U-Joints used in CV Driveshaft for '04 Rubicon - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-01-2010, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
J_Ro
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Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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U-Joints used in CV Driveshaft for '04 Rubicon

I'm looking at replacing my current rear drive shaft with a Tom Wood's drive shaft for my Rubicon, but when I called today they are out of the parts needed for the model 1310 drive shafts for the next few weeks. They still have everything needed for the 1350 model, but based upon the description (and price) of the drive shaft and my normal usage (moderate but not extreme wheeling) the 1350 seems unnecessary.

Back to the reason for my post... If the Rubicon uses 1330 U-joints everywhere else in the rear drive train, wouldn't using 1310 U-Joints in the DS introduce a weakness in the system? Or do the U-Joints used in the CV joint experience far less stress than the other U-Joints?

Depending on the answer to that (and the fact that I don't feel like waiting several weeks for the new DS :P) I might just spring for the 1350 model.

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post #2 of 5 Old 06-01-2010, 09:24 PM
JeepnBlake
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post #3 of 5 Old 06-02-2010, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
J_Ro
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Kind of answers my question (from the denny's page: "While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one."), but I'm still wondering what the benefits of having a Rubicon drive shaft with 1310 joints is (I think Tom Wood's says that the 1310 model can go to a 35* angle before binding, while the 1350 can only go to 30*, but that is the only thing I can see as a benefit)

The U-Joint at the pinion is a 1330 so ideally a CV joint with 1330's would be optimal for my application, but I have the choice between a 1350 and a 1310.

My question for anyone else who wants to weigh in would be: is it worth it to go with the 1350's (overkill, but no longer makes the CV joint my weakest link) for the extra $130, or would be able to get by just fine with the 1310's? (Also to mention I could get 1350's right now as opposed to waiting at least 3 weeks for 1310's)
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post #4 of 5 Old 06-16-2010, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
J_Ro
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I'm updating this thread in case anyone ever searches for something similar and comes across it...

After talking with Josh at TW he explained that while the Rubicon does have a 1330 U-Joint at the differential side of the drive shaft, the 1330 U-Joint itself does not add a significant amount of strength in the CV Joint. Despite this is does cause a significant decrease in the max binding angle of the DS.

So considering that I am not a very hardcore wheeler at the moment I decided that the 1350's were overkill for my needs and did no warrant my spending the extra $130 for it.
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-22-2012, 07:06 AM
ninjzx998
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Thought I'd add my part numbers from purchase for front D/S rebuild for my 2004 Rubicon to help others as this info is not easily found from my experience with current p/n.

Precision- 2-4800 (2 for double cardon) old Part# was 354
Precision- 2-1569 ( 1330/1310 hybrid) old Part# was 355

And the hard to find part number
Neapco - 7-0079 greasable Center ball with yoke
Spicer 211179X greasable Center ball with yoke
Precision 608 greasable Center ball with yoke
Rockford 406 greasable Center ball with yoke

amazingly my local indie shop had all parts in Stock for a total of $121 with discount, list was $166. Not a single needle bearing in my centering assembly explaining the chirping sparrows along with a couple of snapped U joint caps

04 Rubicon 33s, ARB, 4" RC X
79 CJ7 D44 35 BFG MTs project
98 Discovery S/C 4.0 OME 2" lift 235/85/16 BFG ATs,
00 BMW M5, 95 Disco Project,88 Alfa Romeo Spider
95 Mustang vert 5.0 turbo 450hp
My 1979 cj-7 Build http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my-new-cj7-project-789688/
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