Which U-joint causes the "angry sparrows"?

sahara33's · 01-20-2008, 12:16 AM

Okay so for about 6 months now i've been getting the angry sparrows sound from the front of my jeep (i know i'll get flamed for not jumping on this sooner

). It doesn't happen "that" much and it goes away after i've been on the road for a few minutes and at higher speeds (>30 mph i'd say). It's definitely worse in the really cold weather after it sits out in the parking lot all day. The sound is just a really annoying chirping and there's no grinding or anything like that. anyways do you think it's the u-joints in the axle shafts, driveline, or is there no way to tell the difference based on the sound and symptoms I gave you? Whick problem occurs most often?

Is there anything i can look at visually to see what's going on (hopefully i wont have to take the axle shafts out to check out the problem)?

97casteeltj · 01-20-2008, 12:18 AM

my angry sparrows were caused by the frontshaft....the centerball joint that is on the cv yoke end (end that connects to the TC)....it had went bad.

edit: you really need to get it fixed asap....or it will could cause some serious damage if it completely fails.

bigchevyman24 · 01-20-2008, 12:23 AM

It's the cardan joint in your front driveshaft...you can saturate it with some WD40 or PB Blaster. Should take away the angry sparrows. But you should look into replacing it soon. Here's a writeup:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driveshaft/driveshaft-5.htm

97casteeltj · 01-20-2008, 12:27 AM

i heard that it could be sprayed, but i'm glad i went ahead and took mine apart, b/c it was already coming apart inside and it had only been making the sound for a few days, but then again every jeep is different.

97casteeltj · 01-20-2008, 12:30 AM

in the pics on Stu's site...the pic where he's showing the double cardan (centerball joint).... the top "ring" thing was snapped off inside and had rubbed the metal down to where the grease fittings are on his new one.

HighCountry · 01-20-2008, 05:53 AM

Save yourself a lot of $%^&* words and take then entire front shaft to a Driveline Shop and get them to replace all 3 joints and the Centering Ball Kit. You will thank yourself for that later!

I actually ordered a complete new front shaft assembly from Spicer/Dana and just swapped when mine started to die.

Bruce

parks31 · 01-20-2008, 11:22 AM

Had the same problem. Had to replace my rear u joint on the front driveshaft. Problem no more.

sahara33's · 01-20-2008, 11:57 AM

Okay i think i'll let the jeep sit out in the cold for a hour and try the wd-40 trick. if it is indeed the front driveshaft ill pull the shaft and take it to a driveline shop and let them fix it. I like stu's writeup but i dont think i want to spend all that money on special tools plus i dont have a vice or anything at home.

RckyMtnTJ · 01-22-2008, 04:49 PM

The "special tools" are only a ujoint tool, which I think is probably less than $40 at Harbour Freight.

You could also take the front end of the driveshaft off completely and bungee the rest up to the frame and go for a drive. WD40 will clean it out, but that doesn't mean its fixed. You need to replace it.

BILL G · 01-22-2008, 04:56 PM

The driveline shop in my area will replace everything for a little less than $40.

sahara33's · 01-22-2008, 05:13 PM

I got a 8mm wrench and socket and for the last 2 days i've been trying to get the stupid thing off! I'm sure the front driveshaft has never been removed since new (9 years ago) and the front bolts come off real easy but the back won't budge. i actually think i rounded off the head on one of the bolts and now i dont know what to do. Anyone got any suggestions? is 8mm the right size it seems a little loose on the bolts.

90SaharaJeep · 01-22-2008, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sahara33's

I got a 8mm wrench and socket and for the last 2 days i've been trying to get the stupid thing off! I'm sure the front driveshaft has never been removed since new (9 years ago) and the front bolts come off real easy but the back won't budge. i actually think i rounded off the head on one of the bolts and now i dont know what to do. Anyone got any suggestions? is 8mm the right size it seems a little loose on the bolts.

8mm is the right size. Try spraying it down to loosen it. I just did this very same thing this weekend.

97casteeltj · 01-22-2008, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sahara33's

I got a 8mm wrench and socket and for the last 2 days i've been trying to get the stupid thing off! I'm sure the front driveshaft has never been removed since new (9 years ago) and the front bolts come off real easy but the back won't budge. i actually think i rounded off the head on one of the bolts and now i dont know what to do. Anyone got any suggestions? is 8mm the right size it seems a little loose on the bolts.

i had a tough time getting my back bolts off also....i just sprayed the **** out of them with pb blaster and let them soak overnight.....it was still tough and i had also rounded the head off of one.....they're held in with locktight halfway down on the threads.....it sucks but just keep at it and i'm sure you'll get it done!!

GreenJip · 01-22-2008, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sahara33's

I got a 8mm wrench and socket and for the last 2 days i've been trying to get the stupid thing off! I'm sure the front driveshaft has never been removed since new (9 years ago) and the front bolts come off real easy but the back won't budge. i actually think i rounded off the head on one of the bolts and now i dont know what to do. Anyone got any suggestions? is 8mm the right size it seems a little loose on the bolts.

I lent my front shaft to a friend and we had the same problem getting the shaft loose at the transfer case end. We got 3 of 4 out and the fourth ended up rounding off. We had to weld a socket on the end of the bolt and use an allen wrench to back it out. The allen wrench was too long to clear the housing, so we cut that down too. Heres a pick. I couldn't believe we got it out.

He also said that my shaft was making noise when he used it. I tore it down to inspect the cv and it was ok, just needed some grease. I greased it up and put it back together. I havn't put it in yet, but it felt better after I greased it. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you can change the joints yourself. By the time you pay a shop to chage that stuff out and the mark up on their parts, you have more than doubled the cost of the tools you will need to do this job. Not to mention the knowlege gained from the experience. I encourage you to do the job yourself unless you are completely unsure about your ability. Good luck with your drive shaft.

RckyMtnTJ · 01-23-2008, 11:24 PM

The biggest reasons I usually suggest fixing it yourself is since you can buy the tool and do it for less than it will cost to have someone else do it, you will gain the experience and the tool to fix it on the trail yourself.

01-22-2008, 04:49 PM	#9
RckyMtnTJ Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Lethbridge, AB, Canada Posts: 778 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The "special tools" are only a ujoint tool, which I think is probably less than $40 at Harbour Freight. You could also take the front end of the driveshaft off completely and bungee the rest up to the frame and go for a drive. WD40 will clean it out, but that doesn't mean its fixed. You need to replace it. __________________ 98 TJ with some stuff

01-23-2008, 11:24 PM	#15
RckyMtnTJ Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Lethbridge, AB, Canada Posts: 778 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The biggest reasons I usually suggest fixing it yourself is since you can buy the tool and do it for less than it will cost to have someone else do it, you will gain the experience and the tool to fix it on the trail yourself. __________________ 98 TJ with some stuff