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#1 | |
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Registered User
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trouble removing my shocks
im trying to remove my front shocks so i can replace them, but i cant get them off. i cant keep the stem from turning. i have the correct size open ended wrench, and i can unscrew the nut a little bit, but when it gets to the rusted part, the whole thing turns, stripping out the top of the stem. ive sprayed it for a few days with wd-40 and pb blaster. im having someone come over later 2day with a blow torch to warm it up, but im out of ideas? anyone have a lot of trouble with their shocks? what did you do?
thanks
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Cutting Wheel + New Bolts
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2004 Yellow TJ Sport
(purchased stock on 6.3.06) PICTURE 4.0L Auto • 35" Maxxis Bighorns • D30/D44 w 4.88 Gears • 2.5" OME LJ/XJ lift • JKS Trackbars • Brown Dog MML • 1" BL • Warn Engine Skid • Aussie Locker (FR) / Rubi Air Locker (REAR) • SYE/CV • Nth Adj Control Arms • Bestop Oversize Tire Carrier • PSC Rocker Knockers • ORO Swayloc • TNT Tube Fenders MIDSOUTH JEEP CLUB > Jeepers from TN, AR, MS, and KY |
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#3 |
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I took a cut off wheel and notched the shock shaft (I guess you would call it that) and then was able to hold it with a pair of vice grips. Might be able to hold it with vice grips without notching it too.
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1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport |
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#4 | |
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Do you plan on keeping or reselling your old/current shocks?
If not, your new shocks should have all new hardware, right? When your friend with a torch comes over, if the heat doesnt help it out, just cut it off completely ![]()
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#5 |
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provided your not re-using(selling) any of the old shock, tighten it down as much as possible, then hacksaw off the just above the nut. then when you attempt to remove the nut you never get to the rusted part of the thread because you have already cut that off. just an idea but i thought it could help.
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Bobby T...Out!!! |
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#6 |
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I had the same problem when I first swapped out my front shocks. Solution was to clamp a pair of vise-grips on the piston of the shock. As you turn the nut on top, the vise-grips will swing until they contact the shock tower. As soon as they do, if you have them on tight enough, you'll be able to get the nut the rest of the way off.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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wire brush or wire wheel the rusted threads above the nut and if you have any anti-sieze, brush a little of that on. It makes a big difference, allowing the the nut to glide over the rust. If youve ever taken a real stubborn nut off of rusted thread at the end you'll feel how hot it gets from plowing through all the rust
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#8 | |
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OME ZJ/LJ combo | SwayLOC | 1.25" BL | Nth TT | Riddler diff covers | EMP gastank skid | 33" MTRs | Warn M8000 | Cobra75 and much more... Riddler torture test video Oil Filter Study Useful Axle Info Thread |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_202.htm
Wish I bought these before I did mine. The access holes on top are there for a reason. I bet with these you'd be able to hold the nut tight enough to get it off past the rust. If you can loosen the nut a little, try to get a needle nose vice grip between the nut and the top of the bracket. Then you can grip the threads to stop the shaft from turning. I just cut mine off. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Before I removed the stock shocks on my LJ, I bought the shock nut removal tool from 4WDH.
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=15179 Worked perfectly. |
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#11 |
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I just took the bottom bolts off and then worked the whole shock back and forth until the top broke off. Works if you're not going to use them again, right?
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'98 TJ Sport, 4.0, 5 spd., 3.73's; 4" RC Series II Lift; 33's, Daily Driver. Life Member Hummer Recovery Team. Just Empty Every |
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#12 |
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Greetings from a lurking Jeeper with new shocks.
The best 60 bucks I ever spent was paid to the dealer to remove and replace my 150,000-mile OEM shocks. I provided the replacements and they provided the labor. No more cussing and swearing for me when the shaft just spins as I turn the nut, the mechanic put his super hi-speed 3/8" impact on the front top nuts (through the access hole) and in 3 seconds the impact speed outspun the rotating shaft and the nuts zipped right off. Even I was impressed at that move! Then he spent the next half hour drilling out and tapping the back left upper shock mount, against the gas tank, after breaking that bolt. I'll tell ya, I won't even hesitate anymore when they tell me 15 bucks per shock to R and R! I hope this helps someone... |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I don't see the big fuss over shocks and the hassle with them spinning. Just have someone hold the shock while you use a deep socket on the top bolt. Changing shocks is maybe a 5 minute job per shock.
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#14 | |
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#15 | |
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