[Imped]

Build looks great. I would also add a ZJ tie rod into the mix or even better yet, Currie.

[rubidriver]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

Am I the only person in the world that hasn't broken those off? Even at 120,000 miles when I did my lift, the bolts came out no problem. And they were the original shocks...

You pretty much have the build sheet of what I wanted to do to my TJ. I'm probably going that same route when I get back into one too. Maybe even get into an LJ if theres one in my price range.

It helps to not be in the rust belt, but even here in Texas it has happened to me. The bolts are horrible quality that they put in there, they break very easily. It will probably happen to you eventually.

[LJameson]

Originally Posted by rubidriver

It helps to not be in the rust belt, but even here in Texas it has happened to me. The bolts are horrible quality that they put in there, they break very easily. It will probably happen to you eventually.

What surprises me even more is my Jeep was from Illinois. I just got lucky. My next Jeep is going to be low miles, and the first thing I'll do is take off the bolts on the suspension that are notoriously a PITA and coating them with anti-seize.

[rubidriver]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

What surprises me even more is my Jeep was from Illinois. I just got lucky. My next Jeep is going to be low miles, and the first thing I'll do is take off the bolts on the suspension that are notoriously a PITA and coating them with anti-seize.

I would take them off and go to the hardware store and replace them with something harder and/or plated bolts. Sometimes stainless is the way to go depending on the application.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by imped4now

Build looks great. I would also add a ZJ tie rod into the mix or even better yet, Currie.

The ZJ tie rod is in the "Next on the List" section. I've been doing mods methodically in stages with a finally goal in mind, but funds are short right now.

BUT...the GOOD NEWS...FINALLY got the rear shock in!

It took 4+ hours and several idea attempts, chisels, BFH's and a case of beer, but one weld-nut is busted off and one is drilled through and mangled pretty good. I didn't have enough Class 10.9 or Grade 8 washers, so we ended up stacking a bunch of Grade 2 or less washers to get me home. The bolts torqued just fine to ~25 ft-lbs, the recommended spec, so I'm going to run it like this for a while and watch for problems.

Got 400+lbs of tools in the back right here (still sits level!):

I've decided to drive around with all my tools in back for a week to try to settle the springs a bit.

I also re-centered the rear axle today. Its still slightly pushed to the drivers side, but I don't think I can get it much better. One more turn on the JKS track bar may push it too far the other way.

The BAD NEWS - I've got vibes and a steering shimmy. I'm going to get the tires balanced and re-torque the front track bar some more tomorrow.

The vibe symptoms - slight steering wheel shimmy/wobble under 40mph - very tolerable. BUT - as soon as you hit 48-50mph the steering wheel shimmy hits, the vehicle doesn't become uncontrollable, but its definitely two hands on the wheel and annoying as hell. I didn't get over 55mph - and its worse under throttle, 3rd gear or OD don't matter - vibes the same. Steering wheel just shimmy's and vibes side to side rapidly. Goes away after getting below 45mph. DEATH WOBBLE? OR SYE/CV??

Until this thing settles, I'm getting ~3.5" of lift from the 2.5" lift kit, and I've got a TT .

[Unlimited04]

Oh, and on the ride - I think it rides BETTER than stock. Thats right...BETTER. Its softer, and the shocks control the axle awesome on bumps...it GLIDES over washboards that used to shake the crap outta my Jeep just a week ago. I ain't making that up either - I've driven this 04 since new.

The center of gravity feels a bit high...I want to put my wheel spacers back on once I get the shimmy/vibes figured out.

[rubidriver]

Looks like you need SYE/CV and have symptoms of pre DW. A good balance will most likely fix your wobble. The increased angles because of the lfit has made your slightly unbalanced tires more noticable (I would be willing to bet). Discount Tire is the only place I could find that gave a good enough balance to stop my wobble. And its a lifetime balance.

[mudb8]

ya might end up stuffing in some cam bolts to get some more caster...

[Knuckelhead]

Originally Posted by mudb8

ya might end up stuffing in some cam bolts to get some more caster...

Cam bolts, no. Adjustable control arms, yes...

[LJameson]

Originally Posted by rubidriver

I would take them off and go to the hardware store and replace them with something harder and/or plated bolts. Sometimes stainless is the way to go depending on the application.

That was also on my list too. I can't remember what grade the bolts were on my TJ when I put the OME shocks in.

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

The vibe symptoms - slight steering wheel shimmy/wobble under 40mph - very tolerable. BUT - as soon as you hit 48-50mph the steering wheel shimmy hits, the vehicle doesn't become uncontrollable, but its definitely two hands on the wheel and annoying as hell. I didn't get over 55mph - and its worse under throttle, 3rd gear or OD don't matter - vibes the same. Steering wheel just shimmy's and vibes side to side rapidly. Goes away after getting below 45mph. DEATH WOBBLE? OR SYE/CV??

Until this thing settles, I'm getting ~3.5" of lift from the 2.5" lift kit, and I've got a TT .

Double check the track bar again. And as said, get the tires balanced and ask them to use the Road Force machine. The workers will complain about it being a PITA to use, but it gets the balancing PERFECT. The driveline angle is probably causing it too, but just wait til the lift settles before you do anything. You also might have to get the alignment done again, if the settling difference is big enough.

3.5" before it settles is exactly how my OME kit was. It was so goofy looking with 31" tires, I could fit myself in between the wheel and the wheel well.

[mudb8]

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead

Cam bolts, no. Adjustable control arms, yes...

nothing wrong woth cam bolts and they don't cost 150 bucks... a little tack weld does wonders...

I had to put these in last week to correct a 3.5" re that has adjustable uppers... it wasn't enough including cutting off the end of the threaded shaft to make the upper even shorter...




they only shorten to 15.5".. unless you hack on em to get the joint to screw down all the way..



sorry about filling your thread... tho I know you're interested in all you can learn..

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by mudb8

sorry about filling your thread... tho I know you're interested in all you can learn..

Its all good. Keep the useful discussions coming, its how I learn stuff

I think I'm going to try fixing the steering shimmy first, then see if I can fix the vibes w/ washers or my homemade 1" 6061-T611 t-case drop.

My next question is how do I remove the rear driveshaft? I've never removed a driveshaft before, let alone one on a stock NP231.

[mudb8]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

Its all good. Keep the useful discussions coming, its how I learn stuff

I think I'm going to try fixing the steering shimmy first, then see if I can fix the vibes w/ washers or my homemade 1" 6061-T611 t-case drop.

My next question is how do I remove the rear driveshaft? I've never removed a driveshaft before, let alone one on a stock NP231.

unbolt the rear yoke, cut the metal band on the boot and yank..

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by mudb8

unbolt the rear yoke, cut the metal band on the boot and yank..

crap. that sounds like its means I can't put the shaft back in, or that fluid is going to spill all over.

[mudb8]

it might drip a little... use a zip tie on the boot.