Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 39 - JeepForum.com

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post #571 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 08:11 AM
djcrab
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Originally Posted by TJDaveX View Post
Nice job on the tire carrier. Nice job on the tailpipe too. Thanx for your tips and suggestions on the Bestop carrier on another thread. I've saved and printed your post and it's now in the box with the Bestop instructions. lol. I have a tap and die kit. Hopefully, I have all the right sizes.

As far as the Dynomax exhaust, I put the 2.5 turbo catback on my Jeep and I can barely tell any loudness difference from stock (which is what I was looking for). It has a deeper tone, but that's about it. Uhh, that was until I had to hack it off at the muffler due to clearance issues with my goofy rear end set up. I'm still working out a solution.
Anyone have an idea where Unlimited's tips and suggestions are for the bestop tire carrier? Just ordered one this weekend so additional info is always nice. Just hard to go thru threads on mobile sometimes. Thanks.

Sent from the LJ

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post #572 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 09:16 AM
owen3544
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Build looks good man, simple and functional

2000 2.5L 5 speed, 8.8/HPD30 with chromos and spartan locker, 4.88s, UCF UHC t case skid, full Currie adjustable arms with jj, Currie antirock, Currie steering, 4" RC Springs, 1.5"BL, RE front/rear trac bars, SYE/CV, 35" MTZ's
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post #573 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djcrab View Post
Anyone have an idea where Unlimited's tips and suggestions are for the bestop tire carrier? Just ordered one this weekend so additional info is always nice. Just hard to go thru threads on mobile sometimes. Thanks.
IIRC, basically I said the hardware sucks. Plan on replacing everything with grade 8 from your local hardware store. The stuff they include is supposedly grade 8 (based on the markings on the bolts), but the quality is junk...lots of burrs on the threads. And the hardware you do have to use, plan on chasing all the threads with a die set. I had to buy a die for big 3/4" bolt, which was $20, but I already had a tap/die set for the smaller stuff.

Also pay really close attention to how you install & set it up. Take your time. That's key to a good installation. I didn't exactly follow their instructions either.


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post #574 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 12:48 PM
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Get new rivet nuts too!!! I had a top one fall apart and now the whole carrier rattles. It was great when it was new. I'm going with an exogate when I get my corner armor though.
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post #575 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by mike_dippert View Post
Get new rivet nuts too!!! I had a top one fall apart and now the whole carrier rattles. It was great when it was new. I'm going with an exogate when I get my corner armor though.
yes, i forgot about that. i also had a Bestop included rivnut bite the dust during installation. I replaced them with more heavy duty inserts from a local hardware store.

Bottom line: It's a good design, but the hardware included isn't serviceable.


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post #576 of 711 Old 09-17-2013, 01:45 PM
djcrab
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Thanks guys. I'll definitely go thru and replace the hardware.

Sent from the LJ
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post #577 of 711 Old 10-19-2013, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
is it loud like a train horn? had one on my semi, it was sweet!
Update: the Wolo Dominator horn died....that didn't take long. only one trumpet makes noise, and it sounds like somebody stepping on a duck. piece of *****. Emailed them about it, no response.

It's junk, don't buy anything from Wolo. waste of $100.


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post #578 of 711 Old 01-01-2014, 04:00 PM
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Curious as to how you're liking your spring/shock combo and if they've lost any length over the years? I'm thinking I may look into changing mine out this spring as I'm not liking the po installed rc set. I doubt I'll go to any bigger of a tire with my trans so I figure 2.5-3" is roughly where I want to stay with a 33" tire.

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post #579 of 711 Old 01-05-2014, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by djcrab View Post
Curious as to how you're liking your spring/shock combo and if they've lost any length over the years? I'm thinking I may look into changing mine out this spring as I'm not liking the po installed rc set. I doubt I'll go to any bigger of a tire with my trans so I figure 2.5-3" is roughly where I want to stay with a 33" tire.

Sent from the LJ
very happy with the spring choice overall. For the holidays, I actually drove the Jeep essentially empty for 1300 miles then turned around and drove it fully loaded back to Colorado, for a total of 2600+ miles. Several hundred pounds of crap in back of the Jeep, with an 1800 lb trailer in tow. The airbags and OME 949 rear springs really handled the load well. No trailer brakes here, so the Vancos were getting a work out.



One of the rear shocks is getting weak, but that's because it has a big baseball size dent in it from when my exhaust got mangled in the rocks. I've planned to relocate the rear shocks, but it's low on the list and other stuff has been taking precedence.

For those of you that don't live in the salted road areas...imagine driving on a dusty dirt road at 70mph. Visualize the dust, now replace it with salt that eats metal. Welcome to the midwest and why vehicles rust out so fast.

This was one day on the highway:


and yes, that's a new-to-me inherited toy....well used, but in good shape, Polaris 500 EFI Touring ATV....for hunting & more adventures to come


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post #580 of 711 Old 01-05-2014, 07:04 PM
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Nice purchase! For those who haven't experienced ATV's, it's right up there with the best of offroading in the jeep!

Bob's boring build:


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post #581 of 711 Old 01-05-2014, 09:18 PM
Hosejockey61
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Several hundred pounds of crap in back of the Jeep...
Hey if that Polaris counts as part of the "several hundred pounds of crap", then I'd certainly take it off your hands!
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post #582 of 711 Old 01-05-2014, 09:19 PM
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And if that means your Jeep has to get parked outside now, wouldn't it just be easier to store the ATV in MY garage? I'll have the wife park outside...
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post #583 of 711 Old 02-06-2014, 11:03 AM
djcrab
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
very happy with the spring choice overall. For the holidays, I actually drove the Jeep essentially empty for 1300 miles then turned around and drove it fully loaded back to Colorado, for a total of 2600+ miles. Several hundred pounds of crap in back of the Jeep, with an 1800 lb trailer in tow. The airbags and OME 949 rear springs really handled the load well. No trailer brakes here, so the Vancos were getting a work out.

One of the rear shocks is getting weak, but that's because it has a big baseball size dent in it from when my exhaust got mangled in the rocks. I've planned to relocate the rear shocks, but it's low on the list and other stuff has been taking precedence.

For those of you that don't live in the salted road areas...imagine driving on a dusty dirt road at 70mph. Visualize the dust, now replace it with salt that eats metal. Welcome to the midwest and why vehicles rust out so fast.

and yes, that's a new-to-me inherited toy....well used, but in good shape, Polaris 500 EFI Touring ATV....for hunting & more adventures to come
Thank you for the response. Sorry for the late reply as I was TDY for January and did not get on here much. That is probably the combo that I am leaning towards. Probably research for another month or two before doing anything.

As for ATVs, love them! Going to my parents back in OK this weekend and my son is all for riding them all day even though it's freezing outside. Summer before last we took the toy hauler and 5 four-wheelers to Taylor Park in CO for a week. Probably the most fun and relaxing vacation I've been on.
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post #584 of 711 Old 04-05-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
had some death wooble symptoms the other day, so decided to check the track bar. broke the axle side front track bar bolt this morning checking the torque....today wasnt my day. Spent 5 hours screwing with the t-case linkage too....

The stock track bar bolt is 10.9 and has 9mm shaft, but M10 (10mm x 1.5) threads....which is why its so loose inside your track bar bushing.

Stock Bolt Shaft (9mm):


Stock Threads (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Shaft (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Threads (10mm):


This makes no sense to me, because the OD of the non-thread shaft should be the same as the major diameter as the threads, not the minor diameter. Every bolt you buy at the hardware store is like this, but Jeep's bolt isn't. And the hole is drilled to 7/16" - so its a custom metric bolt in a standard drilled hole. Whatever, typical Chrysler engineering...crap like this is why they went bankrupt.

So the local hardware store doesn't have any hex head 10.9 bolts because they are morons. they only have 8.8 hex heads, and 12.9 socket head cap screws. Then the hardware store guy tried to tell me Class 8.8 = Grade 8.

I bought two hex Class 8.8 and one socket head cap Class 12.9, all M10 x 1.5.

[Engineering Speak]

All 10.9 bolts have a tensile strength of 145 ksi (kilo-psi), all 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 116 ksi. For reference Grade 5 = 120 ksi and Grade 8 = 150 ksi. Class 12.9 has a tensile strength of 174 ksi. Source: www.mcmaster.com

Many say the factory torque spec is 55 ft-lbs. BUT - a Class 8.8 M10 bolt can only take 40-45 ft-lbs of torque before the threads distort and the bolt is useless. A Class 10.9 M10 bolt can take ~55-60 ft-lbs. A Class 12.9 M10 bolt can take ~73 ft-lbs.
Source: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html and http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm and and http://books.google.com/books?id=_Pk...esign+handbook

[/Engineering Speak]

What does this mean? Since the stock torque spec is at the upper limit of a 10.9 and grade 8 bolt, you can very easily overtorque the stock bolt, causing the threads to deform and the next time you go to use the bolt it is useless and will not torque properly. It will just snap. Thats what happened to me. The solution - buy a 12.9 M10x1.5 75mm bolt and torque to 55-65 ft-lbs.

Also, every M10 x 1.5 bolt you buy from McMaster or a hardware store will have a 10mm OD shaft instead of the stock 9mm, which makes it fit more snug in the track bar (a good thing!). You'll have to drill out the stock washer, I worked it with a 3/8" drill bit for a while. I couldn't find a thick, larger OD 10mm ID washer to match the stock one.

Finished - Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Class 10.9 thin washer + drill out stock washer:


I reused the stock nut after chasing the threads with an M10 tap - I chewed them up trying to get the busted bolt out. Torqued to 55-60 ft-lbs and used a bit of blue lock-tite. make sure to tighten the Class 12.9 M10 bolt with an 8mm Allen head - careful not to strip the allen head!
Any chance you have a link for this bolt or preferably a hex bolt of the same dimensions.
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post #585 of 711 Old 04-06-2014, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Any chance you have a link for this bolt or preferably a hex bolt of the same dimensions.
Go to your local ACE Hardware. The website is: www.acehardware.com

If that doesn't work try McMaster-Carr or Fastenal.


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