Transfer Case Weld Nuts - Write Up - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
bairy
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Transfer Case Weld Nuts - Write Up

So there has been many threads and pages of banter on Nutserts, quality, install tools, price, availability, tack weld etc...

I did not have much issue with spinning nutserts but the threads in mine were toasted. Take a look at the factory bolts and you can see what was left of the thread.


Of course before you remove those bolts, you remove the 4 transmission mounting nuts(13mm/ 1/2" I forget) then you must support the transmission and transfercase:


This is how bad the frame looked You need to clean between the skidplate and frame after wheeling and winter driving as all that shmutz is collecting between there and rotting away!


Might as well attack some of this too..


Time to get rid of those nutserts. I used an air chisel to knock off the bottom flange. Mine had some tack welds, but that just added 3 more seconds to rip them off. I also used the air chisel to knock off some of the rust scale on the frame and check the integrity.




Here is the hole left in the frame. I used a vacuum and tried to collect as much debris in the frame. Using the air chisel loosens up the scale on the inside too. Back part of the nutsert is still in the frame. With all the other scale up there, it is not going to bother anything.


Next I used a flap wheel to start cleaning up the area.


Switched up to a course wire wheel. BTW, I hate changing out attachments so I just buy more harbor freight grinders when they are on sale for 7.99


Here is my cheap solution. McMaster Carr 90596A033 1/2" Weld Nut. $4.70 for a bag of 10.


Fits perfectly in the opening in the frame


Then of course... WELD! I know my welds are not the greatest, but I know they won't fail before rust eats the rest of the frame. Welding upside down under a jeep is definitely more challenging. If you have a lift on the jeep or a lift in your garage it will be much easier.


After welding all of them in, I cleaned it up a little more, wiped it down with the lacquer thinner and threw a few coats of XO satin black rust paint from True Value ($3.69)


Knocking off all the rust scale and sealing it good will slow the process.


At first I did not like that the weld nuts were not flush with the frame, but I am glad they are not. I want air to get between the skid and frame just a little so the moisture can dry up and I can wash it out easily in the winter time.

I plan on pouring some paint/rust preventing solution down into the frame to help slow the cancer.

Finishing it off, I picked up some Macmasters 91253A718 flat head socket cap screws to replace the factory bolts. They have a matching taper to help locate the center skidplate.

oh yea.. Put the skid plate back on, use new bolts, lower the transmission support and replace the 4 nuts for the transmission and torque to spec.



2006 LJ Claytonized
1999 TJ stockish
1987 J20
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 11:56 AM
tangotag
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Nice write-up.
Any concerns with having to use a 5/16 allen wrench to remove rusted in place socket screws in the future?
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 11:59 AM
Jerry Bransford
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VERY nice writeup, I think we ought to add that to our FAQ! Well done.

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post #4 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
bairy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangotag View Post
Nice write-up.
Any concerns with having to use a 5/16 allen wrench to remove rusted in place socket screws in the future?
Yep, Anti-sieze. A crap load of it. I come from Upstate NY...We even use it for buttering our toast. What helps is filling in the allenhead with grease or rtv. A fully seated allen bit and an impact tool is very strong. Been doing that with my Clayton skid which is help on by ten thousand of those little flat head allen screws. Besides, they will not live a long life on there. As soon as I hit the lotto I will belly-up.

Thanks Jerry!

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post #5 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 12:30 PM
Jerry Bransford
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This has been added to our FAQ.

Getting Savvy...

When you have a choice, buy American.
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post #6 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 01:07 PM
roundlitefan
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Jesus, all that cancer on an '06? Remind me to not even drive my Jeep through Ohio! Nice write up btw.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 01:34 PM
timmytimm3
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I did something very similar but I took regular nuts, ground them round to fit in the holes and welded them in.

Nice job
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
bairy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundlitefan View Post
Jesus, all that cancer on an '06? Remind me to not even drive my Jeep through Ohio! Nice write up btw.
Nope. I just picked up a 99 with a blown 2.5 for 1K and swapped in a 4.0.

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post #9 of 14 Old 08-20-2010, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bairy View Post
Yep, Anti-sieze. A crap load of it. I come from Upstate NY...We even use it for buttering our toast. What helps is filling in the allenhead with grease or rtv. A fully seated allen bit and an impact tool is very strong. Been doing that with my Clayton skid which is help on by ten thousand of those little flat head allen screws. Besides, they will not live a long life on there. As soon as I hit the lotto I will belly-up.

Thanks Jerry!
I've been using that type of fastener on my BU for years with anti seize. Works for me...IMO
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-27-2015, 02:43 PM
Boaf32
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All,

I just replaced the NutSerts in my 98 Sahara. Installing them was not too bad, once I had the technique down. The hassle was how to start the top of the NutSerts "mushrooming" to snug to the frame. Here is what I did for what it is worth:

1. Drill out the inside of the threads with a 3/8 inch drill to remove the mushroom of the NutSert within the frame (where gloves the metal bits gets hot).
2. Use a chisel and BFH to remove the exposed NutSert (or a grinder). Don't forget to paint exposed area.

Now the fun:

3. Use Vise grips to hold the NutSert Flange tightly. To keep the Sert and Vise Grip from spinning when in position, use a C clamp on the frame to lock the Vise Grip in place so you can use both hands: one to hold the socket on straight, the other to tighten the bolt (see Photo).

Purchased my NutSert kit from Black Magic Brakes.

http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com. 87-02 NUTSERTS W/HARDWARE | 87-95 YJ and 97-02 TJ NutSert Replacement.

Hope this helps.

Boaf 32
Attached Thumbnails
NutSert 1.jpg   NutSert 2.jpg  
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-27-2015, 03:42 PM
rikkards
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I just welded them to the frame and then tightened them down

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post #12 of 14 Old 06-27-2015, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
I just welded them to the frame and then tightened them down


To Boaf32: you may want to visit the frame with a welder and some patches above your vice grips in the second pic before it ends up crumbling between your C clamp.

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post #13 of 14 Old 06-28-2015, 03:21 PM
Boaf32
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Thanks Rikkard, yep, I have a stick welder and will address it.

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post #14 of 14 Old 09-28-2015, 05:57 AM
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This topic shows the custom tool I used to bulge the three blind hole M10-1.5 rivet nuts used to retain the transfer case skid plate.
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