UCF Engine Skid Hitting Downpipe from Exhause Manifold - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-08-2010, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
Boston_Wheeler
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UCF Engine Skid Hitting Downpipe from Exhause Manifold

I just figured I would share my experiences from today. I got everything mounted up ready for my UCF engine skid install and I have some interference between the top of the skid and the downpipe from the exhaust manifold.

Here's a pic:



If you look close enough, you can see where I marked on the skid with a marker indicating the material I plan to cut away. It isn't a lot of interference, but it is enough where if I secured everything in that location and I take a hit to the skid, I would be concerned about potential damage to the exhaust manifold.

I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this and how they addressed it. I am planning on modifying the skid tomorrow but figured I would post to see what others have done.

Thanks.



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post #2 of 16 Old 08-08-2010, 07:02 PM
Dogman
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Are you running the stock belly skid?

John 3:17
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post #3 of 16 Old 08-08-2010, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
Boston_Wheeler
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Yes. Stock TC Skid and no MML.


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post #4 of 16 Old 08-09-2010, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Problem Solved!

So I made a cutout on the engine skid for clearance and it fits great now!




A Few Lessons Learned from My Install...

1) When mounting the brackets to the frame, the hardware should be installed by placing a washer over the bolt and dropping it down through the frame. Next, place the bracket up under the frame and install another washer, lock washer and nut in that order. This is more important on the passenger side mount as there wasn't enough room for me to get a wrench on it from the top. I used this method for 3 of 4 bolts. The 4th, I installed by inserting the bolt with washer from underneath and got a wrench on it from the top. This was on the driver side on the hole nearest the mounting location for the cross support. This allowed me the necessary clearance between the cross support and the mounting bracket.

2) When mounting the engine skid to the TC Skid, I used the two holes at the far end of the skid. This allowed the hole for the drain plug to be better centered as well as allowed for better clearance between the head of the bolt and the exhaust at the front of the skid.

3) You may need to lift the vehicle up some to allow room to fit the drill under the skid to drill the holes. A compact drill may also be really helpful. Also, a C-Clamp would be helpful to clamp the skid to the TC skid to ensure it doesn't slip while drilling. Mine shifted a little on me drilling the first hole so it is a little closer to the transmission pan than I would like, but I may just grind away a little more material if it becomes an issue.


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post #5 of 16 Old 08-09-2010, 07:54 PM
vohk
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I had the same problem with their No-BL TC skid and engine skid. I did essentially the same thing you did. Wasn't paying attention during the install and completely missed it at first. Then drove it down the road and wondered why I suddenly had horrible drive line vibrations.

...

Ooooooh. 2 minutes with a cutoff wheel, problem solved.

Last edited by vohk; 08-09-2010 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Me speek Inglish Gut.
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post #6 of 16 Old 08-09-2010, 08:17 PM
undercoverfab
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Sorry for the clearance problems, guys. I plan to add a curved feature in the driver side much like what is pictured. I have seen this one time myself, but we thought the downpipe was bent in toward the oil pan. Some TJs have several inches of clearance between the oil pan and the downpipe. Others don't.

Matt Walton

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post #7 of 16 Old 08-09-2010, 09:07 PM
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I happy you posted this and I'm happy UCF saw it. I plan to order their aluminum engine skid when I finally move into my new house next month. I'll have the same setup of stock Transfer Case Skid and no MML. Maybe there will be a no body lift TC skid about a year down the road.

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post #8 of 16 Old 08-09-2010, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston_Wheeler View Post
Yes. Stock TC Skid and no MML.
Do you have any pics of the UCF skid mated to the stock TC skid? Thinking of doing this myself.

My build:
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-10-2010, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'll take some toady and get them posted tonight.


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post #10 of 16 Old 08-10-2010, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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More Pictures...

Here is a picture of the rear of the skid where I bolted it up to the stock TC skid:


And here is one of the drivers side of the skid where it is very close to the transmission pan. As I mentioned before, if it becomes an issue I may grind away a little more material. It is all very sturdy though and I don't think its going anywhere.



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post #11 of 16 Old 08-11-2010, 04:14 AM
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Looks good. I have the UCF aluminum engine skid mated to my stock shovel as well. Solid product.

I wasn't sure at first about only using 2 of the 4 holes to mount the skid, but after all is said and done and a few rocks later it's holding up fine.

Sorry it's a little late to bring this up, but maybe it will be useful to someone else. If you have the engine skid bolted to the frame, but free on the other end, you can push/pull on the skid to slightly bend the angle of the brackets bolted to the frame to align everything. I was able to get mine to clear the downpipe and the drain hole, but still overlap the stock TC skid enough to comfortably bolt it up. Hope that helps!

Again, great product Matt.

-Justin
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-11-2010, 09:26 AM
Sgt.Fuzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston_Wheeler View Post
I'll take some toady and get them posted tonight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mJUSTINm View Post
Looks good. I have the UCF aluminum engine skid mated to my stock shovel as well. Solid product.

I wasn't sure at first about only using 2 of the 4 holes to mount the skid, but after all is said and done and a few rocks later it's holding up fine.

Sorry it's a little late to bring this up, but maybe it will be useful to someone else. If you have the engine skid bolted to the frame, but free on the other end, you can push/pull on the skid to slightly bend the angle of the brackets bolted to the frame to align everything. I was able to get mine to clear the downpipe and the drain hole, but still overlap the stock TC skid enough to comfortably bolt it up. Hope that helps!

Again, great product Matt.

Do either of you have a TC drop?

My build:
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-11-2010, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
Boston_Wheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFuzz View Post
Do either of you have a TC drop?
No. With the LJ I did not need a TC drop for the 2.5" OME lift.

I think it would work just as well with a drop though. This really is a great skid.
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-11-2010, 12:39 PM
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No TC drop here either.

-Justin
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-11-2010, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston_Wheeler View Post
No. With the LJ I did not need a TC drop for the 2.5" OME lift.

I think it would work just as well with a drop though. This really is a great skid.
I'm about to find out.

My build:
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