Truss a Dana 30?

mtngoht · 11-12-2007, 07:24 PM

Since I dumped a bunch of $$$ (Yeah, I know

) into my D30 (Grande 30 shafts,Ox,4.88's) Would it be beneficial to truss it? I'm throw'n on some 35's soon and I don't want to risk bending the tubes.

Anyone have any pics or info on trussing?

**bman9089** · 11-12-2007, 08:00 PM

Nothing is wrong with the D30. It's the D35 that gets a lot of crap.

Are you bolting a truss or welding one on?

**mferrari** · 11-12-2007, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bman9089

Nothing is wrong with the D30. It's the D35 that gets a lot of crap.

That all depends on the build. For 33s, yes a D30 is fine. 35s, it will be fine if you wheel smart. Bigger than 35s, you really should give some thought on upgrading (and I am not just talking about a rubi 44).

To the OP, if you can build one it would certainly not hurt.

**bman9089** · 11-12-2007, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mferrari

That all depends on the build. For 33s, yes a D30 is fine. 35s, it will be fine if you wheel smart. Bigger than 35s, you really should give some thought on upgrading (and I am not just talking about a rubi 44).

To the OP, if you can build one it would certainly not hurt.

Well, if it was a stock D30, I would have my worries with it on 35s. However, I would think that a Super30 would be enough to handle locked 35s easily.

I know you've had some breakage though mferrari. I remember seeing that carnage thread.

JeepNazi101 · 11-12-2007, 08:46 PM

I bent a D30 housing before i broke anything.

I would "claim" that i pushed and pushed and beat and beat on my 30, looking for a reason (oppurtunity) to REPLACE it.

When the wheeling season was over, stock shafts, u joints, 4.88, locker,trused, 36" Iroks, beadlocked (wheeled @7-10 psi)

I had bent steering, LCA brackets about to rip off of the tube, a broken locker, and a bent housing.

That was enough of a reason to replace it.

**mferrari** · 11-12-2007, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bman9089

Well, if it was a stock D30, I would have my worries with it on 35s. However, I would think that a Super30 would be enough to handle locked 35s easily.

I know you've had some breakage though mferrari. I remember seeing that carnage thread.

Part of my shaft braking was due to me being dumb and having the wheels cut, with one in the air, all while climbing a ledge...

A super30 will be less likely to snap a shaft, but it moves the weak link else where. It will still be strong enough for 35s as long as he wheels with his head.

McLovin · 11-12-2007, 09:55 PM

dana 30's do bend. Mine is bent bad enough that I can't run a lunch box locker upfront. I have also broke one shaft on it and several U-joints. Yet somehow my 35 has escaped unscathed LOL

NikVallens · 11-12-2007, 10:08 PM

TNT customs makes a D30 truss kit

**epeck87** · 03-09-2010, 01:24 AM

bringin back the dead... any trusses out there for the dana 30?

4xfiend · 03-09-2010, 02:05 AM

The post right above yours. TnT Customs.

**epeck87** · 03-09-2010, 05:37 AM

i dont like the tnt one. i prefer a truss that does not involve replacing axle brackets. the type of truss i am looking for should stop at the base of the right upper control arm mount and go across to the top of the diff. something simple and cheap

never monday · 03-09-2010, 06:59 PM

adding a truss to a LP30 is a waste

VanBCguy · 03-09-2010, 07:10 PM

Post #44, page 3 of Idaho-Jeep's build thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/

I say go for it if you think it needs it depending on what type of wheeling you do.

**Benderff** · 03-09-2010, 07:11 PM

Rustys makes a joke of a "truss" just like you described.

$25.00. You could make one for way less and it wouldn't say rustys on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by epeck87

i dont like the tnt one. i prefer a truss that does not involve replacing axle brackets. the type of truss i am looking for should stop at the base of the right upper control arm mount and go across to the top of the diff. something simple and cheap

**Unlimited04** · 03-09-2010, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benderff

Rustys makes a joke of a "truss" just like you described.

$25.00.

x2. I've got about $18.00 into my HP D30 truss so far...and that includes four 3/32" nickel electrodes for welding the steel truss to the cast iron housing the proper way...and its much better than the rusty's oil pan destroying plate thing.