UCF Deep-Cover Skid Plate System - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 136 Old 08-29-2010, 09:17 AM
elephantrider
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it took us a few minutes to figure out how the brackets
go on as well. i also used hendrix's pics to see the
actual orientation of the brackets ( thanks ! )... once
we got it on, the quality and fit are obvious. love
matt's product.

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post #62 of 136 Old 12-06-2010, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Our "Deep-Cover" skid systems are a great choice for you undercarriage protection.

Please call if you have any questions about our products. We are here to help with any questions that may arise before the initial purchase as well as during the install. You, as potential customers, are the reason we are still here to provide the high-value components we are know for.

Thanks,

Matt Walton
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post #63 of 136 Old 12-07-2010, 05:23 PM
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I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this. A few questions though...
(2001 5-speed TJ)

With the no-lift skid, does the TC get moved upward at all? If so, I guess it just doesn't get moved up enough to hit the tub? If not, how do you gain that 1 & 1/2" additional ground clearance over stock?

With any of the skids and a manual (so no lopro) do you reuse the factory transmission mount? So basically unbolt the 4 bolts that stick through the factory skid and bolt them up to the new UCF skid?

I assume the 3/16" steel skid is as strong or stronger than the stock skid?

I don't do rocks, although we do have an excavation pit we ride (friend/legal) that has hard clay to flex on (enough to flop/roll) and get high centered on. I'm also not concerned with rust. I'm not sure the weight savings of the aluminum is vital for me (at an additional cost of course). Any additional reasons one should pick aluminum over steel?

I see you have Capital City Jeepers (out of Tally) linked on your blog. Cool! I've been with CCJ for a few years now.
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post #64 of 136 Old 12-07-2010, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaginaryFriend View Post
I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this. A few questions though...
(2001 5-speed TJ)

With the no-lift skid, does the TC get moved upward at all? If so, I guess it just doesn't get moved up enough to hit the tub? If not, how do you gain that 1 & 1/2" additional ground clearance over stock?

With any of the skids and a manual (so no lopro) do you reuse the factory transmission mount? So basically unbolt the 4 bolts that stick through the factory skid and bolt them up to the new UCF skid?

I assume the 3/16" steel skid is as strong or stronger than the stock skid?

I don't do rocks, although we do have an excavation pit we ride (friend/legal) that has hard clay to flex on (enough to flop/roll) and get high centered on. I'm also not concerned with rust. I'm not sure the weight savings of the aluminum is vital for me (at an additional cost of course). Any additional reasons one should pick aluminum over steel?

I see you have Capital City Jeepers (out of Tally) linked on your blog. Cool! I've been with CCJ for a few years now.

With the no-lift skid, does the TC get moved upward at all? Yes, it gets moved up about 1". If so, I guess it just doesn't get moved up enough to hit the tub? If not, how do you gain that 1 & 1/2" additional ground clearance over stock? It moves the t-case up to within 1/2" of the bottom of the tub. The other 1/2" of clearance is gained fram a lower-profile skid plate. In other words, the distance from the bottom of the skid to the transfer case is less.

With any of the skids and a manual (so no lopro) do you reuse the factory transmission mount? Yes, you reuse the factory mount. So basically unbolt the 4 bolts that stick through the factory skid and bolt them up to the new UCF skid? Yes, it is an easy swap.

I assume the 3/16" steel skid is as strong or stronger than the stock skid? The 3/16" steel skid will hold up better that the factory skid.

I don't do rocks, although we do have an excavation pit we ride (friend/legal) that has hard clay to flex on (enough to flop/roll) and get high centered on. I'm also not concerned with rust. I'm not sure the weight savings of the aluminum is vital for me (at an additional cost of course). Any additional reasons one should pick aluminum over steel? If you're not concerned with rust or weight you should choose the steel skid.

I see you have Capital City Jeepers (out of Tally) linked on your blog. Cool! I've been with CCJ for a few years now. I attended a ride with CCJ a while back. I try to do what I can to call attention to local clubs.

Thanks,

Matt Walton
http://undercoverfab.com
sales@undercoverfab.com
(334) 446-3821

We are currently offering free ground shipping to the lower 48!

Check us out on Facebook

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post #65 of 136 Old 12-07-2010, 06:08 PM
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Excellent. Thank you for all of the information.

Since I already have a SYE and adjustable CA's, I need to decide if I want a BL/MML or not. Then get the corresponding skid.
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post #66 of 136 Old 12-07-2010, 06:09 PM
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I might be buying the 1" deep skid from you in the near future...What is the lopro mount? how do i know if ill need one?
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post #67 of 136 Old 12-08-2010, 11:43 AM
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Any progress on a 2.5L variant?

-Paul
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Low Output 4 Cylinder Jeep Member #35

Keep moving forward. But keep an eye on history, for if you don't, you are doomed to repeat it.
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post #68 of 136 Old 12-08-2010, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erickpl View Post
Any progress on a 2.5L variant?
I've got some new things happening on that pretty soon...

Matt Walton
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post #69 of 136 Old 12-09-2010, 12:20 PM
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Any progress on a 2.5L variant?
i'm glad i'm not alone in wanting a tuck for a 2.5L!
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post #70 of 136 Old 12-13-2010, 03:27 PM
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Alright, so I think I'll do the BL and MML. I already have a SYE and Currie adj CA's. So should I go with the ultra-high clearance or standard? I guess I'm worried that the ultra-high clearance version really moves the TC way up there and my rear pinion will be pointing to the moon!
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post #71 of 136 Old 12-13-2010, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaginaryFriend View Post
Alright, so I think I'll do the BL and MML. I already have a SYE and Currie adj CA's. So should I go with the ultra-high clearance or standard? I guess I'm worried that the ultra-high clearance version really moves the TC way up there and my rear pinion will be pointing to the moon!
Get the Ultra. I have a JKS 1.25 BL, JKS MML, JKS CA's, and all the other junk. Took me all of 20 minutes to swap out the old for the UCF Ultra and didnt even have to adjust my pinion angle. Basically what it did was push my t-case back to where it was before the BL and maybe a 1/4" up further as I noticed my tranny shifter was higher up inside the cab. I feel like it basically cancelled out what I had done with the BL/MML getting it back to the stock location.

Heres a picture.
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post #72 of 136 Old 12-13-2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaginaryFriend View Post
Alright, so I think I'll do the BL and MML. I already have a SYE and Currie adj CA's. So should I go with the ultra-high clearance or standard? I guess I'm worried that the ultra-high clearance version really moves the TC way up there and my rear pinion will be pointing to the moon!
You will be fine with the UHC skid. Make sure you order the UCF low pro mount for your 5 Speed. You will love the added belly clearance.
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post #73 of 136 Old 12-13-2010, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
You will be fine with the UHC skid. Make sure you order the UCF low pro mount for your 5 Speed. You will love the added belly clearance.
Wait...huh? I thought they didn't have one for the '01 5-speed, only '03-06 auto's. Guess I missed something somewhere.

Even with a SYE and adjustable CA's you think the lopro mount is necessary? It looks like their site says it's not needed for an '01 and the UHC skid.
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post #74 of 136 Old 12-13-2010, 07:05 PM
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Ordered an all aluminum setup for mine today, can't wait.

04 Rubicon, 5.5" RE LA with Tri-link, 35" KM2, 4.88's
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post #75 of 136 Old 12-15-2010, 07:05 AM
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Well, I went ahead and ordered the 1/4" aluminum UHC skid system (TC and engine). I priced both the 3/16" steel vs 1/4" aluminum and after the discount and shipping, the aluminum system was only about $60-70 more. The aluminum is more expensive, but the shipping savings over steel makes up for much of the difference.

I suggest everyone price out the difference including shipping before ordering. You may be surprised at the outcome.
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