Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 21 - JeepForum.com

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post #301 of 711 Old 02-27-2011, 07:55 PM
hustler905
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Any chance of a photo of the Soli diff cover? I am getting ready to grind mine since fitment was such a miserable failure without modification.

I have an idea what material to remove, but seeing a completed one may help.

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post #302 of 711 Old 02-27-2011, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler905 View Post
Any chance of a photo of the Soli diff cover? I am getting ready to grind mine since fitment was such a miserable failure without modification.

I have an idea what material to remove, but seeing a completed one may help.
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post #303 of 711 Old 02-27-2011, 08:56 PM
hustler905
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Thank you sir, that's exactly what I was looking for.

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post #304 of 711 Old 02-28-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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So, when I installed my new winch, I knew the front would drop. If you remember from back on page 1, I've already got 0.75" spacers in front to level things out. Well...I wanted to ditch those, and maintain the ride height I saw with no engine skid, the stock bumper & no winch. So I started running some numbers regarding the weight of all this steel.




Ok, calculations are good and well right, but how well did this work?

All measurements taken from the same location, off the bottom coil:

No winch, no engine skid, stock bumper (basically "no weight"):


Winch, engine skid and stock bumper:


Now, winch, engine skid, stock bumper and 934 springs, with no spacers:


The first pic - about 15" to the black hash line on the spring tower. The 2nd pic, about 14.5". The 3rd pic, back to 15", and the coil height is actually closer to 14"...pretty darn close to my 13.7" assumption. It will probably be right at ~13.75" should I put the "knoblockbumpers" front bumper back on. I'm going to try to go without my front reciever...we'll see how long that lasts .

I looked at BDS springs and OME springs, but OME 934's had the correct length and spring rate, which is why I chose them .

So there's a detailed write-up on how to level out your Jeep using only springs....you just need to know the spring rate & unloaded spring length you have now, and the amount of weight to be added.
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post #305 of 711 Old 04-09-2011, 06:03 PM
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subbin

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #306 of 711 Old 04-09-2011, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Welp, mine clears the tie-rod & modified diff cover and the "custom" track bar with 1-3/8" bumpstop
Could you tell me a little more about this "custom" track bar. I just recently swaped out my 5.5" re springs (they were suppose to be 3.5" like my rear ones but thats a whole different story) for some OME springs and my re 1600 track bar is real close to hitting. I am now looking to make a switch to a different TB.

Stu website supporter. http://www.stu-offroad.com/
One of the best jeep websites out there for reference. If you can help please do.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/environment.htm
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
You didn't correct the problem, you only worked around the real problem.
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post #307 of 711 Old 04-09-2011, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06flex View Post
Could you tell me a little more about this "custom" track bar. I just recently swaped out my 5.5" re springs (they were suppose to be 3.5" like my rear ones but thats a whole different story) for some OME springs and my re 1600 track bar is real close to hitting. I am now looking to make a switch to a different TB.
well its a long story...PM me if you want more details....but mudb8's has had his hands on it. its a prototype from a major track bar manufacturer....went through two iterations, and this is the 2nd design. Clears most diff cover, but hits the tie-rod without 2" of bumpstop extension. only reason mine clears with 1-3/8" is because of the ZJ tie-rod that bends down low, and the major mods done to the SOLI diff cover.

what I suggest now for 2.5" lifts is the stock track bar. reinforce the axle side mount, drill a new hole and grind the top side of the mount a bit, or bend the track bar in a press, so that it clears at full bump & full droop. But if you've drilled out your mount, you can't go back (well at least not without a TIG welder).

If you've drilled out the stock mount, then take a look at the high clearance double shear mounts mudb8 is making. (in his track bar thread). requires lots of fabrication skills, but I think its worth it...i'd like to eventually go that route.
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post #308 of 711 Old 05-17-2011, 01:54 AM
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post for future reference
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post #309 of 711 Old 06-02-2011, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Installed my Hesco high flow thermostat housing

Stock:


Hesco:


Both:


Orifice is much (!!) bigger. That should help keep my temps where they should be. Since 30k miles or less, if I ran the A/C in temps over 95, in stop and go congested city traffic, the temps would slowly climb to overheating over several miles. If I turned off the A/C & rolled down the windows, the temps quickly returned to normal, so I could never run the A/C in really hot temps while in congested traffic. Dealership could never figure it out. Guess I'll see if this was the root of the problem this summer when it hits 100+.
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post #310 of 711 Old 06-02-2011, 10:07 PM
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I don't know all the year differnces, but the 03 has the larger housing as the "Hesco" you posted above and uses a deeper T-stat. a 205* stat is also available for the 03 and not the later years, they will fit but have to clocked just right to allow the factory housing to bolt on flush and not crush the stat or leak. I used the 205* on CB3's plus drilled and taped another temp sensor hole for his variable speed electric fans, which I did not approve of BTW although we have not been able to get it to overheat even with the Kilbly compressor, a/c and everything else you can think of running..

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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post #311 of 711 Old 06-02-2011, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
I don't know all the year differnces, but the 03 has the larger housing as the "Hesco" you posted above and uses a deeper T-stat. a 205* stat is also available for the 03 and not the later years, they will fit but have to clocked just right to allow the factory housing to bolt on flush and not crush the stat or leak. I used the 205* on CB3's plus drilled and taped another temp sensor hole for his variable speed electric fans, which I did not approve of BTW although we have not been able to get it to overheat even with the Kilbly compressor, a/c and everything else you can think of running..
it's weird for sure. i remember a thread a while back where people (including blaine) where sharing experiences of the thermostat housing. Apparently you can get housings with the large opening from RockAuto or even a junkyard. Some guys apparently port the stocker out with a Dremel. I shaved off some the leftover sharp edges from this Hesco version. I didn't want to fuss with porting, machining or trying to locate a low cost better version, so I just went with the Hesco...for me, it ain't worth the troubleshooting to save 20 bucks.

damn it, I remember reading about the thermostat's keyway in the FSM. I saw it on the thermostat, but I totally forgot to consciously line it up. I twisted the thermostat till it sat flush, so hopefully I did it right...no leaks for the 20 minutes I ran the engine. Guess I'll keep an eye on it. I'm gonna be mad if I need to buy a new gasket and pull it off...might as well get a new thermostat the second time around .
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post #312 of 711 Old 06-11-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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post #313 of 711 Old 06-11-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Installed my Hesco high flow thermostat housing


Orifice is much (!!) bigger. That should help keep my temps where they should be. Since 30k miles or less, if I ran the A/C in temps over 95, in stop and go congested city traffic, the temps would slowly climb to overheating over several miles. If I turned off the A/C & rolled down the windows, the temps quickly returned to normal, so I could never run the A/C in really hot temps while in congested traffic. Dealership could never figure it out. Guess I'll see if this was the root of the problem this summer when it hits 100+.
Same thing happens with my Jeep in the summer, I can rarely ever run the AC because the Jeep will get too hot, so when I run the AC it's for no longer than 10 minutes. I guess it's tstat thing.
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post #314 of 711 Old 06-11-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post


The water crossing was much deeper than last summer due to run off
Where was this?

Cleverly disguised as responsible adult.
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post #315 of 711 Old 06-12-2011, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by 2006_Sport View Post
Same thing happens with my Jeep in the summer, I can rarely ever run the AC because the Jeep will get too hot, so when I run the AC it's for no longer than 10 minutes. I guess it's tstat thing.
I'm wondering if its related to the mini-cats. Maybe they heat the intake manifold & engine compartment up enough to lead to issues. I did notice climbing I-70 yesterday it was getting pretty warm as my 42RLE keeps me in 3rd gear @ 3500rpms for dozens of miles. I was seeing 220-229, might go with a new t-stat and see what that does...but I won't know till I hit the mountains again in 90 temps. My temps did go down a bit after removing the winch cover...so maybe the winch is blocking the radiator too much

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi Unlimited View Post
Where was this?
McClellen Mtn/Argentine Pass - turned around shortly after this when we came across a 6" lifted TJ on 35s that said a big drift was ahead, we didn't get above treeline.

The other picture was Yankee Hill, which is clear from the Alice side, and clear from the Central City side, but the two sides of the trail aren't connected yet. There is a big drift in the usual spot....some ATV's were busting through, but its too deep for any trucks on less than 40s & willing to winch for a while.
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