Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 15 - JeepForum.com

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post #211 of 711 Old 01-23-2010, 12:45 PM
phittie1100
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Good thread - I took my trans swimming at 69k miles, and as you might imagine it was not happy. The trans shop that rebuilt it for me has turned out to be the biggest group of idiots I have ever had to work with, plus they will not install a bung in the pan, claiming it will eventually leak and the mod would void their rebuild warranty. The NAPA T-adapter is exactly what I was looking for - the one concession I got out of the trans shop was them installing a HD trans cooler, but I am having regular trouble with the trans burping up fluid when it gets hot. I need the temp guage so I can see what it is doing, the T-adapter should not give them any cause for grief. My popup is big and heavy, and still running stock 3.73 gears with my 33s does not help the trans run any cooler, especially on hilly, back roads.


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post #212 of 711 Old 01-24-2010, 11:35 AM
toddallen
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Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.

2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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post #213 of 711 Old 01-24-2010, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by toddallen View Post
Unlimited04, I saw on another thread you talking about gap guards for a body lift. Did you make your own?? If so do you have any pics of it??? I looked through your thread but didn't see anything about it, but I might have over looked it.
Post #130 - Kilby Body Clamz



That what you mean?
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post #214 of 711 Old 01-24-2010, 01:36 PM
toddallen
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No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.

2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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post #215 of 711 Old 01-24-2010, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by toddallen View Post
No, I was talking about the gap guard in the rear fender well. Between the frame and the body to hide the fact that you have a body lift.
i painted the body with undercoating and flat black paint.
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post #216 of 711 Old 01-24-2010, 01:45 PM
toddallen
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I C thanks

2004 LJ Wrangler, 5" Suspension Lift, 1.25" JKS BL, 1" JKS MML, 35"x12.50"x15"
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post #217 of 711 Old 01-25-2010, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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I C thanks


it doesn't look bad...if people make fun of it, i'll pull out a tape measure and show them belly clearance of 4" lift & 33s, with 2.5" of lift & 31s... the enormous bike rack hitch looks worse, lol.
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post #218 of 711 Old 01-25-2010, 01:34 PM
rubidriver
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I forsee 35s in the near future sir.

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #219 of 711 Old 01-25-2010, 02:29 PM
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this thread is full of win
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post #220 of 711 Old 01-25-2010, 02:38 PM
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10 characters

Last edited by CCJ; 01-25-2010 at 06:56 PM. Reason: double post
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post #221 of 711 Old 01-25-2010, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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I forsee 35s in the near future sir.
you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!

HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 01-25-2010 at 05:16 PM.
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post #222 of 711 Old 02-01-2010, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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I think my B&M gauge crapped out. It's been behaving weird, spiking temps from 140 to 240 in an instant, so I pulled out the multimeter. The sensor gives a nice consistent resistance (about 530 Ohms for ~120 degrees). I can watch the resistance change with temp, so I don't think its a problem. The gauge output to the sensor keeps fluctuating widely....it gives 5.xx volts one sec, then 12.xx volts, then 10.xx volts the next. So the gauge shows 140*F one sec, 240*F the next. Needle bounces all over the place.

Gonna take it apart tomorrow, call Summit or B&M and see what I can figure out.
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post #223 of 711 Old 02-01-2010, 10:15 PM
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posting to find this later for post #69, good info.
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post #224 of 711 Old 02-01-2010, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
you buying em? cuz my 31s are about 5k away from the wear indicators!!

HP D30 is coming well...slowly but surely....waiting till I get everything together before I post progress on it. But heres a hint - I pulled the old Clevite bushings out...it was easy and only took about 15 minutes per side. No fire either.
I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.

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post #225 of 711 Old 02-01-2010, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankyle62 View Post
posting to find this later for post #69, good info.
or you can just click the link in my sig

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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.
$12 for 2 Clevite bushings or $160 for the Currie conversion kit....yea so considering i'm a student again...the $12 Clevites won. i'm trying to build this thing for as cheap as possible including regear labor, gears, TrueTrac, master install kit, new ball joints, new unit bearings & truss.
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