[RockRunner85]

Originally Posted by jeeplj

I have resolved myself to the fact that 6" of lift has altered the geometry enough to cause this problem. I have felt all along that there is a problem with the caster. But after taking it in for an alignment, you would assume that the caster is OK. Apparently not. If I am reading the printout from the shop correctly, it states that the caster should be between 6.0 and 8.0 degrees. Mine is -1.2 on the left and -1.0 on the right. Camber should be between -0.9 and 0.4. Mine is at -1.1 on both sides. The printout also talks about "cross caster" and "cross camber." I have no idea what that means but it shows that I am within the specified range. The steering wheel does return to center, but the sharper the turn, the less eager it is to re-center.

How does that thing even drive down the road without wandering all over. You need to fix your caster. Shorten the front uppers, lengthen the lowers, or do a combination. Make sure you watch for clearance with the steering components on the front. Check the pinion angle as well.

What I would do is buy a magnetic angle finder if you do not have one already. Position it on the axle diff housing parallel with the driveshaft or perpendicular to the axle shafts. Read the degree and compare it to the measurement from your alignment. Using the difference you can adjust your control arms and determine your caster. Shoot for the 5 range.

Cross caster is the difference between the pass and driver caster measurements. You need this to compensate for the crown in the road. It is set by the way the axle brackets are welded on. If you make the control arms identical in length you will be set.

Camber is not going to be adjustable without offset balljoints and it is probably correct anyway as there is some margin of error with how the alignment sensors are clamped on the wheels.

[Older Fossil]

Originally Posted by RockRunner85

How does that thing even drive down the road without wandering all over. You need to fix your caster. Shorten the front uppers, lengthen the lowers, or do a combination. Make sure you watch for clearance with the steering components on the front. Check the pinion angle as well.

I agree! With your caster going into the negative range, the front end could be having problems tracking straight. See if you can get your caster closer to +4. But watch for front DS vibes. If you get vibes, back off the caster until they are totally gone. With a lifted Jeep, caster and DS pinion angle are a compromise.

[Jerry Bransford]

Yep you've got a caster issue. But though the factory specified caster range is 6 to 8 degrees, 7 being optimal, don't try to get the caster angle all the way back up to that with your suspension lift. Doing so would likely cause front driveshaft vibrations. Your caster goal should be 4.5 to 5.5 degrees with 5 to 5.5 being pretty optimal for your lift height and tire size.

[jeeplj]

Spent some time on the phone with the shop today and discussed the caster. I'll probably get some offset ball joints. That, along with rotating the axle should get me where I need to be without the driveline vibes. The good news is that the shop said they would cover the labor on the ball joints and realignment so I'll probably take them up on that. As I said several posts ago, I am also considering switching to manual hubs. If I do that, then I would only have to live with driveline vibes when I'm off-road, which would be tolerable.

Thanks to everyone who posted. I think we can end this one now.

-Wes

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by jeeplj

I'll probably get some offset ball joints.

Why? While those would have a very minor effect on caster angle, they are primarily meant to adjust the camber angle. While your camber angle is very slightly out of spec, it is your caster that is the primary problem.

[jeeplj]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Why? While those would have a very minor effect on caster angle, they are primarily meant to adjust the camber angle. While your camber angle is very slightly out of spec, it is your caster that is the primary problem.

They told me they could get 2 - 3 degrees of caster change with them. Is that not true?

[RockRunner85]

Originally Posted by jeeplj

They told me they could get 2 - 3 degrees of caster change with them. Is that not true?

You don't need offset ball joints. Thats going to effect camber. You need to change caster which is the rotation of the axle. All it takes is adjusting your control arms.

Like I said before since you know the caster you have know you can easily use an angle finder and adjust this yourself.

With only adjusting the control arms you can get your caster into the accpetable range. I wouldn't go buying balljoints when you don't need them. Seems like they want you to buy the ball joints so they can make a profit since they offered free labor.

[Unlimited Rubi]

Man just buy a trailer

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by RockRunner85

You don't need offset ball joints. Thats going to effect camber.

The pin on the balljoint is offset from centerline. Depending on how you orient it in the hole, you can affect caster only, camber only or a combination thereof.

[Flatbroke]

Not sure what the Problem is, but saw where you posted maybe it was the 6inch lift. I flat tow mine behind my 5th wheel and also have a 6inch lift with no steering problems. I did however loose a wheel on the rear.

[RockRunner85]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

The pin on the balljoint is offset from centerline. Depending on how you orient it in the hole, you can affect caster only, camber only or a combination thereof.

That makes sense. I was just trying to state that with properly setting up the control arm length he shouldn't need offset ball joints.

[redluve1]

Is your passenger side sway disconnect bent or is it the picture?