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01-23-2010, 12:45 PM
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#211
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Burton, MI
Posts: 496
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Good thread - I took my trans swimming at 69k miles, and as you might imagine it was not happy. The trans shop that rebuilt it for me has turned out to be the biggest group of idiots I have ever had to work with, plus they will not install a bung in the pan, claiming it will eventually leak and the mod would void their rebuild warranty. The NAPA T-adapter is exactly what I was looking for - the one concession I got out of the trans shop was them installing a HD trans cooler, but I am having regular trouble with the trans burping up fluid when it gets hot. I need the temp guage so I can see what it is doing, the T-adapter should not give them any cause for grief. My popup is big and heavy, and still running stock 3.73 gears with my 33s does not help the trans run any cooler, especially on hilly, back roads.
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Paul - 2004 Wrangler Unlimited
VP - GLFWDA
KD8PAV
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01-24-2010, 11:35 AM
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#212
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 11
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Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.
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2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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01-24-2010, 01:03 PM
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#213
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddallen
Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.
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Post #130 - Kilby Body Clamz
That what you mean?
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01-24-2010, 01:36 PM
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#214
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 11
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No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.
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2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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01-24-2010, 01:44 PM
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#215
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddallen
No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.
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i painted the body with undercoating and flat black paint.
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01-24-2010, 01:45 PM
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#216
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 11
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I C thanks
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2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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01-25-2010, 11:46 AM
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#217
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddallen
I C thanks
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it doesn't look bad...if people make fun of it, i'll pull out a tape measure and show them belly clearance of 4" lift & 33s, with 2.5" of lift & 31s... the enormous bike rack hitch looks worse, lol.
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01-25-2010, 01:34 PM
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#218
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 2,265
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I forsee 35s in the near future sir.
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2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - OME N66/N67 - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16 MTZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigj1974
your money will go farther in College Station.
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01-25-2010, 02:29 PM
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#219
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In your interwebs?
Posts: 1,843
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this thread is full of win
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01-25-2010, 02:38 PM
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#220
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In your interwebs?
Posts: 1,843
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10 characters
Last edited by CCJ; 01-25-2010 at 06:56 PM..
Reason: double post
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01-25-2010, 03:54 PM
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#221
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubidriver
I forsee 35s in the near future sir. 
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you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!
HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either. 
Last edited by Unlimited04; 01-25-2010 at 05:16 PM..
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02-01-2010, 06:29 PM
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#222
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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I think my B&M gauge crapped out. It's been behaving weird, spiking temps from 140 to 240 in an instant, so I pulled out the multimeter. The sensor gives a nice consistent resistance (about 530 Ohms for ~120 degrees). I can watch the resistance change with temp, so I don't think its a problem. The gauge output to the sensor keeps fluctuating widely....it gives 5.xx volts one sec, then 12.xx volts, then 10.xx volts the next. So the gauge shows 140*F one sec, 240*F the next. Needle bounces all over the place.
Gonna take it apart tomorrow, call Summit or B&M and see what I can figure out.
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02-01-2010, 10:15 PM
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#223
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: El Cajon, CA
Posts: 313
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posting to find this later for post #69, good info.
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02-01-2010, 10:27 PM
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#224
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Balls
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 17,082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!
HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either.  
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I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.
__________________
OlllllllO
Float Test Build
IndyORV
If you see a dead picture link of mine and would like it fixed, please PM me the link to the post and I'll fix it. Thanks
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02-01-2010, 10:48 PM
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#225
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankyle62
posting to find this later for post #69, good info.
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or you can just click the link in my sig
Quote:
Originally Posted by imped4now
I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.
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$12 for 2 Clevite bushings or $160 for the Currie conversion kit....yea so considering i'm a student again...the $12 Clevites won. i'm trying to build this thing for as cheap as possible including regear labor, gears, TrueTrac, master install kit, new ball joints, new unit bearings & truss.
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