I knew a guy with a similar set-up and he loved it, said the 42rle was no longer an issue.
What kind of boost are you planning on running?