Transfer linkage not reaching 4L - JeepForum.com
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  • 2 Post By TheBoogieman
  • 1 Post By mukluk
  • 1 Post By mukluk
  • 1 Post By SgtPsychosis
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-03-2017, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
SgtPsychosis
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Transfer linkage not reaching 4L

When I move the Transfer lever from 4H to 4L, I feel "springy resistance" as I reach where 4L SHOULD engage. When I release the lever, it moves directly into NEUTRAL. The transfer makes NO noises when I do this.
I have the transmission in NEUTRAL when I try to shift.
I have already adjusted the linkage underneath (loosened the trunion, put the selector in 4L, tightened the trunion).
I have tried engaging the transfer into 4L with the vehicle rolling under 5 mph.
Pepe has a 2" body lift, but has nothing else related to the suspension.
With the body lift, wouldn't I need a longer rod connecting the transfer selector lever to the actual shift mechanism on the transfer case?
PICTURE TIME! Everyone LOVES pictures, right? Tell me I'm right....

Okay, here we go....
I have the linkage between the Transfer selector lever and the actual transfer shifter disconnected for this.
PICTURE ONE Shows the transfer case shifter engaged in the 4H position.
PICTURE TWO Shows the transfer case shifter engaged in the NEUTRAL position
PICTURE THREE Shows how the linkage will reach the shifter, and I can actually connect the linkage into the hole in the transfer shifter.
PICTURE FOUR Shows the transfer case shifter engaged in the 4L position.
PICTURE FIVE Shows that with the transfer shifter engaged in 4L, not only is the linkage not long enough to reach the shifter, "THIS THING" (for lack of a better term, as I can't find an actual NAME for it) is actually in the way! Even if the linkage were long enough, "THIS THING" is physically in the way.

I am thinking that there MUST be an adapter out there that will resolve this issue. I know for a fact that there are other Jeep owners out there that have lifted their Jeeps 2 or 3 inches...sometimes even MORE! I will NOT be lifting it any further anytime in the near future (maybe, somewhere down the road I'll add another 2" suspension lift....maybe...), so I don't know if I need to invest in the $300 linkage adapter with the cable that I have seen folks recommending (can't think of the brand, but everyone loves it).

Any thoughts or ideas?

Tim

Attached Thumbnails
1. Transfer engaged in 4H.jpg   2. Transfer in NEUTRAL.jpg   3. Transfer in NEUTRAL - Annotated.jpg   4. Transfer engaged in 4L.jpg   5. Transfer engaged in 4L - Annotated.jpg  

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post #2 of 15 Old 09-03-2017, 12:28 PM
olysteve
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With a 2 inch bl you need a drop bracket to get the linkage to work right. I went with a cable set up from from novak. It shifts like butter every time now. Ran me about $160 if I remember correctly.

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post #3 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 12:29 AM
TheBoogieman
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You need one of these relocation brackets with the BL.
Link to buy the bracket.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/1...paign=shopping
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Why also would he need a rare as hen's teeth Dana 44 out of another TJ which will eventually lead to him swapping in a POS 8.8 because he can't find one?
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 01:21 AM
mukluk
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The "thing" pointed out in the original post is called the transfer case torque shaft, not that that piece of info is terribly helpful, but there it is.

Speaking of which, it would appear to me that either you have an incorrect torque shaft (as it doesn't look like the others I've seen), or at the very least you have it upside down.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
SgtPsychosis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
The "thing" pointed out in the original post is called the transfer case torque shaft, not that that piece of info is terribly helpful, but there it is.

Speaking of which, it would appear to me that either you have an incorrect torque shaft (as it doesn't look like the others I've seen), or at the very least you have it upside down.
1. That information IS terribly helpful. I make it a point to learn one new thing every day, and you have helped me reach that goal!

2. I was wondering if I disconnected both linkages from the black bracket and played with it a bit if 4L could be engaged. Your explanation that (ahem) somebody else (at a reputable national chain of vehicle maintainers that I will not name) is pushing me that direction!

Thanks!
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 01:54 PM
mukluk
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I just went out and put eyeballs on the torque shaft of both my Jeeps as well as the spare that I have laying around, I'm fairly certain now that your torque shaft isn't the correct one.

*Edit to add pic*
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 02:13 PM
mukluk
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Possibly the difference may be due to your having an auto versus the manuals that I'm used to, but I'm not seeing a different part number or reference to different parts being used between the two transmissions when I look in the parts manuals I have. Maybe somebody more experienced with this will chime in.

Regardless of the situation, some sort of drop bracket or cable replacement will be needed to deal with your body lift.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-05-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
SgtPsychosis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
Speaking of which, it would appear to me that either you have an incorrect torque shaft (as it doesn't look like the others I've seen), or at the very least you have it upside down.
The bracket mounted to the body is definitely newer than the rest of the rig. The torque shaft is also newer than the rest of the rig. However, the shift rod coming out of the transfer does not line up with the bracket on the torque shaft. As you can see in the pictures, I had not disconnected the rod coming out of the transfer from the bracket, and it was barely in there. I disconnected it, spun the bracket around---and the selector WILL NOT go into either hole. I am guessing that the tool jockeys that did this job attached the rod to the bracket, then mounted the rest of the assembly. While this does not make me happy, I am OK with it. It is in 2H for now, and if I need to go to 4H or 4L before the new bracket gets here I can do it manually. I have the rod secured away from the drive shaft....so for now, it is a waiting for parts game!

Thanks for your help!
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-07-2017, 12:11 PM
TJnBC
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I guess every jeep is different. I had a 2inch body lift on my old TJ (that I removed years after I bought). I did NOT need a bracket for it. Just simply adjusted the "saddle" on the rod ...it did take adjusting, checking, adjusting in small movements to get it right. Never had an issue...even when added a 4:1 Tcase . Used the stock linkage for years

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-08-2017, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
I guess every jeep is different. I had a 2inch body lift on my old TJ (that I removed years after I bought). I did NOT need a bracket for it. Just simply adjusted the "saddle" on the rod ...it did take adjusting, checking, adjusting in small movements to get it right. Never had an issue...even when added a 4:1 Tcase . Used the stock linkage for years
Show off.
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Why also would he need a rare as hen's teeth Dana 44 out of another TJ which will eventually lead to him swapping in a POS 8.8 because he can't find one?
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-08-2017, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Show off.
I think I just got lucky...some can get away without using a bracket or fancy linkage. Most will have to get one or the other to make work
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-08-2017, 04:45 PM
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1" MML&1"BL, no special linkage needed...
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-24-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
SgtPsychosis
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Okay, I have in hand a transfer case linkage pivot drop bracket. But for the life of me, I CANNOT figure out how to pull the transfer case torque shaft out of the existing OEM pivot bracket (attached to the tub)!

The new part is from Skyjacker, and the instructions start with "install the new Skyjacker transfer case linkage pivot drop bracket to the stock pivot bracket....", and it DOES NOT address how to remove the torque shaft!

Still, no harm, no foul. Couldn't shift into 4L this morning, still can't this afternoon! But how do I do this!

Tim
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-24-2017, 08:44 PM
mukluk
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The stock pivot bracket is bolted to the tub via four bolts from inside the footwell. Be forewarned, reinstalling the bracket and bolts is best done with two people.

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post #15 of 15 Old 09-25-2017, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtPsychosis View Post
But for the life of me, I CANNOT figure out how to pull the transfer case torque shaft out of the existing OEM pivot bracket (attached to the tub)!
Tim
The shaft is not captured by the bracket. It has a bronze ferrule that fits in the tub bracket and allows the shaft to rotate and swivel. Just pull on it.
Name:  IMAG0411_1.jpg
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Tub side of bracket (rubber boot removed)
Name:  IMAG0410_1.jpg
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