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post #286 of 711 Old 11-15-2010, 08:52 PM
Jay12
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is your trackbar boxed in now? so you'll have to remove the frame side if you ever want to disconnect the axle end?

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post #287 of 711 Old 11-15-2010, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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is your trackbar boxed in now? so you'll have to remove the frame side if you ever want to disconnect the axle end?
i removed the track bar to weld that on, then reinstalled it, just like normal. you have to remove the frame end to get the bar out anyway...even stock.


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post #288 of 711 Old 12-09-2010, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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So recap on suspension design -

1. I'm running 33s, with 2.5" of lift and a 1" BL. That means I need 1" of bumpstop to keep the tires from rubbing the fenders.
2. My front shocks are 13.3" collapsed length - meaning they'll fit into the stock spring tower with no bumpstop.
3. My front track bar hits the ZJ tie-rod at around 1.25" of bumpstop extension, but doesn't hit the diff cover with the described modifications in this thread.

Whats that mean? Means I need at least 1" of bumpstop to clear the tires, and avoid damaging the tie-rod, and avoid hitting the diff cover. I had been running 0.9" homemade bumpstop upper extensions in front, but if you know your geometry, you'll see upper bumpstop extensions can bend the spring tower and cause major issues. Solution?

Move to lower bumpstop pucks. These are 1" Performance Accessories "Big Block" body mount spacers...less than $1 each...I ordered 6, just in case I decide to add more later


But if you're paying attention - I just lost 1" of travel due to bumpstops. 1" of uptravel obviously, but can I get that 1" back? Yes, sorta. I can get it back in downtravel. How? Well, I could install new shocks that are 1" longer travel, and have a 1" more compressed length (so 14.3" vs 13.3"). Or I could lengthen the shocks I already have to 14.3"....

$13 in spacers and grade 5 bolts from the hardware store, adding 1" length to my shocks.

So now I'm using the entire travel of the shock again, and I gain 1" of downtravel

The bumpstop extension was bolted down to the 3/8" base plate I welded to the HP D30 when I was building it.

^thats a 3" OD x 3/8" thick piece of steel, drilled and tapped for a 7/16" bolt.

So the total bumpstop is 1-3/8" in front, just enough to get the track bar rubbing the offset ZJ tie-rod, such that it only rubs paint...but doesn't cause major deformation of the tie-rod. Accompanied by a 1" shock extension to regain the lost uptravel in downtravel.

The front is totally dialed in


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post #289 of 711 Old 12-09-2010, 08:23 PM
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The views in your pics are amazing! I seriously need to make a trip west sometime.


Oh, the jeep looks good too. Nice find on the hood louvers, I'm wanting to do something similar soon. Keep up the great work


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post #290 of 711 Old 01-04-2011, 11:25 AM
B2CARPEN
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I haven't stopped over here lately but it's awesome to see how far along your jeep has come. All of those small, but important little custom mods (that most ignore) adding up and making everything work properly. And, I am a huge advocate of the lower mounted bump stops and will definitely be going that route when I need more limitation with 35s.

I'm curious to see how those hood louvs will turn out.. I've never heard of using those, but looks like it will turn out nicely.


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post #291 of 711 Old 01-04-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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I'm curious to see how those hood louvs will turn out.. I've never heard of using those, but looks like it will turn out nicely.
Thanks for the props. I hope they turn out well...won't get to them anytime soon...but here's the write up I'll be following:

http://www.oman4x4.com/hoodventinstall.htm

With the front dialed in...the next is tune the rear up a bit, with Nth Degree shock shifters and N67L shocks.


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post #292 of 711 Old 01-04-2011, 12:06 PM
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That's a nice writeup, IMO I think those louvs will look nice as long as you paint them with matching smooth paint. I don't like that he painted them black. Kinda makes them look plasticy and cheap (even though they are nylon).

Same went for for my MCE fenders. The textured black just made them look cheap but since I painted mine to match, most people don't even realize they are plastic until they take a closer look.


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post #293 of 711 Old 02-09-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Updates of recent things done in the past month or so...

Finally got my tranny cooler installed...what a PITA. I've had this thing laying in my garage for around 2-3 years.


Of course I bought the wrong transmission line over a year ago when I pieced together the tranny cooler parts...bought 5/16" line since they didn't have 3/8". The stock line is 3/8". All my splice connectors were 3/8". I didn't find this out till my Jeep was apart and it was too late to drive to the local auto parts store. But I reamed the line out a bit and made it all work. I did end up going back a week later to put 3/8" line in. oh well...I have seen a nice drop in trans temp. It now takes a loooong time to warm up...but its also -5F lately...so I'll have to wait till summer to get a good hot weather representation.

Here's a sneak peak for whats next:

Found an amazing price on an EPi9000S (from a vendor on another forum). Free shipping and by far the cheapest price I've found anywhere in past 2-3 years. Couldn't pass it up.


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post #294 of 711 Old 02-09-2011, 07:01 PM
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Nice pickup on that winch!

-Justin
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post #295 of 711 Old 02-10-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Finally got my tranny cooler installed...what a PITA. I've had this thing laying in my garage for around 2-3 years.

It now takes a loooong time to warm up...but its also -5F lately...so I'll have to wait till summer to get a good hot weather representation.
Sounds just like me with my heatercore replacement

I've had my new heater core laying around for a couple years which I plan to get to this summer. I've decided that it's worth freezing my *** off during the winters so I don't have to deal with the PITA install

And nice job scoring that superwinch! I've been wanting their new generation LP8500 for quite some time now.


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post #296 of 711 Old 02-10-2011, 04:34 PM
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Updates of recent things done in the past month or so...

Finally got my tranny cooler installed...what a PITA. I've had this thing laying in my garage for around 2-3 years.
do you have A/C?
if so, did you just pull the condenser back on one side?

I can't bring myself to pay for a discharge/recharge. The cooler I'm after won't fit through a grill slot or headlight hole.
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post #297 of 711 Old 02-10-2011, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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do you have A/C?
if so, did you just pull the condenser back on one side?

I can't bring myself to pay for a discharge/recharge. The cooler I'm after won't fit through a grill slot or headlight hole.
my cooler didn't fit through the grill slots either. i had to loosen the A/C condensor on the bottom. HUGE PITA!!!!! the stupid factory bolts are NOT easy to work with...NO NUT on the other side. all the A/C condensor mounting bolts are like sheet metal screws stuck into some kind of rubber plug. you can feel inside the grill, on the upper mounts, and tell what i'm talking about.

I managed to force the tranny cooler in between the tub and the condensor from the below, on the passenger side...had to loosen the lower mounts, pull the condensor toward the radiator and use my dead blow hammer to carefully tap the cooler into the grill space. I then cut my hands up trying to figure out ways to mount it...i ended up using one ZJ tranny cooler mount clip, one self-tapping screw and one zip tie. that kinda demonstrates my patience with it over time

Please note, I put about 6-7 feet of tranny cooler line on both ends BEFORE inserting it...basically one long piece attached to both ends. then I cut the line in the middle and snaked each end where it needed to go, and trimmed off the excess.

on the lower mounting points...i loosened them and pulled the screw out...ok now what, there is no access to the backside of the hole, so i had no idea if that stupid rubber piece was going to stay put for reinserting the screw. luckily after some spirited cussing and very careful screw insertion, the screws grabbed the rubber again. also note they dont really get tight...they just kinda spin...so i just turned them till the condensor was solid again.

if you have some really thick cooler, you could loosen the mounting points of the condensor and wiggle it where you need too, there isn't much room, but you can probably gain and inch or two of clearance between the tub and the condensor. no need to charge/discharge.


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post #298 of 711 Old 02-11-2011, 11:20 AM
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When all else fails, ziptie it!


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post #299 of 711 Old 02-11-2011, 03:36 PM
mike_dippert
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my cooler didn't fit through the grill slots either. i had to loosen the A/C condensor on the bottom. HUGE PITA!!!!! the stupid factory bolts are NOT easy to work with...NO NUT on the other side. all the A/C condensor mounting bolts are like sheet metal screws stuck into some kind of rubber plug. you can feel inside the grill, on the upper mounts, and tell what i'm talking about.

I managed to force the tranny cooler in between the tub and the condensor from the below, on the passenger side...had to loosen the lower mounts, pull the condensor toward the radiator and use my dead blow hammer to carefully tap the cooler into the grill space. I then cut my hands up trying to figure out ways to mount it...i ended up using one ZJ tranny cooler mount clip, one self-tapping screw and one zip tie. that kinda demonstrates my patience with it over time

Please note, I put about 6-7 feet of tranny cooler line on both ends BEFORE inserting it...basically one long piece attached to both ends. then I cut the line in the middle and snaked each end where it needed to go, and trimmed off the excess.

on the lower mounting points...i loosened them and pulled the screw out...ok now what, there is no access to the backside of the hole, so i had no idea if that stupid rubber piece was going to stay put for reinserting the screw. luckily after some spirited cussing and very careful screw insertion, the screws grabbed the rubber again. also note they dont really get tight...they just kinda spin...so i just turned them till the condensor was solid again.

if you have some really thick cooler, you could loosen the mounting points of the condensor and wiggle it where you need too, there isn't much room, but you can probably gain and inch or two of clearance between the tub and the condensor. no need to charge/discharge.
thanks, nice to know it's possible. I figured I would remove all the condenser bolts and just pull it back but I wasn't sure if the hard lines left enough play.
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post #300 of 711 Old 02-27-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Did some work on the front end today. Swapped out the springs for the increased weight of the winch. Went to OME 934's in front...more write up on that later.

Drivers side bumpstop stuffed, shocks disconnected:




Not even close to the "SOLI" lettering, right? Now lets look at full bump:







Welp, mine clears the tie-rod & modified diff cover and the "custom" track bar with 1-3/8" bumpstop

Full stuff with 33's:



Under full flex they do fit in the fenderwell, but its damn close



More on spring rate coming soon


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