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Unread 04-06-2011, 04:47 PM   #91
undercoverfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavitation View Post
NICE!!!
Do you expect the 2.5 to be the same price as the big brother version?
Most likely, it's hard to tell before the part is fully developed.

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Unread 04-07-2011, 10:52 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHAKEnBLAKE
Wasn't there a thread where a guy had the ultra skid with no BL and a 32rh auto? I swear that wasn't just a dream. Anyone have a link?
Yes, it is I. I have my UHC skid installed with a 32rh trans. Stock mount and No body lift. It is not possible without a cable shifter on the t-case. And at first you will get some contact with the tub, and also the front ds will contact the tub when a heavy foot is applied in 4wd. Another thing to look into is I have a fuel cell and highline fenders so the BL was no longer needed for clearance issues .
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Unread 08-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #93
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I just got my UCF Deep-Cover Skid Plate System (transfer case skid + engine/transmission skid + locker pump relocation bracket)

The transfer case skid did not come with holes to mount the locker pump bracket nor did it come with holes to mount the engine/transmission skid.

Now I need to mock everything up mark holes & drill all before I paint.
Feels like I will be doing the install twice.

Since I ordered a "system" I would have thought all the provisions to mount it as a system would have been undertaken.
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Unread 08-08-2012, 09:10 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillRoar View Post
I just got my UCF Deep-Cover Skid Plate System (transfer case skid + engine/transmission skid + locker pump relocation bracket)

The transfer case skid did not come with holes to mount the locker pump bracket nor did it come with holes to mount the engine/transmission skid.

Now I need to mock everything up mark holes & drill all before I paint.
Feels like I will be doing the install twice.

Since I ordered a "system" I would have thought all the provisions to mount it as a system would have been undertaken.
Thanks for the feedback. There are notes on the website that the customer will be responsible for drilling the holes you're referring to.

This is from the Deep-Cover System page found here http://undercoverfab.com/transfer-ca...te-system.html:

"(Option G)
You can add an adapter bracket that will allow you to mount a stock Rubicon Locker Pump assembly to the top of the skid plate. This bracket is formed from 1/8" steel into the shape of a hat. The flat middle surface mounts to the top of the skid with hardware and mounting holes you must supply and drill. The factory pump assembly can then bolt to the remaining holes in the factory bracket to locate it up and out of the way."

This is from the engine skid page found here http://undercoverfab.com/aluminum-en...kid-plate.html:

"Note:
A) You may be responsible for drilling your transfer case skid plate for the rear mounting hardware."

The engine skids fit a multitude of transfer case skid designs that make per-drilling the mating holes in the transfer case skid impractical. It also weakens the front of the transfer case skid unnecessarily for the customer that doesn't run the engine skid. This is a byproduct of a "modular" system.

Thanks,
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Unread 08-08-2012, 09:19 AM   #95
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Just installed my ultra clearance skid on my LJ with a 1" Daystar BL, Browndog 1" MML, Novak shifter cable and the UCF LoPro mount as well for my LJ. It was a snap to install, love the clearance it gives. Can't wait to pick up the engine skid and 1" raised gas tank skid as well!
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Unread 12-14-2012, 07:01 AM   #96
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So I got my Ultra skids and lopro installed along with a Rubi 241 tcase and Novak shifter cable kit. It was all straight forward and overall I would say easy to do. It pays to have an angle grinder and access to a MIG though (for the exhaust bracket and to weld in a smaller Thrush muffler). But despite all I have read on here with the lopro, 241, 1.25" JKS BL, and tub clearance being a non-issue, my tcase certainly hits the tub on the driver side. Best way to describe it is where the tcase halves bolt together at the 11 o'clock position hits right into the tub. I used a piece of industrial rubber (1/8" thick and made of old tires so good wear properties) and epoxy and glued to the tub so at least it will not be metal on metal. Anyone else have clearance issues with the JKS BL, Rubi case, and UCF Ultra/lopro combo? I will say at first I thought maybe I did not take enough off the stock tranny mount but there is plenty of clearance between that and the skid. Thanks!
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Unread 12-16-2012, 02:26 PM   #97
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Two other small notes....one, despite the added cutout on the DS for the downpipe, I still had to remove about 1/4". Pretty easy to do with Al. Two, despite having a JKS 1" MML I still had to modify the fan shroud so the fan would not hit at the bottom. All done today and loving the look! I also used a tapered bit so I could run flush flat head allen bolts instead of the supplied button heads. Now time to beat on it and see how it holds up.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 02:41 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
Two other small notes....one, despite the added cutout on the DS for the downpipe, I still had to remove about 1/4". Pretty easy to do with Al. Two, despite having a JKS 1" MML I still had to modify the fan shroud so the fan would not hit at the bottom. All done today and loving the look! I also used a tapered bit so I could run flush flat head allen bolts instead of the supplied button heads. Now time to beat on it and see how it holds up.
Thats because the 241 jacks the rear of drivetrain up higher....combined with a slightly higher bl=fan shroud mods needed......why i prefer an upgraded 231 vs. 241.........for your app though u should have done brown dogs 1.5" mml mounts.....the 1" one is not optimal
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Unread 12-16-2012, 04:28 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Thats because the 241 jacks the rear of drivetrain up higher....combined with a slightly higher bl=fan shroud mods needed......why i prefer an upgraded 231 vs. 241.........for your app though u should have done brown dogs 1.5" mml mounts.....the 1" one is not optimal
thats why you enjoy a TC with less gear reduction?

the simple mod is worth having a 241 over a 231
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Unread 12-16-2012, 11:34 PM   #100
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Anyone have pics of what exactly they did to the fan shroud? I'm planning on the JKS MML due to my original mounts looking just fine after 8 years. And I already did my 2" BB and am running 31's, so an extra inch of BL won't be needed/probably won't look that good. I see the 4 bolts holding the shroud on. Should the coolant container be moved first for easier access to the driver side bolts? And what sort of drilling/mod is needed for the bolt holds and shroud itself? Thanks.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 06:22 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Thats because the 241 jacks the rear of drivetrain up higher....combined with a slightly higher bl=fan shroud mods needed......why i prefer an upgraded 231 vs. 241.........for your app though u should have done brown dogs 1.5" mml mounts.....the 1" one is not optimal
The 1.5" would've given enough fan clearance but would it have moved the entire drive train up, includinding the fact that the rear of the drivetrain (tcase side) is now moved up, so much that I would hit something else on the tub? Idk. It was an easy enough fix to make it all work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed View Post
thats why you enjoy a TC with less gear reduction?
the simple mod is worth having a 241 over a 231
He said "modded" so maybe he meant with a Teralow or something? I have read too many stories of guys breaking those. Plus for what you pay for a Teralow you can buy a 241 that is designed for that amount of torque on every single part in the tcase by Jeep. That and I got mine for $700 so that really made the decision easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WranglerTJ05 View Post
Anyone have pics of what exactly they did to the fan shroud? I'm planning on the JKS MML due to my original mounts looking just fine after 8 years. And I already did my 2" BB and am running 31's, so an extra inch of BL won't be needed/probably won't look that good. I see the 4 bolts holding the shroud on. Should the coolant container be moved first for easier access to the driver side bolts? And what sort of drilling/mod is needed for the bolt holds and shroud itself? Thanks.
If no BL then you are doing this for drivetrain angle? If not, I'd stick with stock. What I did yesterday was remove the washer bottle first. There are 2 tabs and one round "plug". I just pushed on the top of the bottle toward the fire wall and it flexed and popped right out. It seems impossible to remove the shroud without removing the rad and I didnt feel like doing that. So I took the Dremel with a little grinder bit and slotted all the holes vertically up about 1/2". Then pushed the shroud down until it almost contacted the lower coolant hose and tightened the bolts back up. No more fan hitting so I am happy.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:19 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed View Post
thats why you enjoy a TC with less gear reduction?

the simple mod is worth having a 241 over a 231
You can change out the 231 to 4:1 if your wheeling habits need it. Mine do not. 241 makes no sense unless your doing serious low speed rock crawling, or running tires 37" or larger.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:21 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
You can change out the 231 to 4:1 if your wheeling habits need it. Mine do not. 241 makes no sense unless your doing serious low speed rock crawling, or running tires 37" or larger.
i find this to be very far from the truth and love my 4:1. thats like saying that anything over 4.10 gears is a waste

upgrading the 231 would cost more than its worth and add more issues down the road
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:27 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
The 1.5" would've given enough fan clearance but would it have moved the entire drive train up, includinding the fact that the rear of the drivetrain (tcase side) is now moved up, so much that I would hit something else on the tub? Idk. It was an easy enough fix to make it all work.
No, the 1.5" MML would have partially leveled the drivetrain out. The ultra clearance skid itself is a bit more than 3.5" higher up vs the stock skid plate. THe LoPro mount is about 1" "lower" than the stock TC mount. So basically your jacking up the rear of the drivetrain about 2"-2.5". So with a 1" MML the rear is still higher up than the front by about 1-1.5".........a 1.5" MML would have solved the fanshroud issue without any needed modification AND keep your driveline/drivetrain angle closer to stock.

I am actually thinking about doing a 2" Brown Dog MML and a 2" bodylift to replace the 1"/1" setup right now. THat would keep the drivetrain angles basically stock front to rear, instead of having the engines nose pointed downward, and the rear driveshaft's tail pointing up.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:35 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed View Post
i find this to be very far from the truth and love my 4:1. thats like saying that anything over 4.10 gears is a waste

upgrading the 231 would cost more than its worth and add more issues down the road
Maybe for the automatics it works well, but I have a 6 speed manual and 4.88's on 33's with lightweight 35's on deck(that are lighter than most 33x12.5's).

The 231 built up is plenty stout for 35's and its lightweight and nice and compact too.

And if you do the math the 231 with a 6 speed in 1st in LO is in that sweet spot where the reduction is basically in the middle of 4:1 and 2.73 on 1st for the older 5 speed manuals or automatics. Low enough for serious rock crawling if needed, but not so low where it becomes nearly worthless for regular mudding and trail riding. Works out nicely.

Take your ride: 4.10's and a 42rle transmission and the 241 TC case with 4:1. That would put your crawl ratio at around 47:1 right? With my 6 speed, HD 231(2.72:1), and 4.88's Im at 60:1 crawl ratio. Even when you go to 5.13's your still a bit less at around 58:1 ratio.

So upgrading to a 241 is not necessarily an upgrade at all in reality. In fact depending on wheeling habits, transmission installed and axle ratio, it could be the opposite, unless you want to look at it from a $$$ standpoint. For me upgrading my 231 made ALOT more sense for me. The 241 would have been a complete waste. It would have made my wallet much lighter, and added unnecessary bulk and even a bit more weight in the process. For some people the 241 would make sense, for others not necessarily.

In fact for the price of 1 used 241TC I can have 2 built up 231's and plenty of money left over.
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