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Unread 07-24-2008, 10:40 PM   #151
Tommy R
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Well, I did a bit of work on the steering tonight. Drilled and reamed the knuckles for the larger tie rod ends and cut the tie rod to length. This is going to be a bigger project than I thought. The larger diameter tubing is really getting into the spring bucket/steering stablizer/sway bar mount worse than I'd imagined.

Anyway, here's some pics of where it sits tonight...



Driver side:


Passenger side:


To get this large tubing to clear, there's going to be a lot of fab work in that spring perch area...


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Unread 07-28-2008, 11:29 PM   #152
Tommy R
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Well, I did some clearancing tonight to see what it's going to take to get this 1.5" DOM to clear everything. It took a lot of grinding, but things looked good.....until.....

Well, first here's how it looked pointed straight after clearancing:


Here it is at full driver. I had to remove the sway bar mount and trim the spring perch a bit, but even though it looks close, there's no contact:




Here's the passenger side at full lock. The tie rod touches the axle, but just barely and nearly simultaneously when the steering stop hits. I may do a bit more clearancing anyway. Snaking a sway bar mount in there will be tight for sure. Also, the drag link TRE clearance will be tight near the axle (when turned driver), but I think it'll fit:


Here's a close-up of what I had to do to get clearance:


So there I was feeling pretty good about things. The track bar doesn't need to be relocated. I'll just need to get a bit creative with the sway bar endlinks. I even had about an 1/8" of clearance at the diff cover. And then I saw this picture...


And I realized I didn't finish adjusting the caster on the upper control arms the other night so the axle will be rotating forward a bit. It's not as dramatic as it looks in the pic because the other end of the upper is also loose, but I nonetheless may run into some clearance issues with the tie rod and diff cover at full lock. I'll grind a groove into the diff cover if I need to!

Tommy
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Last edited by Tommy R; 08-16-2008 at 01:56 PM..
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Unread 07-30-2008, 11:12 PM   #153
Tommy R
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UGH!

I got the pitman arm reamed, the tie rod and drag link all welded up, and then began final test fitting before removing for paint. And it was then that I realized I couldn't thread in my LH threaded tie rod end on the tie rod. It only went 3/4" in. WTH? It had threaded in fine before welding. I tried the other LH threaded tie rod and the same thing! Both RH threaded tie rods went in without issue. Something in the LH threaded inserts was affected by the welding because each has visible bungs about 3/4" in.

So now I'll try to locate a tap locally to have them cleaned out. I'm still waiting on the jam nuts anyway so I couldn't do final assembly yet, regardless. I also ordered some sway bar endlink mounts from Rusty's. They'll likely have to be modified a bit, but I think they'll make getting a sway bar installed a bit easier.



I'd have pics of tonight's progress, but I was in a sour mood so maybe I'll take some tomorrow....

Tommy
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Unread 07-31-2008, 06:33 AM   #154
tweba99
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It is always wise to have you joints/TRE's threaded in all the way while welding to prevent your problem and when you get through welding the bung in, it is also wise to thread it in and out of the bung while it is cooling down.
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Unread 07-31-2008, 07:20 AM   #155
Tommy R
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Well, yeah... I've never had an issue before, though. Of course, that's not always practical to do, but I could've done it here. Nonetheless, the RH parts are fine, it's only the LH parts that are jacked up. Something screwy happened. I'll hopefully get them tapped and cleaned up today and do final test assembly tonight...

Tommy
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Unread 07-31-2008, 08:16 AM   #156
tweba99
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It only takes 1 time for it to get screwed up. Oh well, live and learn, right?
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Unread 07-31-2008, 08:22 AM   #157
Tommy R
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You're right about that. I still fail to see *how* this happened. It's a noticeable bung in the threads that had to appear after the welding. Granted, the bung is about inline with where the weld was applied, but I still find this really odd. Oh well, hopefully it'll get taken care of today.

Tommy
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Unread 07-31-2008, 10:25 AM   #158
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Also i don't see how the stretch effects this steering setup? It shouldn't have any effect life the old setup.
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Unread 07-31-2008, 10:29 AM   #159
Tommy R
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You're right and I should've worded things better. It was more of an issue with the stock steering because the draglink interfered with the axle assembly since the axle moved forward, but the pitman arm obviously didn't. With the new setup there doesn't appear to be a drag link clearance issue, just the tie rod which has now been clearanced.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Tommy
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Unread 08-04-2008, 11:05 PM   #160
Tommy R
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I owe Blaine a debt of gratitude. His tap arrived today and I cleaned up the bunged up inserts with ease! Thanks again!!

So I'm still waiting on jam nuts, tie rod stablizing washers from JCR Offroad, and still need to fab up the sway bar mounts, but things are getting close. I'll disassemble for paint soon. Looks like I may have some bumpsteer issues. I'll cross that bridge when I get there, though.




At full driver:




Doesn't hit the diff cover:


At full passenger:


Obviously tight clearance to mount a sway bar bracket, but I've got an idea for that. At full passenger the tie rod actually contacts the spring a fraction before the steering stop hits. So I may limit the steering throw if it's an issue:


More updates soon, but maybe not before the weekend...

Tommy
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Unread 08-05-2008, 06:03 AM   #161
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What are these tie-rod stabilizer washers that you are referring too?
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Unread 08-05-2008, 07:00 AM   #162
Tommy R
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Here you go. They are basically spacers to put between the tie rod ends and knuckles to prevent the tie rod from rotating as the drag link pushes down on one side of the tie rod.

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Unread 08-05-2008, 08:52 AM   #163
tweba99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Here you go. They are basically spacers to put between the tie rod ends and knuckles to prevent the tie rod from rotating as the drag link pushes down on one side of the tie rod.

Yeah, i went to look at the site after you mentioned it and I found them. I ordered some. I was having a problem that after I take a turn, I would have to yank the wheel back in the opposite direction (after I have taken the turn) to get the steering wheel back straight and that is because whenever you take a turn, it twists up the tie-rod/drag link Tie rods. Those should fix my problem.
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Unread 08-11-2008, 09:06 PM   #164
Tommy R
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tweba, did you get your shims in? It's been about a week and a half since I ordered mine and I tried to call JCR again today and their line is disconnected! I don't know if I can cancel the order, but I placed an order for the jam nuts with Spidertrax since they had them in stock. I'll make some shims if necessary.

Tommy
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Unread 08-11-2008, 10:06 PM   #165
Tommy R
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Still waiting on my jam nuts so I decided to make a little progress on the sway bar mounts. The clearance between the axle mounting area, the spring, and the tie rod is very, very tight. One thing that I decided would help me is to space the mount farther to the outside, closer to the wheel, basically. So I cut the long sway bar mounts I got from Rusty's, doubled up the piece I cut, and welded it to the mount with a couple rossette welds and some stitch welds.

Here's the finished product minus paint:




Here's an approximate location for it. I'll have to grind some clearance for the tie rod for sure:


Here you can get a rough idea of how doubling up the material thickness buys me a little room to get the mount away from the spring:


Tomorrow I hope to finish welding/grinding and maybe get some paint on the parts.

Tommy
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