Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 15

**crqflier** · 12-18-2009, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

I'm hoping I can ditch the t-case drop with the Currie upper arms...guess theres only one way to find out for sure. Besides, I don't mind drilling, my muffler isn't in the way

^

phittie1100 · 01-23-2010, 01:45 PM

Good thread - I took my trans swimming at 69k miles, and as you might imagine it was not happy. The trans shop that rebuilt it for me has turned out to be the biggest group of idiots I have ever had to work with, plus they will not install a bung in the pan, claiming it will eventually leak and the mod would void their rebuild warranty. The NAPA T-adapter is exactly what I was looking for - the one concession I got out of the trans shop was them installing a HD trans cooler, but I am having regular trouble with the trans burping up fluid when it gets hot. I need the temp guage so I can see what it is doing, the T-adapter should not give them any cause for grief. My popup is big and heavy, and still running stock 3.73 gears with my 33s does not help the trans run any cooler, especially on hilly, back roads.

toddallen · 01-24-2010, 12:35 PM

Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.

**Unlimited04** · 01-24-2010, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddallen

Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.

Post #130 - Kilby Body Clamz

That what you mean?

toddallen · 01-24-2010, 02:36 PM

No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.

**Unlimited04** · 01-24-2010, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddallen

No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.

i painted the body with undercoating and flat black paint.

toddallen · 01-24-2010, 02:45 PM

I C thanks

**Unlimited04** · 01-25-2010, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddallen

I C thanks

it doesn't look bad...if people make fun of it, i'll pull out a tape measure and show them belly clearance of 4" lift & 33s, with 2.5" of lift & 31s... the enormous bike rack hitch looks worse, lol.

**rubidriver** · 01-25-2010, 02:34 PM

I forsee 35s in the near future sir.

CCJ · 01-25-2010, 03:29 PM

this thread is full of win

CCJ · 01-25-2010, 03:38 PM

10 characters

**Unlimited04** · 01-25-2010, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubidriver

I forsee 35s in the near future sir.

you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!

HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either.

**Unlimited04** · 02-01-2010, 07:29 PM

I think my B&M gauge crapped out. It's been behaving weird, spiking temps from 140 to 240 in an instant, so I pulled out the multimeter. The sensor gives a nice consistent resistance (about 530 Ohms for ~120 degrees). I can watch the resistance change with temp, so I don't think its a problem. The gauge output to the sensor keeps fluctuating widely....it gives 5.xx volts one sec, then 12.xx volts, then 10.xx volts the next. So the gauge shows 140*F one sec, 240*F the next. Needle bounces all over the place.

Gonna take it apart tomorrow, call Summit or B&M and see what I can figure out.

ankyle62 · 02-01-2010, 11:15 PM

posting to find this later for post #69, good info.

**Imped** · 02-01-2010, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!

HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either.

I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.