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Unread 12-15-2010, 11:28 PM   #166
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I had to replace the 4.88s that I put in with 4.56s because 1st was never used and I was always hoping for a 7th gear. The power band is perfect with the 4.56s. It always seems to be in the right gear.

I was just watching the GPS last weekend and at 3000 rpm I was doing 73 mph. If you plan on driving on the freeway over 70mph for and amount of time 4.56 is the only way to go. You won't be disappointed with 4.56s.

Thanks,

Gerald

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Unread 12-15-2010, 11:55 PM   #167
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Thanks! That is really helpful. From the sound of it, the 4.56 and 35s is overall geared lower then my 3.73 and 33s, enough to keep a useable 1st and an effective 6th. 4.88 would put it too low, as you said leaving 1st useless (again) and wanting a bit lower highway RPM.

Sounds like the 4.56/35s combo was similar to how my Jeep felt with 3.73/31s, which of the 3 tire sizes I've had so far, was my favorite combo for full effective use of all gears.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 01:55 AM   #168
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Love this build thread.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 05:52 AM   #169
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Nice thread title change Gerald! You never fail to make me jealous with this rig...
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Be very careful with the wife mod. Uninstallation can be extremely expensive. Wife mods have been known to take the Jeep and all other mods during the uninstall process. Also, make sure you service your wife mod properly as often as humanly possible. Wife mods not properly serviced may malfunction or uninstall themselves at any time.
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Unread 12-16-2010, 06:03 AM   #170
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This color scheme is hot, love it. Only change I'd make is the body of the Jeep silver-consequently, mine IS. Getting tired of waiting on outside issues-I envision something pretty sweet here before too long. Like the other one a LOT with the Metalcloaks, but love this color. Knew I'd seen some gunmetal style coloring somewhere on a Savvy rig, didn't realize it was this one. Thanks for posting.

Nightwolf-

I run a 255/85 which is a true 33" tire on my '05 LJ Rubi with 6 speed. Where I live, drive and wheel the most, this setup is perfect for me. If I stepped up to 35's, I'm sure I'd likely want 5.13's or 5.38's for my setup as I doubt 4.88's would be enough. I have a lot of mountain passes though, tons of hills and tow a trailer a lot. I'm all over the state and everywhere in between. I use 1st as a starter on hills, but otherwise start in 2nd on the street from stops. I have 6th gear back again, which I'd lost with the tires on factory gears. It was crippled in that form. With current setup, I run around 2700 roughly at 60-65rpms and about 3000 at 70. This is right in the range I want it and need it to be for optimum performance. The Jeep is full of pep, has power across the entire range in all gears and is great off-road. It works excellent for me and I wouldn't have it any other way. With the description of what you have and what you want, I'd almost think 4.88s with 35's for you would be good. For you, I don't think you'd care for the gear on 33's like I have. For me it wouldn't be deep enough.

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 12-16-2010, 08:29 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by 55willystruck View Post
This color scheme is hot, love it. Only change I'd make is the body of the Jeep silver-consequently, mine IS. Getting tired of waiting on outside issues-I envision something pretty sweet here before too long. Like the other one a LOT with the Metalcloaks, but love this color. Knew I'd seen some gunmetal style coloring somewhere on a Savvy rig, didn't realize it was this one. Thanks for posting.

Nightwolf-

I run a 255/85 which is a true 33" tire on my '05 LJ Rubi with 6 speed. Where I live, drive and wheel the most, this setup is perfect for me. If I stepped up to 35's, I'm sure I'd likely want 5.13's or 5.38's for my setup as I doubt 4.88's would be enough. I have a lot of mountain passes though, tons of hills and tow a trailer a lot. I'm all over the state and everywhere in between. I use 1st as a starter on hills, but otherwise start in 2nd on the street from stops. I have 6th gear back again, which I'd lost with the tires on factory gears. It was crippled in that form. With current setup, I run around 2700 roughly at 60-65rpms and about 3000 at 70. This is right in the range I want it and need it to be for optimum performance. The Jeep is full of pep, has power across the entire range in all gears and is great off-road. It works excellent for me and I wouldn't have it any other way. With the description of what you have and what you want, I'd almost think 4.88s with 35's for you would be good. For you, I don't think you'd care for the gear on 33's like I have. For me it wouldn't be deep enough.

Best of Luck,

Mike
Mike,

You're not going to like 4.88 or 5.13 with your 6 speed. You're going to wish you had a 7 speed. 4.88 or 5.13 for 35s is fine with a 4 speed auto but they are two low (numerically high) for 35s on a 6 speed. Final gear drive ratios as follows. 3 speed auto is 1, 5 speed manual is .75, 4 speed auto is .69, and the 6 speed is .75 . Then you have 1st gear in the 6 speed is 4.46 while the rest just make 4 to 1.

Have you done the swap? I have and 4.88 don't cut it for a DD and 35s. I had to swap out the 4.88s to 4.56s because the Jeep did not work well. Now this is all predicated on a 4000 lb Jeep and 35 Goodyear 35s or BFG ATs. Also, if you like to be around 3000 rpm forget about going over 70 mph because I'm doing 72-73 MPH at 3000 rpm.

Take care,

Gerald
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Unread 12-16-2010, 09:09 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Savvy View Post
Mike,

You're not going to like 4.88 or 5.13 with your 6 speed. You're going to wish you had a 7 speed. 4.88 or 5.13 for 35s is fine with a 4 speed auto but they are two low (numerically high) for 35s on a 6 speed. Final gear drive ratios as follows. 3 speed auto is 1, 5 speed manual is .75, 4 speed auto is .69, and the 6 speed is .75 . Then you have 1st gear in the 6 speed is 4.46 while the rest just make 4 to 1.

Have you done the swap? I have and 4.88 don't cut it for a DD and 35s. I had to swap out the 4.88s to 4.56s because the Jeep did not work well. Now this is all predicated on a 4000 lb Jeep and 35 Goodyear 35s or BFG ATs. Also, if you like to be around 3000 rpm forget about going over 70 mph because I'm doing 72-73 MPH at 3000 rpm.

Take care,

Gerald
Gerald-

Actually, YES, I made the swap to 4.88's with my 33" tires about 3 years ago, maybe longer-on my 6 speed. I LOVE the setup and wouldn't have it any other way, which is why I know for me, I'd definitely want 5.13's or even 5.38's for 35's in MY rig. With factory gearing and the 33's on my setup, it was awful at best and down right crippled to be honest. I laborered long and hard over the decision between 4.56 and 4.88's and just couldn't justify such a big job for such little return with the 4.56 and knowing I MAY go bigger later on tires, didn't want to have to do it again. I went 4.88's and couldn't have been happier with the decision. It is PERFECT for what I do. Yes, it's a DD and I do run both city and highway all time time. I have over 75K on the rig now and I'd guess over 55K of that is with the 4.88's. 70mph is our max speed here on the highway and that's on the freeways in the bigger areas. My typical speed is in the 60-65 range, BUT I do run 70 easily down the highway at around 3000. If I need to pass, I have power to do that, will hit 80 or better then bring it back down to reasonable speeds. Unless I'm shifting, I don't run it much over 3500 on the highway, even at the 70+mph speeds. I find my rig works best with optimum performance, power, economy around the 2800-3000 range, so I run it there as much as I can. For me, it works Great on 4.88's with 33's. My tires are 255/85's which are a "true" 33" tire, measured out at 33.5" tall and about 10" wide when new so they're a bit taller than the standard 33" which is usually a hair under 33".

Worth mentioning is my rig is/was horribly heavy for a long while. I'd scale out at just a hair under 5,000 pounds-empty (4960 actually), before adding gear. Add a trailer to that as well. You can now kind of see why I want to move in the direction I'm talking about with the armor-ligthening things up. Removal of the ARB bullbar swapping to the Savvy saved me about 80 lbs. up front. Swapping my Kilby gas skid for Savvy shaved about 30 in the back. I couldn't get Blaine to build me a bumper that I could tow with out of aluminum at the time so I built my own, ditching the Jeeperman setup and shaved another 120 lbs. there. If I pull my Medic TT/Engine skid, Rokmen LJ Strykers and sliders and sell those, then swap to Savvy stuff here, I forsee easily another 200+ pounds coming off. With what I'll be doing soon, the lighter Jeep will be a welcome change. Will it offset the gearing enough to make me wish I went 4.56? I highly doubt it. Besides, I do see 35's here before too long IF everything else pans out the way I am planning.

I think location has a LOT to do with gearing decisions. I do run a lot of mountain passes and big hills frequently. My engine is otherwise bone stock with no mods, other than routene maintenance and upkeep. I did install a cowl intake to make room for on-board welder, but that's it. The factory muffler has been gone for a while too so I guess that's worth noting. The gearing has been the biggest/only thing that gave "life" back to my rig.

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 12-16-2010, 09:27 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55willystruck View Post
Gerald-

Actually, YES, I made the swap to 4.88's with my 33" tires about 3 years ago, maybe longer-on my 6 speed. I LOVE the setup and wouldn't have it any other way, which is why I know for me, I'd definitely want 5.13's or even 5.38's for 35's in MY rig. With factory gearing and the 33's on my setup, it was awful at best and down right crippled to be honest. I laborered long and hard over the decision between 4.56 and 4.88's and just couldn't justify such a big job for such little return with the 4.56 and knowing I MAY go bigger later on tires, didn't want to have to do it again. I went 4.88's and couldn't have been happier with the decision. It is PERFECT for what I do. Yes, it's a DD and I do run both city and highway all time time. I have over 75K on the rig now and I'd guess over 55K of that is with the 4.88's. 70mph is our max speed here on the highway and that's on the freeways in the bigger areas. My typical speed is in the 60-65 range, BUT I do run 70 easily down the highway at around 3000. If I need to pass, I have power to do that, will hit 80 or better then bring it back down to reasonable speeds. Unless I'm shifting, I don't run it much over 3500 on the highway, even at the 70+mph speeds. I find my rig works best with optimum performance, power, economy around the 2800-3000 range, so I run it there as much as I can. For me, it works Great on 4.88's with 33's. My tires are 255/85's which are a "true" 33" tire, measured out at 33.5" tall and about 10" wide when new so they're a bit taller than the standard 33" which is usually a hair under 33".

Worth mentioning is my rig is/was horribly heavy for a long while. I'd scale out at just a hair under 5,000 pounds-empty (4960 actually), before adding gear. Add a trailer to that as well. You can now kind of see why I want to move in the direction I'm talking about with the armor-ligthening things up. Removal of the ARB bullbar swapping to the Savvy saved me about 80 lbs. up front. Swapping my Kilby gas skid for Savvy shaved about 30 in the back. I couldn't get Blaine to build me a bumper that I could tow with out of aluminum at the time so I built my own, ditching the Jeeperman setup and shaved another 120 lbs. there. If I pull my Medic TT/Engine skid, Rokmen LJ Strykers and sliders and sell those, then swap to Savvy stuff here, I forsee easily another 200+ pounds coming off. With what I'll be doing soon, the lighter Jeep will be a welcome change. Will it offset the gearing enough to make me wish I went 4.56? I highly doubt it. Besides, I do see 35's here before too long IF everything else pans out the way I am planning.

I think location has a LOT to do with gearing decisions. I do run a lot of mountain passes and big hills frequently. My engine is otherwise bone stock with no mods, other than routene maintenance and upkeep. I did install a cowl intake to make room for on-board welder, but that's it. The factory muffler has been gone for a while too so I guess that's worth noting. The gearing has been the biggest/only thing that gave "life" back to my rig.

Best of Luck,

Mike
I'm with you. Location and the weight of the Jeep have everything to do with gearing. I couldn't stand the 4.88s but love the 4.56s for DD. Like you I wouldn't have it any other way. The GY are 34.5" so they are close. You have to admit you really only have a 5 speed because 1st is pretty useless on the streets.

This Jeep has the full Banks kit installed (exhaust, intake and Chip.) Before it was nice to drive but now it really is fun! It seems to have a bit more power which really helps it along.

Take care,

Gerald
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Unread 12-16-2010, 11:45 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy View Post
I'm with you. Location and the weight of the Jeep have everything to do with gearing. I couldn't stand the 4.88s but love the 4.56s for DD. Like you I wouldn't have it any other way. The GY are 34.5" so they are close. You have to admit you really only have a 5 speed because 1st is pretty useless on the streets.

This Jeep has the full Banks kit installed (exhaust, intake and Chip.) Before it was nice to drive but now it really is fun! It seems to have a bit more power which really helps it along.

Take care,

Gerald
You are right-I typically only use 1st in the city on the hills. If flat ground, always start in 2nd. With the 4.46 1st or whatever it is, I prefer to use it as a "low" gear and push that towards the wheeling side of things, as 2nd works so well on flat ground anyway on the streets. When it was brand new off the lot, I didn't use 1st either so going from bone stock with 4.11's and 31's, to 33's with stock gears and losing 6th entirely, being forced to use 1st exclusively, then to how it is now with 4.88's-I like it much better than stock setup all the way around as I have power in all gears across the entire range, and I have 6th back for highway use-and can actually pass in it on the highway! The off-road performance is outstanding as I have so much more "finesse" and control if you will idling. The ability to drop to 1st and idle something in total control is SO much more valuable to me as opposed to putting it in first and having to force the throttle trying to make it climb. Probably not very descriptive or clear, but hopefully you get the idea. Everything is a compromise of some sorts I guess. This has worked great for me though, I'm happy with it.

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 12-16-2010, 02:02 PM   #175
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Dang Gerald, those look nice and along the lines of what I am looking for. How long are the step sliders from end to end? BTW, I love the black chrome look, very sharp.

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These are the new step sliders.


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Unread 12-16-2010, 02:16 PM   #176
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Dang Gerald, those look nice and along the lines of what I am looking for. How long are the step sliders from end to end? BTW, I love the black chrome look, very sharp.
Hey Lawrence,

The steps go from flare to flare and are 57-1/8" at the row of bolts on the step. I heard a rumor that a tube step is also in the works!

Thanks,

Gerald
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Unread 12-16-2010, 02:31 PM   #177
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Hey Lawrence,

The steps go from flare to flare and are 57-1/8" at the row of bolts on the step.
Awesome, on the wish list along with the tailgate stuff.
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Unread 02-02-2011, 02:31 PM   #178
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Genright sent some aluminum G3 tube fender and flares over so I could get them installed before KOH. The fit and finish of them is excellent! Very easy install with a sawzall and hand tools. Maybe 4 hours total installation time.

I like these because I don't have to move everything. It still hurts when I cut up perfectly good OEM fender though!

These are the 4" flares and standard fronts utilizing teh OEM inner walls. I will be powder coating them when I get back from KOH.





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Unread 02-02-2011, 02:33 PM   #179
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Aluminum Genright fenders? Niiiice.
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Unread 02-02-2011, 02:39 PM   #180
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These really compliment our product line. We don't don't plan on building tube fenders so these work well for us. Just like the Metalcloak on the Test Mule. Both are good Companies that make quality products. You can't go wrong either way. It is such a personal decision that I'm glad I can show both of them to our customers and they can see them first hand on how they integrate with our line.
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